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Heat dissipation?

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RoadRanger View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 December 2009 at 6:50pm
With the driver's magnet sealed inside a little box how come the heat doesn't just build up until the driver burns out?
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biotec View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biotec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2009 at 10:28am
It may be sealed pneumatically but it isn't sealed thermally!
 
Heat can be lost through the wood, through the hatch screws, through the paper cone, and through every other material which connects the inside of the box to the outside.
 
It is certainly true that this rear chamber is fairly well insulated as none of the materials are particulalry good thermal conductors but in my years of running 1850 horns I never had a driver die from cooking so it must follow that the chamber is able to loose the heat as fast as it is generated once it has heated up to a certain point. Otherwise the chamber would just get hotter and hotter until the drivers failed.
 
If you re looking to extract every ounce of spl out of each cab and feel that the driver would fail thermally (burnt voicecoil) before it failed mechanically (xmax) then you could improve the thermal conductivity between the inside of the chamber and the outside of the box by heatsinking the hatch. The efficiency of the heatsink would be connecting the heatsink as close as possible to the voicecoil; I guess you could shape a piece of metal to penetrate the vent but it starts getting complicated and expensive to solve a problem which was never really a problem!


Edited by biotec - 14 December 2009 at 10:28am
me so horny, me love you long throw.
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darkmatter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darkmatter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2009 at 1:35pm
From what I've understood, heat generated by a driver is not transferred from the voice coil/pole piece to the surrounding air very effectively, irrespective of design.
 
A reflex design would suffer thermal effects in a pretty similar way - slightly less pronounced due to increased air flow but not by a huge margin. In either case, the most effective solution is to increase heat transfer directly away from the pole piece. Trying to couple a heatsink to the air/magnet isn't so effective.
 
This is going purely off what I've read, not any first hand tests.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jake_Fielder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 December 2009 at 10:24am
I think it was JaKe that said, that a friend of his did a test with vibrating air getting rid of heat vs a fan, and the vibrating air did a pretty good job i recall...
 
I have an old thread in the new project forum with a few details...
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoadRanger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2009 at 9:04pm
I just picked these up. I'm told they put insulation on the inside of the hatch cover - should I remove it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rich_gale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2009 at 9:59pm
you dont need wadding in the chamber.
 
about vc cooling, i opened up a tweeter once and it had an oily fluid in the vc gap.  must be to transfer heat.  any bass drivers employ this technique? 
REFLEX ALL THE WAY.... (however, im playing with horns again...) That ok Mister Valiant? :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adambomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2009 at 2:23pm
Ferofluid.. And nope, don't think it is used outside of hf drivers (would cause problems with a relitivily large coil moving a relitivily long way.
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