Suggested X over settings for 3 way rig! |
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charlysays
Registered User Joined: 16 June 2015 Location: Wales Status: Offline Points: 413 |
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Good tip thanks man. I'll look into it.
Will it sound better than it does now even with the beyma running on the original crossover network? For the purposes of dry hire type situations I'd like to keep it simple. |
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nickyburnell
Old Croc Joined: 06 February 2005 Status: Offline Points: 4410 |
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Yes, but don't expect that bottom 15 to do much when in the three way system.
http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=BMAFD250&browsemode=manufacturer is another solution, they do 4ohm bottom on those and then the 15's will be working together. All getting expensive though, perhaps some different mid tops later |
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It's everything, not everythink!
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charlysays
Registered User Joined: 16 June 2015 Location: Wales Status: Offline Points: 413 |
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Cool... yeah new mid tops is something I could do with. I get away with atm to uneducated listeners by running the tops comparatively low, with truck loads of sub. Sounds good to me but I know there's another world in terms of sound quality.
What options are there for something better , short of spending £1000 on a pair of used turbosounds? |
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nickyburnell
Old Croc Joined: 06 February 2005 Status: Offline Points: 4410 |
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Get the money then do a wanted ad on here. You will be inundated.
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It's everything, not everythink!
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Peter Jan
Young Croc Joined: 16 December 2008 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 1019 |
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In my opinion it is best to leave the crossover as it is with another driver. I experimented with B&C DE-25/250 with an active crossover and also with some alterations of the original passive network and it is just not worth the money, time and effort, compared to the net result. I would spend my time and money on enterily other gear later on if really needed or wanted, whether that would be DIY or new/second hand brand stuff. The SF 25 is basically sound, just lacks that top-end. Another driver that runs high properly or adding a super tweeter, is the cheapest and most bang-for-the-buck manner to make it sound very acceptable. It will take nothing more than an extra capacitor and resistor for each cab to "tune" it levelwise and soundwise. Going full active seems to me a lot of hassle, gear and money spending if you want to keep it dry-hire-simple and cost effective. Going that route of changing speakers/drivers, active, extra amp, rewiring and so on, has a tendency to snowball into something that after all is said and done, probably ends up being as costly as other gear in the first place, especially when you count the time you have put into it. While working on it (usually many seperate days of downtime for changing stuff around, testing, listening), you can't rent it out either. |
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