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THAM 12 - 12mm plywood?

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XentriK Sound View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 May 2017 at 2:39pm
Finally got round to buying plywood for the tham 12's and couldn't find any 15mm so went for 12mm... don't suppose anyone's previously done the same and could give me pointers on how to modify the plans to get it to work?

*It's only for a 12v battery powered system so won't be having anything heavy stacked ontop*

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote cookie-dj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2017 at 8:45pm
I have a pair of Tham 12 and I would seriously suggest at least 15mm, these things can move some air for their size and a heavier and more substantial material would be preferred.
Maybe you could look at adding further bracing where you can if 12mm is a must.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bitSmasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:04pm
Lots of bracing, especially around the throat/mouth
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shortrope Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:38am
The hardest part about building with 12mm is the joints.
I've made non speaker stuff with it and found using a 3.5mm screw with the right size pilot was ok.
You need to be very accurate in getting your screw in the very centre of the ply edge, it's very easy to split or bulge the ply.
Battened joints on the exterior edges would be a good call too.
Unless of course you rebate everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mini-mad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 1:52pm
Why not add some sort of beading or small 5mm x 5mm length of timber and use it to make batons along all the mouth and around as much as you can to increase surface area around joints and double all other bracing... bass cabs will "pulse" if not braced or made of to thinner wood.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XentriK Sound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 2:34pm
Thanks for all of your replies :) 

I'm going to put double the bracing throughout. Perhaps one 1/3 of the width and the other 2/3? Or should i just put them up against each other? (sorry if that doesn't make sense, im not sure how to explain it any other way) 

I was thinking of putting small L shaped brackets throughout but batons would be much more effective. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 2:48pm
Yes, do 2 braces per horn section spaced evenly as you say. Corner reflectors are a good idea too, they add strength in the corners of the box and smooth out the horn path. Use a pencil and compass off the edge of the nearest panel to work out where and how big to make them, you want to block off excess space in the corner while maintaining continuous expansion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote magnus h Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2017 at 9:59pm
XentriK Sound, which driver are you planning to use?
I am thinking about doing a lightweight  12 mm version like you, and with a neodymium driver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote XentriK Sound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 2:03pm
Oberton 12b450 
Devon Based Soundsystem.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mobiele eenheid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 6:40pm
I once made a similar cabinet out of 12 mm for 12V and up to a couple hundred Watts I wouldn't mind it at all. Once you crank it much over 500 W I would prefer using 15 mm. If you use bracing like the pic below, I would keep it as it is (personally would skip the holes in the bracing):

 

Best regards Johan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cookie-dj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 7:29pm
If you use PD drivers don't do what I did with the PD123C01 driver in mine. Allow an extra 3mm as its VERY tight in there. Literally had no space either side of mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SouthwestCNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 3:22pm
To make the area of each segment the same don't you need to make the box thinner to account for the thinner ply? bit tricky to go thinner as very tight already with the tham12.

Or I suppose you are just upscaling the throat slightly so the change wont be massive but that does require you to centre the 12mm parts over where there is 15mm in the plans for consistent scaling.


Edited by SouthwestCNC - 25 May 2017 at 3:29pm
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