Punishers blew away our old 18" reflexs

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   Punisher is only 102dB sensitivity, but with two and the huge mouth of the horn, combined with the enclosed environment of the car, I think it would be pretty loud. I've found an amp that will put out 1500w RMS @ 1ohm, so a pair of them should power the system nicely!
Only an idea at the moment, but it could be fum to upset a few people in the world of in car SPL with some interesting horn designs.

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MixMan X Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 18 July 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 382	Post Options Post Reply Quote MixMan X Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 December 2005 at 6:41am
	Punisher is only 102dB sensitivity, but with two and the huge mouth of the horn, combined with the enclosed environment of the car, I think it would be pretty loud. I've found an amp that will put out 1500w RMS @ 1ohm, so a pair of them should power the system nicely! Only an idea at the moment, but it could be fum to upset a few people in the world of in car SPL with some interesting horn designs.

IAIN RENDLE Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 23 May 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 836	Post Options Post Reply Quote IAIN RENDLE Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 December 2005 at 12:22pm
	little bit off topic. but does any one know the sense of an 186 bin? and max SPL. planning of having 16 in my rig will it hit 150db? iain
	-=vortex sound systems=- www.vortexsound.co.uk

Jay Lawless Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 22 August 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1702	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jay Lawless Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 December 2005 at 1:54am
	i'm sure you'l hit 150db with 16 bins... @Mixman, would be nice to see that idea go to work. should try it out Edited by NeverWinter - 15 December 2005 at 1:55am
	Previously known as NeverWinter Background: Automotive, Live and Home Custom Design. mid/high level based design and feild experience. Bass specialist

kevinmcdonough Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 27 June 2005 Location: Glasgow Status: Offline Points: 3751	Post Options Post Reply Quote kevinmcdonough Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 May 2006 at 2:34pm
	Hey flipside Sorry to drag up an old topic, but am planning my punishers and would like to ask about your access hatch, as I'm playing about with dimentions and seeing how best to rout the access hatch so that there are no battens, in a similar manner to what you have done. i'm just wondering what you use to attach the access hatch to the cabinate. Do you use T-nuts or just screw directly into the wood? The part of the side pannel that you have had to rout away and that the side pannel will be touching/screwing in to, is directly above the side walls of the rear chamber on the other side so would have been very hard to get T-nuts into. Just wondering if you managed it and if so then how? (just read that back hope it makes sense ) kev

loophole Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 02 March 2004 Status: Offline Points: 469	Post Options Post Reply Quote loophole Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 May 2006 at 3:42pm
	kev, if you make your removable battens as one piece, in a ring, and make it precisely, you wont have a problem with leaks etc. i make mine like this, and then bolt them in tight on all sides while the box is gluing, so the panels making up the rear chamber have a good tight fit with the battens. unless you want to use woodscrews as you mentioned above, the only other way would be to recess the hatch to half depth right beyond the rear chamber panels, so the nuts have a clear space to sit in. however if you did this the hatch would have very extended thin flimsy edges - i would probably opt for an aluminium plate instead if i was going to do it this way...

Lyndon A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 15 November 2004 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 536	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lyndon A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 May 2006 at 4:03pm
	We just routed 7.5mm deep from both the access panel and the side panel. We chose 20mm as the width of route. We used screws to hold the access panel on. It's unlikely you'll need to get in them again, the drivers seem so solid. One inside edge of the side panel will need an additional piece of scrap wood screwed inside. This is because the screw wouldn't grip onto much. All the other screws can go into the edges. I don't know if that makes much sense, perhaps a diagram would be better?!!!!

Deej Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 07 July 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 142	Post Options Post Reply Quote Deej Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 May 2006 at 4:24pm
	I did exactly the same thing as Flipside on my punishers and i havnt found that using screws is a problem. Although it isnt ideal, as long as you dont over tighten the screws you should be able to take the access panels off at least five times without damaging the threads (which you wont need to do unless you are seriously overpowering the drivers)