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Higher voltage?

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studio45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2020 at 1:14pm
Originally posted by slaz slaz wrote:

Whoops ... to me, 4-pin XLR _implies_ 12V. In my days of using/maintaining industrial video gear (in the last century :-) ), most of the "field use" gear e.g. cameras, field monitors, portable VTR's etc. used 4-pin XLR for power - and _all_ of it was 12V (well, 12V nominal).

In fact I picked up a converted car starter thang - just used as a  carry case really for a 12V 18Ah SLA battery - - they'd taken out the main high current croc-clip cables and fitted 2 x 4-pin female XLR connectors. Definitely for use in field video recording.

Right on - actually that is ringing a faint bell for me too. When I typed the post I was looking at a 36v wheelchair battery charger that has a 4 pin male XLR output wired + on 1 and - on 3. Do you recall the standard pinout/gendering for camera gear?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2020 at 2:50pm
Definitely don't remember the pinout - but Mr. Google reckons it seems to be fairly standardized at

pin 1 = ground
pin 2 = n/c
pin 3 = n/c
pin4 = +12V

Thinking about it - reminded me of the time I was making up a "special" camera cable .... a 26-pin umbilical for some reason. Hours of effing and blinding later an awful truth descended - I'd managed to solder all the reqd. pins (bear in mind this was with very inadequate tools/facilities) ... but had forgotten to slide the 26-pin connector's outer shroud over the cable :-) :-)

ISTR that was the night I rocked up back home at about 2 a.m. and got a grilling from the missus who thought I was having an affair :-)

REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 7:13am
Originally posted by slaz slaz wrote:

I'd managed to solder all the reqd. ... but had forgotten to slide the 26-pin connector's outer shroud over the cable :-) :-) 

There should be a specific word for thisEmbarrassed

I recently replaced a 19 pin socapex connector and only after tightening the back nut noticed that there was a second back shell and nut still threaded on the cable.🤔 

Easier to hacksaw an aluminium backshell off than resoldering 26 pins. But I imagine I went through the similar emotions.
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 1:34pm
What do we reckon is a good connector for >12v DC then? Because, in fairness, a 4 pin XLR isn't rated for much current either; OK for a charging socket though.
My first thought would be to use 3-wide Anderson PP30's: if you use a red, a green and a black, clipped together in that order, and only connect wires to the red and the black, then you have a polarised connector that can't be plugged into any normal 2-wide configuration and actually make the circuit. You could even use the green shell for a temperature sense line or similar. 
Of course you could split a 2-wide apart and make the connections, but at that point you either already know what you're doing or are about to learn *real* fast :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote APW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 2:38pm
the White -h8 ceeform is rated up to 250Vdc, the -h3 variant (Also White) can be used for 50 to 200Vdc

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1514435.pdf - page 93.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote csg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 3:09pm
Amphenol C0 16 series are ideal for this, small, tough, weatherproof, inexpensive and reliable. Used them many times on custom power supply or lamp ballast applications.
“The fact is this is about identifying what we do best and finding more ways of doing less of it better”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveAATW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 5:51pm
Kipman - out of interest have you built a BMS into the system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Digbethdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 October 2020 at 9:17pm
Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:

Originally posted by slaz slaz wrote:

I'd managed to solder all the reqd. ... but had forgotten to slide the 26-pin connector's outer shroud over the cable :-) :-) 

There should be a specific word for thisEmbarrassed

I recently replaced a 19 pin socapex connector and only after tightening the back nut noticed that there was a second back shell and nut still threaded on the cable.🤔 

Easier to hacksaw an aluminium backshell off than resoldering 26 pins. But I imagine I went through the similar emotions.
I've seen someone forget the nut, to tighten a basket weeve on tl37. He pinned it up, tested it, then tried putting it together.... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SamV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2020 at 9:08pm
I'm curious why you've built such a high voltage pack only to go use a DCDC to knock it to about half? Or was the plan to always find something suitable at a later date? I would have thought two 36v packs would be better. So in an extended use case, one could be taken and charged while the other worked?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kipman725 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 December 2020 at 11:58pm
Originally posted by SteveAATW SteveAATW wrote:

Kipman - out of interest have you built a BMS into the system?


Yes there is a bluetooth 50A BMS in the ammo can, if i put my phone close to it I can read it out.

yes its a bit stupid knocking the battery voltage down to 36V.  I built the pack as a nominal 64V pack as this would give ~500W into a 4 ohm load from a full bridge amplifier if that was the amplifiers DC bus, I then found out that there aren't any single supply off the shelf amps apart from very expensive Sure ones that can run off this bus voltage and the Sure ones have high idle currents.  I couldn't even get the higher voltage TPA3255 at the time I built it during the start of UK lockdown so ended up with the buck converter as a bit of a bodge.  I am however working on a new amp that will not need the buck converter and be very cheap based on the IR4301 running full bridge with alucore board to get the heat out.

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