Driver Mounting |
Post Reply |
Author | |
KaphaSound
Registered User Joined: 22 July 2020 Status: Offline Points: 102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 22 December 2020 at 5:49am |
So I’m about to build my first sub and I’ve got t-nuts and matching thread screws flat base round head and I’m guessing I should also use washers? Also if anyone has any links or knowledge on access panels that would be most appreciated! Finally I’m using quick disconnects for my Neutrik mount; has anyone had issues with these coming out? According to the sim this sub should be capable of 140db continuous in stacks of 2-4 in 1pi so I’m concerned the disconnects might shake off!
Edited by KaphaSound - 22 December 2020 at 5:49pm |
|
I-shen Soundboy
Registered User Joined: 21 December 2016 Location: Big Smoke Status: Offline Points: 375 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Throw away the t-nuts and buy inserts instead.
You probably won't need washers, they wouldn't fit if you're front loading the speaker - bolting it from the front - and your bolts have to have a small head to fit, so use allen bolts. Rear loading (bolting from behind) not such an issue unless speaker flange is small. Access panels - seal with neoprene hatch tape. And lots of.bolts. Is a Neutrik quick disconnect a spade terminal? Yes, they can come off, soldering is best. Edited by I-shen Soundboy - 22 December 2020 at 11:03pm |
|
KaphaSound
Registered User Joined: 22 July 2020 Status: Offline Points: 102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks for the info! Any reason why you prefer inserts? They seem very similar and the hole drilled will need to be the same size anyways? I will be rear loading and didn’t get allen bolts so in this case I’d guess washers would be the play? Unless you think they really won’t compare to Allen bolts.
As for the Access Panel is there a preffered size for the cut pieces to place on the inside edges or just to taste? Then I believe just wood screw them to the box then bolt the panel to the cut pieces?
Edited by KaphaSound - 22 December 2020 at 11:54pm |
|
jacethebase
Old Croc Joined: 23 September 2009 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 5697 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Threaded inserts are a lot stronger than Tee nuts and don’t stand the chance of breaking their legs off and spinning.
Use M6 stainless or Zinc Hex bolts. It’s easier to get an Allen key in a small chamber to tighten due to the 90deg angle. Also it’s easier to get them tight without rounding anything off. Make sure you spend time and attention sealing the chamber as air leaks are where 90% of rattles come from. Tape is best, a small bead of black silicone also works. Lots of bolts, again countersunk m6 Hex bolts are great for getting it tight. Personally I’d sack the quick connect NL4’s off and use solder ones. Soldering is simple and the strongest, cheapest possible solution. Get a decent iron (not expensive) just temp controlled. Some leaded solder with inbuilt flux and you will be surprised how easy it is. Jace
|
|
www.wedding-production.co.uk
www.stage2sound.com |
|
Noyzmunky
Young Croc Joined: 10 June 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1260 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
tnuts are the devils work.
round head screws are also the devils work... allen bolts rock. solder everything |
|
my name is Inigo Montoya...you killed my father, prepare to die!.
|
|
JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Someone make this a sticky. Problem with t nuts is *if* they fail you can end up having to trash a driver or cab to get the driver out depending on the cab design. If inserts fail they should still screw out. I use monacor mdm20 from blue aran to seal drivers, easy and clean.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |