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Reverse Polarity?

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mitchiemasha View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mitchiemasha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2017 at 9:59pm
I will add... I did say it to the manager at the venue i work at, last time i had a winge. 

"unless i get Ned down and do some proper testing it will never be right, we're just messing about in the dark"

"Even then it still won't be right, speaker position is wrong, room is wrong, the equipment installed won't allow it to be made right (or even improved). There are a few obvious changes that could be made but it's just embarrassing... I'm always waffling on on forums... and the quality of the sound does not reference my knowledge"

What is one to do? you should of seen the sub the owners bought until i put mine in, 15" £150... What! seriously? it rattled itself to bits. Anyone with half a brain would know that wasn't going to do, the cheapest in the store, many pounds lower than the rest, we all know the wine annolgy... Sorry... Rant over, lol!!!!!!
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mitchiemasha View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mitchiemasha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2017 at 10:39pm
I know it's a lot already but... Just to be extra clear. When he says this. 

"Listening to a single sine wave will not reveal this as is proven time and again by attendants of my seminar because we're not exposed to neighboring frequencies. Should you decide to align by ear then at least use a signal that exposes you to all frequencies of interest like Michael Bink Knowles Audio Test's warbles."

The reason the neighbouring frequencies are important is, an incorrect CYCLE alignment will be exposed by the lower or higher frequency not aligning. However, if the cycle alignment was correct and you used the sine wave method, the neighbouring frequencies will be intime. You'd have the same result as the other method. If your speakers are close together one isn't going to add a delay time big enough to hit the 1st cycle inphase, out of time, never mind the 2nd. The main issue we'd hit is more like 50/50 over the polarity choice.

When he says

"As long as both speakers are producing the same signal there are an infinite amount of possibilities for being in phase (either with or without polarity inversion) and not on time. Whereas there's only one possible outcome where both speakers are in phase and on time"

He is seriously exaggerating the "infinite amount of possibilities" to suit his argument. Although he is correct, no one would move to those "infinite" possibilities of alignment. The 'tape measure and basic understanding of sound' will give you a ball park figure with in the range of 1 cycle. You'd only get 1 cancellation to set it to before moving out of that range... Well 2 if you include getting the polarity wrong.

On concert systems, line arrays, it 's a different story but we're talking about simple stacks. The wave length of the frequency is too long to warrant an engineer putting in the wrong time delay, to land in the next cycle, where the next null would be.

I hope that makes sense. It's took a lot of thought to try express it.

Just to be double clear... If using the sine wave method, if you are on 0 cycle and have a null with incorrect polarity, when you flip polarity you will be on

"Whereas there's only one possible outcome where both speakers are in phase and on time"

I hope that helps. Any further discussion is welcomed. I appreciate the graphs, thank you.




Edited by mitchiemasha - 18 October 2017 at 11:10pm
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AJ113 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ113 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2017 at 11:08pm
So these are my options:

1 Move the reflex bins back a bit and hope for the best.
2 Measure the length of the B400 horns and movr the reflex bins back by that amount
3 Set up a centrecluster with the reflex bins in the middle so that they form a time-delayed arc
4 Reverse the polarity on the B400s (After all, this is what the manual instructs)
5 Do nothing

To further confound the issue, The B400s are not only folded horns but they have rear-facing ports. What does make them? Bass reflex folded horn bandpass cabs? And does this fact change anything that has been discussed?

I still can't work out why the manufacturers would advise to switch polarity when that doesn't affect the time domain, which  - as I understand it - is the main issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2017 at 5:13am
Option 6. Don't use the reflex and horns together. It's always best to not mix different types of subs and now you know why.

The ports on the B400s may have just been a cheeky way of getting a little more lowend out of them.. or perhaps a way to cool the drivers a little better, but in both cases it's doubtful there would be enough of a difference over sealed chambers to justify the increased risk of destroying the drivers by driving them below tuning. That right there is another reason not to run these from the same output as the reflex bins, they may work fine at moderate power levels but at war volume you may just destroy the drivers if you feed them a 40hz tone.


Edited by Conanski - 19 October 2017 at 5:17am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ113 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2017 at 8:08am
Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

That right there is another reason not to run these from the same output as the reflex bins, they may work fine at moderate power levels but at war volume you may just destroy the drivers if you feed them a 40hz tone.
I would have thought it would be the other way around. I.e. since they are allegedly not responsive below 60Hz, combining them with boxes that can handle frequencies below 60HZ is going to take some of the heat off them.

Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

Option 6. Don't use the reflex and horns together.
That's not an option, it's going to happen.
Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

It's always best to not mix different types of subs and now you know why.
Well no, not really. I won't know either way until I actually try it. I mean to be fair my question was not whether to go ahead or not, but how best to deal with the manufacturer's recommendation. The manufacturers themselves don't say "don't do it" so I don't see why it shouldn't at least be tried.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mitchiemasha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2017 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by AJ113 AJ113 wrote:

Well no, not really. I won't know either way until I actually try it. I mean to be fair my question was not whether to go ahead or not, but how best to deal with the manufacturer's recommendation. The manufacturers themselves don't say "don't do it" so I don't see why it shouldn't at least be tried.


What ever you do. To you it will sound Ok. But it will be wrong. It's impossible to do an A/B comparison to know which actually sounds better but you will believe and convince your self of such!

Personally i'd of simply done as the manual said. Flip the polarity. Then with each passing week, as i learned i would of tried new things correcting for my (in this case your) mistakes. Don't be that fool that 'thinks' it right.

I've been forced my life to run a mismash of systems but i never once pretended to myself. You're not going to miraculously fall onto a really good match up or be able to correct all it's errors. The compromises at the end of the day are yours to make.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ113 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2017 at 1:46am
Originally posted by mitchiemasha mitchiemasha wrote:

...To you it will sound Ok...
If it sounds ok it's not 'wrong'. It's only wrong when it doesn't sound ok. I trust my own judgement in that respect.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mitchiemasha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2017 at 2:26pm
Originally posted by AJ113 AJ113 wrote:

Originally posted by mitchiemasha mitchiemasha wrote:

...To you it will sound Ok...
If it sounds ok it's not 'wrong'. It's only wrong when it doesn't sound ok. I trust my own judgement in that respect.


I was worried that you would think that way... Although it's way to hard for me to explain why everything about what just wrote IS wrong.

The main problem is you have no way of knowing if it's the best it can be. It's impossible to A/B. Perhaps 1 day you'll understand.

If it sounds OK it'll do... but it is wrong! Some of us ain't happy with it'll do. I was always never happy with the sound, even when everyone else loved it. I have a friend who thinks like you! It's took me many years to convince him of how bad he did things. He's slowly starting to learn. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2017 at 3:28pm
Originally posted by AJ113 AJ113 wrote:

Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

That right there is another reason not to run these from the same output as the reflex bins, they may work fine at moderate power levels but at war volume you may just destroy the drivers if you feed them a 40hz tone.
I would have thought it would be the other way around. I.e. since they are allegedly not responsive below 60Hz, combining them with boxes that can handle frequencies below 60HZ is going to take some of the heat off them.


OK here is another fact of loudspeakers you don't seem to understand. Every speaker system type besides a sealed box is designed with a lower tuning frequency, that is the lowest frequency the system can handle at any significant power level. Below tuning the box no longer controls the driver and it acts as if in free air, so it's power handling is greatly reduced.. probably to something like 50-100w. So if you apply a 40hz signal at full power to a speaker with a 60hz tuning you will smash the drivers voice coil into the backplate and destroy it. For this reason you only have 2 choices, run the reflex and horns at different frequencies or limit all of them to 60hz and above if only using 1 sub passband.




Edited by Conanski - 21 October 2017 at 3:32pm
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AJ113 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ113 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2017 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by mitchiemasha mitchiemasha wrote:

...The main problem is you have no way of knowing if it's the best it can be...It's impossible to A/B.
Ok but that doesn't apply soleley to me, it applies to everybody.
Originally posted by mitchiemasha mitchiemasha wrote:



[quote]I was always never happy with the sound, even when everyone else loved it.
That suggests it's you who may learn one day. If everyone in the venue loves the sound, it's job done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ113 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2017 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

...OK here is another fact of loudspeakers you don't seem to understand. Every speaker system type besides a sealed box is designed with a lower tuning frequency, that is the lowest frequency the system can handle at any significant power level. Below tuning the box no longer controls the driver and it acts as if in free air, so it's power handling is greatly reduced.. probably to something like 50-100w. So if you apply a 40hz signal at full power to a speaker with a 60hz tuning you will smash the drivers voice coil into the backplate and destroy it. For this reason you only have 2 choices, run the reflex and horns at different frequencies or limit all of them to 60hz and above if only using 1 sub passband.


Ok, but that raises more questions:

1. Why doesn't the Tannoy B400 manual warn about sending frequencies lower than 60Hz to the cabs?

2. I have hammered these cabs at full output with a Studiomaster Ax 3500 many times. I have never made any effort to control sub-60Hz frequencies, and they are still working just fine. So why haven't the drivers self-destructed as described above?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2017 at 5:35pm
Answer to 1 is because it assumes you've read the rest of the handbook and applied the active crossovers they recommend.

Answer to 2 probably program material and level id guess.

Answer to 3 is if you're happy then good for you. Carry on as is. If you want to learn and improve then dig deeper into the theory.
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