HD15 Simplification |
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davey t
Young Croc Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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the curved section can be done in 20 minutes. Just create curved guide rails down the sides to screw too. Then glue one side of all 5/6 pieces. Screw them all into the bottom, and start bending by screwing into the guide rail ever 2cm. Worked great, we have a perfect curve with no problems. Took 2 days to build 4! Have e-mailed the construction pic to Rog but he has yet to put them up... |
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davey t
Young Croc Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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Oh, and you need 2 people to do it this way, one to screw, and the other to literaly stand on the layers to bend them!
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loophole
Registered User Joined: 02 March 2004 Status: Offline Points: 469 |
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what do you think of the structural strength of doing it that way davey? its tempting, but i'd be worried about glue in the inner layers setting correctly
certain patches inside might never get the cure they need to get the glue's full strength curved formers is the only way to go, they dont take long to make either. personally, i glued each layer, one a day. a bit of steam from a kettle can make the bending a lot easier, as can making sure the grain of the ply runs the right way (much much easier to bend when the grain runs across the curve than around it) |
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Andrew
Registered User Joined: 10 March 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 669 |
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Using load straps means you can build the cabinet single handed. Can get quite a force to hold down the layers this way.
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matt andrews
Registered User Joined: 15 September 2004 Status: Offline Points: 501 |
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Sorry to drag this one out, but i think im gonna go with the standard access panel design. If I am doing this might as well do it right first time.
Anyway, how big does the access hole need to be (i wont buy a drive untill i have completed the box), would strips of 18mm ply be ok for the recessed bit (not sure what word to use here). |
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Andrew
Registered User Joined: 10 March 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 669 |
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Specs for most drivers are on the www. Rog likes access panels as small as possible to improve rigidity. The access hole for the driver ends up on the top of the unit, which makes it look a bit messy (with my carpentry anyway). However I've not built it dom's way, with leaving the bass (top in the diagram) off until the end of the build. My back panels are stiffened a little with an additional layer of ply glued down on part of the back to help support the speakon connectors. Good luck with the build. |
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spaceman
Registered User Joined: 26 July 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 52 |
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wot size shoud i get my thin ply cut? too idle to work it out. plus is flexi-ply any cop? enquired at the timber yard its not cheap, fust for a small pannel. 30 squids for 8*4.
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Dave Slater
Registered User Joined: 28 February 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 373 |
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doing the curve is easy when Dom and i did ours we had the individual sheets over sized so that they all but touched the back of the cabinet make sure they're cut so that the grain goes across and there will be enough give in them glue and screw the first to a batton running across the front of the cab then bend it over and glue and screw to the top of the baffle you can then panel pin the next two sheets down with loads of pva inbetween especially from across the baffle and with plenty on the bit that over hangs to make sure of a good joint if you look at this picture you'll see a length of wood being held by a G clamp this was pushing down on to the sheets ensuring enough pressure was there during the drying so that it's sealed well to be honest that is the most important part that you have to make sure is completely glued up or it will vibrate the final sheet is screwed through into the batton and baffle again the wood is placed there for pressure whilst drying once it's all dry all you have to do is measure 120mm from the back and saw it off in a straight line |
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davey t
Young Croc Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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Its as solid as rock. Used lots of glue and screws and it set as if it was a 18mm thick piece of ply. I really reccomend doing it this way, it made them so easy to build. |
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Andrew
Registered User Joined: 10 March 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 669 |
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My HD15 curved horn is built from three 3.6mm ply layers and an even thinner finishing layer, almost a laminate. I use no screws for the horn, just glue, two layers of ply and it is reasonably solid, three layers and it is rock solid, finishing layer and it also looks pretty.
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nightline
Registered User Joined: 28 February 2004 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 70 |
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I.ve build a few double HD15 with the curved section replaced by 2 peices, and one of them is removeble for speaker access.   ; The original HD15's i've build are powered by Beyma 15G400 speakers. The double versions are powered by 18Sound 15W1402, and the a few with neodymium drivers from 18Sound.
Kind regards
Jack |
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