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Lidl non contact voltage tester.

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mk2_ginger_biscuit69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mk2_ginger_biscuit69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2020 at 9:46pm
i love it when tradesmen go off on one. You can buy test gear for a hell of a lot less used, and don't need a super expensive piece of accredited paper to perform a job to the required standards then test them. Most test gear is also incredibly automated making it quick and easy to use.

I have no formal training, other than working alongside trades on other jobs, but could quite happily wire a house to a good safe standard, quite possibly to a higher standard than that you would find in a hastily knocked together newbuild.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote James Tengo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2020 at 11:26pm
Likewise, the domestic sparky “production” employed to install a pair of synced sets at a low budget community ran festival - who’d never seen a set of powerlocks before - was apparently “more qualified” to do the job than I was...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2020 at 11:02pm
Originally posted by mk2_ginger_biscuit69 mk2_ginger_biscuit69 wrote:

i love it when tradesmen go off on one. You can buy test gear for a hell of a lot less used, and don't need a super expensive piece of accredited paper to perform a job to the required standards then test them. Most test gear is also incredibly automated making it quick and easy to use.

I have no formal training, other than working alongside trades on other jobs, but could quite happily wire a house to a good safe standard, quite possibly to a higher standard than that you would find in a hastily knocked together newbuild.



That may or may not be the case, but if you don't actually test it ( and I mean produce an EIC) it could be a death trap.

I avoid domestic "sparky" work like the plague as I don't want to move furniture about, deal with kids, pets (ok I like pets) or idiots but if I do do it most people don't like my 12 page EICRs explaining why "the outside light their Dad put up", the "Extra socket" or "power to the shed" all need removing.

Brand new socket plates can be faulty and if you don't have the gear to do proper tests (I mean PSC/PFC here, which no multi-meter can do ) you could have a fault which isn't really your fault (beyond you having a stab) literally cause a fire.

The proliferation of cheap Chinese crap (some knock-off branded) also doesn't help, if you MK Dual USB socket is a fake you really want to check it can take 13A before you let your washing machine run over night off it...

This is isn't a rant and I KNOW a lot of people on here and can very good work, I've seen it, but it is bit of a mute point if it is never ticketed.

Smile



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2020 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by James Tengo James Tengo wrote:

Likewise, the domestic sparky “production” employed to install a pair of synced sets at a low budget community ran festival - who’d never seen a set of powerlocks before - was apparently “more qualified” to do the job than I was...

You should have time lapsed him, I'm sure just watching him plug them up would be fun, let alone pushing in the second set!!!!LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odc04r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 August 2020 at 1:08am
Originally posted by Boxes-R-Blue Boxes-R-Blue wrote:

In this very thread is the reason you shouldn't be able to buy so much as cable without a ticket.

If the "zoning" was correct on the mains runs the fitter would have needed to be a genius to hit a cable, I guess the zoning was verified?

Buying a £2000 tester to do the EIC for the new works to save £1100 for a contractor seems a bit mad to me, I assume you have completed a EIC, tested all loops, insulation, polarity, RCD disconnect times and confirmed you loop values are low enough for the protective devices deployed?

A kitchen is the room in the house where 80% of the power goes and I have seen "Top End" kitchens (£50K plus) wired up to lessor standard than a ghetto squat.

Personally, I have non-contact tester and very rarely use it, if I do I have a little process that makes sure I have discovered what i think I have with it.

But, to me perhaps a £5 test device is better than none, as long as you never try and prove anything dead with it!!!!

"Meter your Mains", but NOT with THAT!!!!!! :-)


I discovered previous cables running 45 degrees across walls well out of control zones once I started excavating. Maybe was DIY previously, maybe not. I know my installs are within permitted control zones so no bother.

Funnily enough chap I eventually chucked tried to persuade me everything would be alright on one ring main in a large-ish kitchen. Didn't agree with that myself so doubled up and put extra spur in with significant over capacity for cooker.

Measured suitably low loop impedances and isolation to >1Meg on all feeds once installed.

Frankly I expect the work I did would be better than half the professionals just looking to move onto their next job. And now I also know where everything is buried.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odc04r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 August 2020 at 1:13am
Originally posted by odc04r odc04r wrote:

Originally posted by Boxes-R-Blue Boxes-R-Blue wrote:

In this very thread is the reason you shouldn't be able to buy so much as cable without a ticket.

If the "zoning" was correct on the mains runs the fitter would have needed to be a genius to hit a cable, I guess the zoning was verified?

Buying a £2000 tester to do the EIC for the new works to save £1100 for a contractor seems a bit mad to me, I assume you have completed a EIC, tested all loops, insulation, polarity, RCD disconnect times and confirmed you loop values are low enough for the protective devices deployed?

A kitchen is the room in the house where 80% of the power goes and I have seen "Top End" kitchens (£50K plus) wired up to lessor standard than a ghetto squat.

Personally, I have non-contact tester and very rarely use it, if I do I have a little process that makes sure I have discovered what i think I have with it.

But, to me perhaps a £5 test device is better than none, as long as you never try and prove anything dead with it!!!!

"Meter your Mains", but NOT with THAT!!!!!! :-)


I discovered previous cables running 45 degrees across walls well out of control zones once I started excavating. Maybe was DIY previously, maybe not. I know my installs are within permitted control zones so no bother.

Funnily enough chap I eventually chucked tried to persuade me everything would be alright on one ring main in a large-ish kitchen. Didn't agree with that myself so doubled up and put extra spur in with significant over capacity for cooker.

Measured suitably low loop impedances and isolation to >1Meg on all feeds once installed.

Frankly I expect the work I did would be better than half the professionals just looking to move onto their next job. And now I also know where everything is buried.


As to add re zoning. All wiring was correct and within permitted zones, fitter was provided the plan, but he went and put his cupboard fix where he shouldn't have. This was also according to the plan that the kitchen provider had issued. It was a vertical run and perfectly permissible.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 August 2020 at 10:32pm
1Meg??

@ what voltage?

10Megs min @ 500V, I'mm looking for 99.9..... on the screen

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 August 2020 at 11:22pm
1 meg ohm is min for regs innit?

Yep higher the better but sometimes in damp ridden rentals where the kitchens just been plastered, washing is drying everywhere, no windows are ever open you are lucky to get 10meg ohm.

Even new installs sometimes are a bit low as fabric of the building is damp. 

Let's not forget a mega ohm is 1 million ohms!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2020 at 2:05am
Originally posted by chris_k chris_k wrote:

1 meg ohm is min for regs innit?

Yep higher the better but sometimes in damp ridden rentals where the kitchens just been plastered, washing is drying everywhere, no windows are ever open you are lucky to get 10meg ohm.

Even new installs sometimes are a bit low as fabric of the building is damp. 

Let's not forget a mega ohm is 1 million ohms!

"min for Regs" ye just what I want in my house....

But hat is 1 Meg @ 250V, 1 Meg on your Fluke multi meter don't count....LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris_k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2020 at 12:27pm
Nope I'm sure it's 1M ohm at 500 v

I'm a Megger man myself
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boxes-R-Blue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 August 2020 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by chris_k chris_k wrote:

Nope I'm sure it's 1M ohm at 500 v

I'm a Megger man myself

Yep looking, it starts and 500V and I can select 1KV and 250V by button pressing, I stupidly thought it started at the lowest and you went up...

Point is, not 9V on my Fluke 87!
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