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Looking for Feeback on a First Time Stack

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DSnow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSnow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 5:05pm
Hey everyone thank you for contributing to the conversation! I think i've dialed things back and am just going to build the subs and use the  Mackie SRM212 V-Class 2,000W 12" Powered Speaker 12 in I already have for the mids and horn. That said, will 2 keystones be good or should i go to 4? My idea is to work with what I have in some respect and build slowly



Edited by DSnow - 14 November 2025 at 5:10pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 6:14pm
Ooh you already have some fine gear?
Those Mackie boxes will do great.

I don't know the keystone design, but how much will it set you back to build a set + big enough amp + x over + all the bells and whistles?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fudge22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2025 at 6:57pm
Given that the OP has reached a decision I don’t feel so bad about going off topic.


Quote Sorry but this is a fundamental misunderstanding of the problem, there is no issue unless the amplifier is overdriven but people can't stop themselves from turning it up more and more, with that kind of operator a bigger amplifier is just delaying the inevitable it's not preventing anything.


Oh come on! Everyone knows that as long as you don’t clip the amplifier, it is impossible to blow up a drive unit. A gazillion watt amplifier with brick-wall limiter for the win.

Not in response to the above quote, but on the same topic, here are a few comments from two manufacturers. Mainly aimed at anyone who thought my statement above was serious.

To quote JBL’s sound system manual:

Quote Amplifier and Loudspeaker Power Ratings

A persistent question is: what amplifier power rating do I choose for use with a loudspeaker of a given power rating? The detailed answer is addressed in JBL’s Technical Note Volume 1, Number 16A; here, we will only summarize those recommendations:

1. For systems that will be stressed with full amplifier output for long periods of time, we recommend that the amplifier’s continuous output rating be chosen to be equal to the loudspeaker’s input power rating. Situations of this sort occur primarily in music reinforcement, where a constant, wide-band signal predominates.

2. For applications, such as speech reinforcement, where there is an operator who controls levels carefully, we can confidently recommend an amplifier with output capability that is twice (3 dB greater) than the loudspeaker’s continuous rating. The rational here is that peak power requirements, often slightly in excess of the loudspeaker’s continuous rating, can be handled with no problem, and it makes sense to provide amplification accordingly.

3. For certain critical monitoring applications, as in recording studios or film postproduction environments, amplifiers may be chosen that can deliver four-times (6 dB greater) power than the loudspeaker can withstand on a long-term continuous basis. The rational here is that the loudspeakers can ordinarily handle midrange and high frequency peaks of short duration that are much higher in instantaneous power than the long-term continuous rating of the loudspeaker. In most speech reinforcement applications, condition 2 above will apply. Note however that there is no absolute necessity to use the larger amplifier unless high acoustical peak levels are anticipated.


EAW states:

Quote Loudspeaker drivers, particularly compression drivers, can usually withstand momentary power peaks well in excess of those they are subjected to in EAW’s power handling testing. Some very dynamic audio signals have high momentary peak levels such as from percussion instruments. Some audio signals, such as speech, have large moment-to-moment variations in levels. To fully exploit the peak capabilities of the loudspeaker and to avoid amplifier clipping, an amplifier larger than the power rating may be needed to reproduce the peak levels in the audio signal.

For audio signals with low dynamics, such as heavy metal rock or highly compressed music, an amplifier with a rating at or below the power handling specification might be needed to avoid overstressing the loudspeaker’s thermal capabilities.

On the other hand, a loudspeaker rated at 500W continuous (or RMS, continuous, etc.) might be used to reproduce background music at low levels. In this case, perhaps only a 25 watt amplifier would be needed to reach the desired acoustic level.



What does not often get discussed, is that loudspeakers present a reactive as well as resistive load to the amplifier. Power factors of 0.4 -0.6 are not uncommon. Reactive loads do not dissipate energy. It is “reflected” back to the amplifier which then needs to dissipate it. On the whole class D amplifiers cope with this better than class AB. Larger amplifiers are designed to be able to dissipate more energy and cope with higher currents demands. This is why it is, in my opinion, why it is better to over-rate the amplifier. Simply so that it further away from its maximum capability and is less stressed.

But, as JBL stated,  “where there is an operator who controls levels carefully”

For some historical context the article “Music Power Rating – Help or Hindrance?”, by Norman H. Crowhurst, in Electronics World, October 1960 is worth a read.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2025 at 7:24pm
Originally posted by FOO FOO wrote:

But.. pushing an underpowered amp beyond it's limits is by far a bigger problem than overpowering a driver above its Continues rating. 
Technically anything up to the peak rating of the driver is just fully powered, but there is a list of qualifying statement that go with that.
- Low freq drivers will absorb a lot more abuse than smaller mid or high freq drivers.
- The program material and it's duty cycle matters.
- The presence/absence of driver protection matters.

I have witnessed what happens with lots of different speaker/amp combos..

1. Amp capable of 500w connected to fullrange speakers that were 1000w continuous, amp was pushed into solid clipping for extended periods but no drivers failed over a 6hr event. Sounded like ass.
2. Amp capable of 500w driving four 250w fullrange speakers. Amp never clipped but all tweeters died after about 2hrs simultaneously like a fuse blew, but there was no fuse the drivers just saw too much sustained power and were all blown. Sounded good right up to that point. 
3. Amp capable of 500w directly driving CD's rated at only 70w, DSP limited to 100w, no issue and sounded great.
4. Amp capable of 1000w on LF drivers rated 700w continuous, DSP limiting at amp clipping, program material was continuous(DJ) but dynamic, no issue and sounded great.

I love big amplifiers, I'll always recommend someone get the biggest amplifiers they can get thier hands on because in my experience it always makes a system sound better, but speaker protection then becomes manditory. 


Edited by Conanski - 17 November 2025 at 7:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSnow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2025 at 3:24pm
Hey everyone, I ended up getting a Crown I-Tech 6000 Two-Channel Power Amplifier which will power my 2 tapped horn subs running B&C 18SW115-4 18" Professional Neodymium Subwoofer 4 Ohm (3400 Watts handling) in each box. I don't plan on running the subs at 3400 watts and am hoping the 6000 watt amp i have will give me enough headroom for a small room.

I'm now looking at protection for my system and came across this https://furmanpower.com/products/asd-120-2-0 - Furman ASD-120 Do ya'll think it will be enough to protect a small system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2025 at 3:36pm
That gives much more sense than your first thoughts.
And the onboard DSP should give you the tools to tune and tweek to your likings.
You are on the right path now Thumbs Up

But I don't get what you want that Furman thing for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSnow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2025 at 4:40pm
The Furman "thing" is to protect the system from electrical issues outside of my control.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fudge22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2025 at 11:11pm
Quote The Furman "thing" is to protect the system from electrical issues outside of my control.


According to Furman’s description, this thing just sequences the outputs when you tun it on. It doesn’t mention anything about protection. You can do that for free by turning on the device at the start of the signal chain first and ending with the amplifiers, and turning everything off in reverse order.

It does advise - WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm.

What electrical issues do you think might arise, which are out of your control, that you need protection from?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BadmanSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2026 at 12:12am
Originally posted by DSnow DSnow wrote:

Hey everyone, I ended up getting a Crown I-Tech 6000 Two-Channel Power Amplifier which will power my 2 tapped horn subs running B&C 18SW115-4 18" Professional Neodymium Subwoofer 4 Ohm (3400 Watts handling) in each box. I don't plan on running the subs at 3400 watts and am hoping the 6000 watt amp i have will give me enough headroom for a small room.

I'm now looking at protection for my system and came across this https://furmanpower.com/products/asd-120-2-0 - Furman ASD-120 Do ya'll think it will be enough to protect a small system?

You need a voltage regulator.
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