HD215 MOD to fit Martin Audio 115 |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | |
jbl_man
Moderator Group Joined: 12 January 2005 Location: London. Status: Offline Points: 11154 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
In the early days Martin 115's were used from 40 right up to 700hz...in fact one of their 'suggested' systems in the early brochure was a pair of 115's with the Martin radial horn just plonked on top,700hz crossover! Hifi it wasnt,but was simple,and it worked! |
|
Be seeing you.
|
|
jbl_man
Moderator Group Joined: 12 January 2005 Location: London. Status: Offline Points: 11154 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
Be seeing you.
|
|
DMorison
Old Croc Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1647 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Right clicked on your original image and selected "search google for image".... it really was that easy. Only info I have is what's there, sorry.
|
|
space141
Registered User Joined: 18 June 2015 Status: Offline Points: 30 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here's a photo of them from the side just to confirm that these are not Martin Audio 115 as they do not have such a long box shape (or handles on the side) but are Fane Long Throw horns - not sure of model no yet.
Weird thing is though when I opened up the back I noticed that the driver was facing into the central enclosure which was lined with something like hessian fibre (coffee bean sack material) which was stuck to the driver surround which had disintegrated. I also noticed that it had been modded with an extra wooden frame attached to the back with two walls to extend the neck and also did not have a wedge on the back plate - all very strange. I have removed this add-on as I'd much prefer it to be nearer to the original (see bottom cab above) so plan on adding a wedge to the back plate and turning the speaker around so that it fires into the wedge which makes much more sense. Any advice as to what material/ combination of material to line the inside of the chamber with. Also, what do people think about adding an extra bracing in the middle of the chamber to make sure it doesn't resonate too much...? Sorry for all the questions, thanks for all the replies so far. Thomas.
Edited by space141 - 25 March 2016 at 5:09pm |
|
Peter Jan
Young Croc Joined: 16 December 2008 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 1019 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The wadding/damping is not really needed if you're not going to use it above 150-200Hz. Above it helps to smoothen respons and that is also speaker dependant. So it might be not needed, depending on how you're going to use it, but it won't hurt either, even if not needed. To get the best out of this design, you best refabricate the wedge in the back. Again, for only low frequency reproduction, it will work fine with the speaker reversed and no wedge, because the space the magnet/basket occupies, acts as a compressor just as the wedge would. The wavelengths of the lower frequencies are too long to have an adverse effect and the working is based on air compressing and expanding. The shape of the parts that make the compression happen, is not important. Once in the hundreds that becomes an issue, because of shorter wavelengths that need properly angled wave guidance not to refract back to the source and/or randomly reflect to everywhere and have destructive cancelations even before being directed back and forth in the hornpath. Some extra bracing won't hurt. The main thing is to not have panels too large without support. Whether that is made up of small added ribs and/or interconnections with a panel on the other side of the cavity/hornpath, it all helps. Also make sure every panel of the cab is nailed, glued, screwed,.. firmly together and without airleaks, because that can be a source for chuffing, rattlling,... Edited by Peter Jan - 10 April 2016 at 12:52pm |
|
Mark James
Old Croc Joined: 15 January 2006 Location: rig side Status: Offline Points: 5309 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
if thats what you have allready got then more of the same loaded with the same drivers and amps and running the same signal etc is what i would suggest then when you have 6/8 of them if you decide you need more low low end get a few x1s or some other sub specific design and raise the lower crossover point from 40 up to 70 or wherether works out a good place to cross between the two cabs, more of the same cabs with same amping and drivers is what id suggest to start with tho 6/8 is where it realy starts to get fun :-)
|
|
me so horny me love you long throw
horn loaded for her pleasure |
|
csg
Old Croc Joined: 17 September 2007 Location: bedford Status: Offline Points: 6086 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
as above, these old 115's really need to be in blocks of 4 minimum to work well - but when they do, they really do...so stick with the design and just build more - mixing with hd215's would be totally counter productive.
|
|
“The fact is this is about identifying what we do best and finding more ways of doing less of it better”
|
|
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |