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TH-18 build

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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2018 at 3:07pm
So I'm working on the new boxes, and I thought this also was the good oppertunity to paint the TH-18 cabs differently. I'm planning on spraying the warnex instead of doing it with a roller.

I see a lot of those airles spraygun things, and I was wodering if this would work with warnex.
Or that I just buy a compressor with a spraying gun. The goal is to get the nice pro splatter finish.
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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2018 at 1:52pm
And another update LOL

The current top cabinets will be replaced with new ones.
With larger internal volume, and more port area.
Also a beefier low/mid driver (probably MB12N405), high driver probably a ND950 (1.4) or maybe a BMS coax, on a HF950 horn.

They will be weighing more, but I hope to keep it under 27 Kg's.
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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 February 2018 at 3:00pm
Update: The current set-up is likely to be powered by litemod modules (with DSP ofcourse).
So the current amprack is up for sale.
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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 January 2018 at 9:12am
For the DE800 I think it is wise to use a capacitor to protect it from DC-voltage (if it happens).
Are there any specific types used for this application?
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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 5:00pm
18sw115-4
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Russellsoundsolution View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russellsoundsolution Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 2:43pm
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Qsc pl380 powering them 4 Ohm.
3 weeks and then I can use them to their full potential.


What drivers did you use? 


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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 11:58am
Qsc pl380 powering them 4 Ohm.
3 weeks and then I can use them to their full potential.
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Russellsoundsolution View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russellsoundsolution Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 10:47am
Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

Maybe the only thing I would have done different, is the paint job.
Now I did it with a roller, but spraying gives a more professional finish.


Happy with the output? -How much power ya throwing at them? 

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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
Young Croc


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2018 at 9:03am
Maybe the only thing I would have done different, is the paint job.
Now I did it with a roller, but spraying gives a more professional finish.
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Russellsoundsolution View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russellsoundsolution Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 January 2018 at 10:23pm
Heyo! First of all LOVE the build!
  
About to start a build of basically the same boxes -I'm going with the Faital Pro 18HW1070 drivers... Just a set of 2 to start.

Overall are you happy with the results? I'm doing this build to replace 2 qsc KW181 as I was not happy with the overall output.  I have 2 QSC KW153 for tops now and the 181 just did not keep up.

 I plan on driving these with a QSC PLD 4.5 running it 2 channels @ 4ohm  which will give me my 1600w continuous and a 2400w peak 100hz low pass rolling it off around 36-38 or so. 

Any advice or input as I venture into this? I already have the drivers and a buddy is going to have the wood cuts done on a CNC machine. 

http://www.faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=201070138

https://www.qsc.com/live-sound/products/power-amplifiers/pld-series/pld45/





Edited by Russellsoundsolution - 12 January 2018 at 10:24pm
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MarjanM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarjanM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2017 at 7:44pm
Yeah, it never cures 100%, so the foam can be easily removed. We dot the foam from behind with superglue for the subs after we glue is with spray77. That keeps it in place for long time.
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713
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smitske96 View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitske96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2017 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by markie markie wrote:

To fit foam to the grills you need 3Ms "Scotchweld 77".  Cut the foam slightly oversize. Then spray the rear of the grill NOT the foam. Then press foam in place.  and trim excess.

DON'T use any other spray adhesive
. Most produce a "spiders web" effect across the perforations which will be visible when the foam is fitted. The scotchweld 77 doesn't.

At the moment I used Bison glue, looks allot like the scotchweld stuff. 
I applied the same as you said, but still keeps coming lose when I turn it up a little.

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