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bruce@bluff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: JBL EON 515
    Posted: 12 April 2016 at 6:22am
Got a JBL EON515 module in for repairs. Unit does not come on. Any ideas ?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Earplug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 10:33am
Earplugs Are For Wimps!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 10:56am
Thanks, but by the time it gets shipped out here to SA it would almost be the same as buying a new speaker. Found a supplier in the UK for app 306 pounds and with an exchange  of R22 to the GBP it too is ridiculous. Was hoping is something simple I could repair here. Anyone got a diagram?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kedwardsleisure Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 2:19pm
is the primary dc bus up?
Kevin

North Staffordshire

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bruce@bluff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 2:26pm
Not too sure which one is the primary dc bus  I would assume you mean the rectified supply across C610 AND C611 will check it. I did check RT601 and it measures app 16ohm in circuit I also don't hear the relay click in upon power up and RT601 remains cool. Thanks.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Earplug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 6:43pm
I managed to get one going a while ago, but it wasn´t easy. Start with the usual suspects, ie the output FETS.

I´m also pretty sure a friend here managed to source replacement boards for around $130. I´ll check and let you know.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote simonp1100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2016 at 7:07pm
PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL AS VERY DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ARE AROUND THIS BOARD WHEN POWERED UP AND THIS SHOULD BE ONLY ATTEMPTED BY A COMPETENT ENGINEER.

I have repaired a few of these and below is a list of things to check from the JBL service manual:--

Start by doing a thorough visual examination of the assembly for any sign of damage.

This will help guide you to the trouble area.

2. Using an ohm-meter measure from TP601 (+VCC) to TP602 (Ground). It should
measure over 2K and rising as it charges up the capacitors. If this reads near 0 ohms then
you will need to remove the PWA from the heatsink and check for a silpad short.
3. Using an ohm-meter measure from TP603 (-VCC) to TP602 (Ground). It should
measure over 2K and rising as it charges up the capacitors. If this reads near 0 ohms then
you will need to remove the PWA from the heatsink and check for a silpad short or a
short between U402 and the heatsink.
4. Using an ohm-meter measure from TP601 (+VCC) to TP603 (-VCC). It should
measure over 2K and rising as it charges up the capacitors. If this reads near 0 ohms, then
check Q370, Q371, Q372 and Q373 for shorts, and replace the damaged parts. If two of
these MOSFETs are shorted then replacing them is all you will need to do to the
amplifier section but you will need to check the power supply for damage.
5. Connect a low voltage supply capable of +/-20Vdc to TP601 (+VCC),
TP602(GROUND) and TP603(-VCC). Verify thatthe +15, -15, +5 and –5V regulators
have the proper voltage output. If the voltage is low on any of these and there is not
excessive current draw, then replace the regulator.
6. Connect a 40K ohm resistor from D611 cathode (+VCC SENSE) to +VCC, with the
supplies set to +/-20Vdc. This will allow the amplifier to start switching. Verify the
switching waveforms at Q370 Drain pin and Q372 Drain pin are square and stable.

Primary circuits.
1.  Using an ohm-meter check Q605 and Q606 for shorts. If these devices are shorted
then check R626 and R628 which should read 10ohms. Next check Q601, Q602,
Q603, Q604 for shorts and opens. If any of these are damaged then you will most
likely need to replace the following parts along with the ones already identified.
U603, R623, R624, U602, U609 and U 601.
2.  After replacing all failed parts, connect a power supply set to 13Vdc from +15V
control to SMPSREF and place a 1K ohm resistor from U602 pin 2 to +15
control. Verify that the signal at Q606 Gate is a square wave at approximately
140KHz.
3.  Remove the 13V supply and resistor then connect a 300Vdc supply from VBULK
to SMPSREF. Verify that the signal at Q606 collector is a 300V peak to peak
square wave. The current draw should be less than 70ma.
4.  Verify that +Vcc and –Vcc are ~ 21Vdc with 300V on Vbulk.
5.  Remove the supply, check the AC fuse and verify proper operation when plugged
into the AC line.


Initial Field Failure Reports

To date early field failures have been observed in the 3 categories listed below. Included in each
category are typical warning signs indicative of each as well as corrective actions implemented.
1. Shorted devices due to metal shaving contamination. Single shorted output device with no
other failures. Look for metal shavings in the silpad insulator. Vtech has added an additional
cleaning stage to remove these from the heatsink.
2. Low IGBT gate drive at start up. Typically a catastrophic failure with extensive power
supply gate drive damage (R625-628,Q601-606,U602-602,U608,U609) . The 15 ohm
PTC at RT601 allows U608 to fully initialize before the supply is enabled.
3. 230V power up failures due to a sticking relay. The dominant failure modes observed
have been a blown fuse and/or damaged U603. Check for a stuck relay by looking across
the contacts of K600 while unpowered for a short between 1/2VBULK and DOUBLER.
These can be accessed topside by probing T601 Pin 6 (highlighted in pink and R611 Pin
2 highlighted in white).
In some cases a stuck relay can be “unstuck” by getting knocked about in shipping and
will measure ok. It is also worth noting that the bulk caps C610 and C611 can be
damaged due to overvoltage stress if powered on at 220-264V with a stuck relay. In this
case the unit will power up successfully but will not work when driving a load. Replacing
C610 and C611 will remedy this. The auto detect circuitry has been redesigned effective
1/14/09 to prevent a power down glitch which causes the stuck relay.

Check there is 15 volts across C619 when powered up & this will tell if the VBOOT circuit is working (if not replace U608  which is a LNK304).

Hope this helps......WinkWink


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bruce@bluff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2016 at 6:15am
Thanks for the assistance. Simon will get on it this morning
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bruce@bluff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2016 at 8:00am
Hi Simon, TP601 to TP602 reads 150k and the same with TP603 to TP602   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simonp1100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2016 at 5:45am
Hi, It's more likely to be around the SMPS section.

Check the small relay contacts are not shorted out (take relay out) and then check there is 15 volts across C619 when powered up & this will tell if the VBOOT circuit is working (if not replace U608  which is a LNK304). The relay drive circuit is powered via this VBOOT circuit and this seems to be where the problem may be. Wink



Edited by simonp1100 - 14 April 2016 at 5:49am
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bruce@bluff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bruce@bluff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2016 at 6:23am
Thanks all for your help found all the trannies around U602 blown so I would assume U602 is blown too. The board has already been worked on and it looks like those parts where changed. Told my mate it would be better to replace the whole board. Waiting a price from Thoman. Is it common for powered speakers to be so problematic, it's not only JBL but Wharfdale too, perhaps it's our bad power out here or they can't take the heat and humidity.    
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rish View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2016 at 7:46am
I used powered speakers for years and never had a problem with any of them from JBL , RCF etc..
99% of the time it is down to user error. I have seen peeps her in SA use 2 Jbl Eon's for 1000 people and drive the shit out of those speakers.
Our power is fine and the weather conditions is adequate to operate equipment within safe operating temperatures.  Power becomes a huge problem in buildings that have incorrect wiring configurations and therefore becomes a problem in a specific venue. I have seen in many venues that they have 8-12 plug points on one breaker. If a few points are being used then its fine, but when all are being used for sound, lighting ,catering ect it does pose huge problems and more a safety concern.
 
Rish
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