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robotnation
Registered User Member Banned! Joined: 17 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 28 May 2006 at 10:05pm |
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yea i jsut bit the bullet and ordered the sd18. I have basic tools but i can still pull it off with what i have, but thers one minor thing that worries me... I dont want to make a removable panel on the back. I think thats silly and i bet id hurt my hands trying to get in through that tiny hole. I am still willing to build it if its the ONLY way, but its a hastle. What i was thinking about doing was not glueing the whole entire side on and then lining all of those faaces with squishy foamy weather stripping strips. I would then put the side on over the weather stripping and fasten it with wood screws. I have done this with rephlex boxes before and noticed no problems, its totaly airtight. I think having an entire side come off is a tiny bit more convenient than building a removable panel. Would this weather stripping joint effect the functionality of the speaker at all? |
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soundsystemdan
Young Croc Joined: 04 April 2005 Location: Leeds UK Status: Offline Points: 716 |
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I have no experiance of this cabinet but I too am considering building one, and i have built and used others home built cabs. I think your suggestion of making the whole side the removable and using sealing strips may well be good as far as sealing is concerned, but I'd by worried about the strength of the cabinet.
If it takes a drop on a corner, it will put a fair amount of stress on the screws and wood where it isn't glueded, at these points there's only 9mm or less of wood between the screw and the edge. Also after a couple of removals and refits those screw holes will become worn. I have some cabs with a removable back, which is the whole panel with no battens, just screwing into the edge of the sides, and after 2/3 removals I had to replace the screws with slightly fatter ones. Maybe you could make the removable panel else where, (sides/front) but think about how you will brace the cabinet in the process. But I'd recommend sticking to the plans. |
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Andrew
Registered User Joined: 10 March 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 669 |
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I use replaceable backs on my HD15, I find the build much easier and still sound good, but I don't max rms them. |
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Dom
Old Croc Joined: 25 February 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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How big are your hands?
The SD18 happily goes in through the access panel on an X1 even without the notches on the batten. If you cut the notches then it goes in without even having to tilt it. Personally I don't think there's enough bracing on an X1 as it is. After testing the first one I built I went back and added an additional side to side brace. I would suggest that if you're going to put a driver of the calibre of the SD-18 in this cab and drive it properly (1kw+) then you should take the time to build the cab properly. |
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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."
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Jochen
Registered User Joined: 20 January 2006 Status: Offline Points: 59 |
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I can confirm that. Why modifying the design when it's not necessary?
Hmm, I doubt if putting 1kw or more in the X1 with an SD18 is such a good idea. I burned the voice coil of one of our SD18's a couple of months ago. The X1 was powered by one channel of a Crest 8001 (720 wrms @ 8 ohm). I'm still not shure if the SD18 died because of clipping of the amp or that putting that kind of power into a driver in a bandpass cabinet is asking for problems. Maybe the void driver has less problems dissipating the heat because of the larger voice coil. Regards, Jochen |
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I like my sugar with coffee and cream
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norty303
Old Croc Joined: 18 August 2004 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 8806 |
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Are you saying that you're not sure it was clipping, or whether it was because of the clipping that it died? I'd say something was amiss if it died with that amount of power |
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My laser stuff: Frikkin Lasers
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Soulshine
Registered User Joined: 03 March 2004 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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In my opinion your SD18 died from the power amount you feed it.
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Thank God
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Mark James
Old Croc Joined: 15 January 2006 Location: rig side Status: Offline Points: 5309 |
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id say something was a miss, iv seen sd18 take 2kw [ok v.clean 2kw but] and survive happily.....
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me so horny me love you long throw
horn loaded for her pleasure |
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norty303
Old Croc Joined: 18 August 2004 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 8806 |
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Yep, the SD18 has better power handling than my Beyma LX60's and I fed them 1200w each in a BP6 box.
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My laser stuff: Frikkin Lasers
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Heathrow_B_line
Old Croc Joined: 11 January 2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 7344 |
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didnt rog say once that cos of the x1's design it should only be powered upto 80% power?
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Produce a killer sound. Take no prisoners.
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Dom
Old Croc Joined: 25 February 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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Personally I think more important than power is a hefty high pass and avoiding clipping, compression or hard limiting.
Ever since getting the AVC2 and making sure the subs are adequately high passed I've had no problems using a lot of power... |
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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."
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Soulshine
Registered User Joined: 03 March 2004 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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After doing some experimentally tests this evening i respecify my opinion about the power handle of the x1. Powering it with 750Wats and after that with 2000W (the same amp in bridge mode) had as a result, a sizeable different in it's performance. This means that the sd18 can safely handle more than 750W. I agree very much with Doms above placement about the importance of the high pass filtre! It's surely that it can't handle whole the 2000W, but it has prove me that it will play much louder if i overpower it.
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Thank God
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