need help with csub

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   alright imgetting ready to build myself a csub, and i need to know a couple of things.  first of all... does anyone knwo the specifics of the removable pannel and batten?  I am curious if someone has a drawing of what the back looks like and also if they could tell me what on earth a batten is and what type of wood i need to build one. second... i am wondering how the csub affects phase and if so how can i prevent that from hurting my sound?  what do i need to fix a problem liek that inexpensively?
PS i need to build this thing by march the 4th, so im in a bit of a hurry and any information on this would be apreciated greatly.

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robotnation Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Member Banned! Joined: 17 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 254	Post Options Post Reply Quote robotnation Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: need help with csub Posted: 19 January 2006 at 10:30pm
	alright imgetting ready to build myself a csub, and i need to know a couple of things. first of all... does anyone knwo the specifics of the removable pannel and batten? I am curious if someone has a drawing of what the back looks like and also if they could tell me what on earth a batten is and what type of wood i need to build one. second... i am wondering how the csub affects phase and if so how can i prevent that from hurting my sound? what do i need to fix a problem liek that inexpensively? PS i need to build this thing by march the 4th, so im in a bit of a hurry and any information on this would be apreciated greatly.

robotnation Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Member Banned! Joined: 17 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 254	Post Options Post Reply Quote robotnation Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 January 2006 at 10:39pm
	i forgot to mention i have this crossover http://www.behringer.com/CX3400/index.cfm?lang=ENG does that delay thing they talk about acount for phase?

james folkes Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064	Post Options Post Reply Quote james folkes Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 4:36am
	regarding phasing, when you are running the gear twiddle the delay knob until the sound is most "together" around the crossover point. you can try and science it but your ear is probably more accurate. batten is just normal timber strip, you know, just planed wood. it is available in large enough packs from most diy shops to do a few cabs. i am using a lot of 18 x 18mm batten at the moment as it is the same size as the ply thickness, can make for a nice visually pleasing finish. in terms of the removable panel just keep the following in mind and you won't go wrong. you need a hole big enough to get the driver in and you need material on the other side of the panel to bolt it to, think door frame. happy building. james.
	mardy hippy.

robotnation Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Member Banned! Joined: 17 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 254	Post Options Post Reply Quote robotnation Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 10:28am
	Thanks for the info, i just need one last little bit of advice.... how should i connect teh speaker to the wood so that its easily removable? I used bolts washers and locking nuts and tightened them well, but i discovered that its the most frustrating theing ever to fit a ratchet inside a tight speaker housing once its all closed and sealed. What would you suggest i use to connect the speaker to the cabinet so that its removable? This part is really optional, but id like to be able to change drivers without building a new housing in case i ever decide to upgrade this thing (or in case i realized i messed up the housing.)

james folkes Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064	Post Options Post Reply Quote james folkes Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 12:53pm
	what you need to use here is one of the two varieties of captive nut for timber. the most commonly available is called a t-nut and for an m6 fatening you drill out to 8mm and then either hammer in (nasty) or use a bolt and washer on the other side to 'draw' the spikes of the nut into the wood (nice). http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12749&ts=7928 6 the second type (which i use exclusively as they can't fall out) is the screw in m6 nut insert. http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=28157&ts=7928 6 james.
	mardy hippy.

robotnation Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Member Banned! Joined: 17 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 254	Post Options Post Reply Quote robotnation Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 2:35pm
	Alright, i am gonna buy 8 of the screw in nuts (maybe more for my removable panel too), but its also not very specific what type of bolt connects to the nut inserts. Do you know exact thread per inch and diameter i need? (oh yea btw the speaker i am using is the rcf l18 p300.)

norty303 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 18 August 2004 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 8806	Post Options Post Reply Quote norty303 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 2:39pm
	Don't know if it's differentin the States but over here the M6 (or M5 or M4, etc) is the size of the bolt, so you'd use M6 bolts for an M6 insert.
	My laser stuff: Frikkin Lasers

Jimbo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 07 March 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 420	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jimbo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 January 2006 at 2:59pm
	I use the "T-nuts" that James mentioned. They are readly available at most hardware or lumber stores. If you can find a discount bolt and screw company they're much cheaper. I also recommend using "Allen head" bolts (also known as "hex key"). You'll find (in US) that 12" and larger drivers take a 1/4 x 20. These are what I'm talking about and not a horrible price. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&P artnumber=260-778 Look around on the site. They offer some pretty good stuff. Jim