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Halfinator Build - For sale - 28/2

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davey t View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davey t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 12:13pm
Just seems silly to go to all that effort then put 15W of power into it. You could use more power and make the speaker louder, or smaller... 

Just add a 12-28V step up and a switch to turn it on. If you want more power, then step up to 28V say. If you don't, the 12V will run through the boost anyways via the diode and inductor. At least you have the option to blast it. 

At low volume, the minidsp is probably pulling most of your quiescent current and doesn't even have limiters. If you have the confidence then the freedsp board is much better. 
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roopes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roopes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 12:48pm
Originally posted by lutkeveld lutkeveld wrote:

I agree with Davey, especially for the Halfinator. A lot of people don't need the ~50 hours playtime. A high efficiency DC-DC converter (12->36V) feeding a TPA3251D2 with active filters (steep SSF and XO) would be perfect. The reason most people don't do it is added cost, power consumption and complexity. The Halfinator would be a compact monster in that setup though....



Im really interested as long as it can last about 1 day (8-12h) at decent volume i would love the extra punch. Is there some kind of easy and tested way to go? 

Like putting in a dc converter to 12 -> 24V and using a TK2050 (or something similar) and done? or is there much more work to it? Do i need to change anything else?

I have the opportunity to do the changes now, a lot more work when i seal the halfinator up

Edited by roopes - 25 January 2016 at 12:50pm
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lutkeveld View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 1:47pm
Your battery probably cant even deliver the needed current. To support 12h playtime at medium to high power you'd need 50 to 100Wh.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shortrope Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 2:21pm
I'm note sure you're right.
I'll regularly get 25-30hrs at high volume without the Solar off 12v 15ah SLA.
My Tinnitus is coming along nicely!!
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roopes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roopes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 2:32pm
So what's the most efficient way to upgrade a halfinator? Just to build a boominator i guess but if i really want the small form factor of a halfinator? 

Dual maxamp and miniDSP, 24 volt and more powerfull amp, what's the way to go?
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lutkeveld View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 3:41pm
Shortrope, not on 24v.

Roopes, my preferred upgrades would be (in this order): piezo -> horn tweeter, SLA ->lithium, 24v upgrade, active filtering (op amp or DSP),
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slaz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2016 at 5:38pm
As I've said a few times in here before - got very pleasing results from ST508 (sure module) + 6S LiPo battery. Run time is about 5-6 hours with a 5Ah Lipo (thats pushing the amp pretty hard and yielding something like 50+50W typical. 12V up-converter can also work well (I sometimes use a 120W car laptop adapter which goes up to 24V). Watch out for switch-on inrush current though - use high-ish rated fuses if you think necessary.

I like to use external battery packs (or make a compartment with access flap ) - means you can use extra battery packs to extend run-time, and (in the case of going the DC-DC up-converter route) you have the option of using car or leisure batteries to add big run-times.
Don't forget - if using LiPo or Li-on - to provide for balance charging - so easier to charge outside the speaker box.






REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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davey t View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davey t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2016 at 10:40am
6s pack and a RC cell balancing charger is a pretty good route to take. Many of those chargers take a 12V input feed so you can top up with an SLA if you are out for a long time. 

Or just take two SLAs and put them in series. Charge them separately
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bitSmasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bitSmasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2016 at 10:40pm
^ i thank you for a great idea, but curse you for adding another few hundred dollars of gear to my "ultimate amp box" wish list
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roopes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roopes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 February 2016 at 6:47pm


Today i tested my maxamp but it sounded like crap, i think it's because of the bad soldering, but is the soldering done right? tested with a bluetooth amp and speakers sounded fine. 

Red -> red
Yellow -> white
Black -> bare cable/no color

Edited by roopes - 06 February 2016 at 8:41am
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roopes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roopes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2016 at 12:08pm
How do I calculate the current draw from an amplifier? I know its hard to tell exactly how much but is there some kind of general formula to use?
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lutkeveld View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2016 at 1:42pm
Did you already fix your MaxAmp problem?
Good rule of thumb for playtime with a MaxAmp on a 12v lead acid battery in hours is:
Maximum volume: Ah*2
Normal volume: Ah * 8


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