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Looking for Feeback on a First Time Stack

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DSnow View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 November 2025 at 8:16pm
Hello, long time lurker finally taking the dip. Wacko

A little about me, I'm just a guy that is really good and building things. This will be my first large wood project and thankfully I have a lovely neighbor who has a full workshop who is excited to help. Here's my purchase list for the electronics. Where I live is filled with wine bars that turn into clubs at night but they dont have their own system and ask DJs to provide. We are compensated well for this but I'm tired of the traditional wedding dj style PA systems. 

I'm building 2 Cubo18 with 2 mid boxes and 2 horn boxes. I'm a vinyl dj and have always wanted a system to go with the type of music i play which is indie dance and disco edits. I dont need or want a dubstep wub, looking to tune the subs to around 38-40 for a tight kick. Thanks for taking a look, and open to opinions and suggestions.Smile 

BandModelSpecsQty
Woofer (Low)Beyma 18LEX1200Fe18", 8 Ω, 1200 W RMS, 97 dB SPL2 (1 per tower)
Midrange (Mid)Eminence Delta Pro-12A12", 8 Ω, 400 W RMS, 99 dB SPL2 (1 per tower)
Horn Driver (High)B&C DE85TN-82" exit titanium, 8 Ω, 220 W RMS, 107 dB SPL2 (1 per tower)
Horn/WaveguideB&C ME75 (90° × 40°)Aluminum flare, 2" throat, 4-bolt mount2
RoleModelSpecsQty
Active CrossoverBehringer CX3400 Super-X Pro V2Stereo 3-way, XLR I/O, 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley filters1
Limiter / Compressordbx 166xs Dual Compressor/Limiter/Gate2 ch linked stereo limiter with PeakStop brickwall protection1
BandAmp ModelPower (Stereo @ 8 Ω / 4 Ω)Qty
Low (18″ Woofers)Behringer EP4000 EUROPOWER550 W × 2 @ 8 Ω / 950 W × 2 @ 4 Ω1
Mid (12″ Mids)Crown XLi 800200 W × 2 @ 8 Ω / 300 W × 2 @ 4 Ω1
High (Horns)Behringer NX1000160 W × 2 @ 8 Ω / 300 W × 2 @ 4 Ω1
ItemModelQty
Power ConditionerFurman M-8x2 (8-outlet 1U)1
Rack CaseGator 6U–8U Shock Rack1
XLR Patch CablesHosa XLR-110 (10 ft)6–8
speakON Speaker CablesGLS Audio 25 ft NL2 12 AWG3 pairs
Color Tape / LabelsNeon ID Tape Set1
SectionTotal QtyNotes
---------------------------------------------------------
Drivers6 (3 bands × 2 towers)Matched 8 Ω drivers
Amps3 (stereo)6 channels total
Processor1 CX3400Stereo 3-way active
Limiter1 dbx 166xsFull-band brickwall
Rack AccessoriesPower + CablesMobile 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fudge22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 11:21am
Do you already own some of the equipment in this proposed system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSnow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 2:28pm
Hello no. I've also done more research and am thinking Keystones instead of Cubo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 3:07pm
To be honest, I cant see this as a good startup compared to what you are tired of. Aka wedding setups..
A typical setup of a 18" sub + 12"/driver will do just the same as your suggestions.

How much will it add up to?

I just did a quick price check:
12"+driver+horn.
Two amps.
X-over.

That adds up to just shy of 1400£. All parts brand new from Thomann and THLP.

Then you have to add wood cost, grills and other stuff to finish of a set of mid/high boxes.
At that amount of money you could get something as a set of RCF art-732a. mk. 5 



Edited by FOO - 13 November 2025 at 3:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fudge22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 4:28pm
If this is more of a vanity project than being super optimised for some chosen metric, or the best system to earn a living, then go with what makes you happy. However, if you are looking for work, model your system around what others who get regular work use. How big are the wine bars that you are hoping to perform at? They might not be super impressed if you if you turn up with something much bigger than a HK lucas nano.

Unless the construction of the loudspeakers is a part of the process, and not just a means to an end, I agree with FOO, buy a complete system, you won’t save on cost by building.

System wise, Given your choice of electronic components, it would seem that funds are limited. As such there are cheaper drive units that will perform just as well. 

If nothing else, check to see if P.audio do an equivalent horn. Same physical shape horn, same sound. Less cost. Acoustics do not check the brand.

A digital loudspeaker management system would be better than the crossover you spec’d and would include limiters and eq, but if you don’t know how to set it up, it would not be much of an advantage.

Ditch the limiter. Pre-recorded music is already compressed and vinyl precludes any sudden large peaks. Learn to operate the levels within the limits of your system.

I use a dsp to tune systems (see comment above), but graphics are easier to understand. You can get one with the money you save from not buying a limiter.

The choice of the EP4000 EUROPOWER is puzzling. On Thomann’s web site it is almost the same price as the NX6000, which puts out more power and is lighter. You could pair that with the 4ch version for about the same price as the amps you listed.

The Furman power conditioner is expensive for what it does. It just uses a couple of MOVs and capacitors. A cheap surge protected extension cable provides the same protection. Most of the case is just empty space, but if you want  your outlets in a rack mounted box, perhaps you think it is worth the expense.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSnow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 4:48pm
Hey all, I'm in the States and if I go with your ideas of in the box solutions (totally fair mind you) the cost through Sweetwater is $10,196.00.
That's for 2  RCF ART 932-A 2,100W 2-way 12-inch Powered Speaker
and 2 RCF SUB 8004-AS 2500W 18-inch Powered Subwoofer

I've already priced a diy stack and it comes to about 5k. Huge difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 6:44pm
First of all if you really should go with RCF, then forget ART932a.
The ART732. Mk.5 sounds better. Most people say it's bull****, but the fact is most people haven't heard the mk.5 yet. They just think it's the same box as mk.4, but it's not. I got both, and I don't use them together because of the difference. I wanted to upgrade to 932a but didn't after mk.5 launched. 

But enough of that..
If you want to use a driver like that beyma, you need more muscle.
It's never a good idea to use an amp with less power than the driver can handle RMS. For this specific Beyma I wouldn't hesitate to go with 1500 watt RMS for each driver. It's all about amplifier headroom. And that goes for the mid and hi sections also. Underpowering kill drivers.

And I would go for a LMS instead of a separate x-over and limiter. You can get some nice LMS unit for not alot. You get much more control Smile






Edited by FOO - 13 November 2025 at 6:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fudge22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 8:59pm
Quote Underpowering kill drivers.


Over powering can kill drive units too. One needs to learn to operate on that fine line of correct powering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2025 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by fudge22 fudge22 wrote:

Quote Underpowering kill drivers.


Over powering can kill drive units too. One needs to learn to operate on that fine line of correct powering.

Yes off course. I'm not saying you should go 100% overkill, but 50% won't hurt anything. But underpowering is just waiting to fry coils.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 2:23am
I'm just going to pile on here.
For all the work you are going to put into this rig, a pair of RCF 932s with a single 8004 could potentially eclipse it in performance and definitely will blow it out of the water in terms of out-of-the-box sound quality and durability. 
The one area where you lose out big time is with the DSP processing in a modern PA speaker, you simply will not match the modern systems linearity and protection with analog components and the limited tuning it provides. You should be able to dial in some decent sound quality over time but you'll be coming from waaaay behind, and your system will be more work to load in/out. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 2:41am
Originally posted by FOO FOO wrote:

But underpowering is just waiting to fry coils. 
Sorry but this is a fundamental misunderstanding of the problem, there is no issue unless the amplifier is overdriven but people can't stop themselves from turning it up more and more, with that kind of operator a bigger amplifier is just delaying the inevitable it's not preventing anything.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 12:08pm
Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

Originally posted by FOO FOO wrote:

But underpowering is just waiting to fry coils. 
Sorry but this is a fundamental misunderstanding of the problem, there is no issue unless the amplifier is overdriven but people can't stop themselves from turning it up more and more, with that kind of operator a bigger amplifier is just delaying the inevitable it's not preventing anything.


Agreed. As long as the amp is kept in check it's good.
But.. pushing an underpowered amp beyond it's limits is by far a bigger problem than overpowering a driver above its Continues rating. Im this case I recommended 1500watts for a 1200 watt driver.

But besides that I am 100% with you on the choice of gear.
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