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DSnow
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Joined: 12 November 2025 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 14 November 2025 at 5:05pm |
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Hey everyone thank you for contributing to the conversation! I think i've dialed things back and am just going to build the subs and use the Mackie SRM212 V-Class 2,000W 12" Powered Speaker 12 in I already have for the mids and horn. That said, will 2 keystones be good or should i go to 4? My idea is to work with what I have in some respect and build slowly
Edited by DSnow - 14 November 2025 at 5:10pm |
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Young Croc
Joined: 23 December 2018 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 951 |
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Posted: 14 November 2025 at 6:14pm |
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Ooh you already have some fine gear?
Those Mackie boxes will do great. I don't know the keystone design, but how much will it set you back to build a set + big enough amp + x over + all the bells and whistles?
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fudge22
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Joined: 26 July 2022 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Posted: 14 November 2025 at 6:57pm |
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Given that the OP has reached a decision I don’t feel so bad about going off topic.
Oh come on! Everyone knows that as long as you don’t clip the amplifier, it is impossible to blow up a drive unit. A gazillion watt amplifier with brick-wall limiter for the win. Not in response to the above quote, but on the same topic, here are a few comments from two manufacturers. Mainly aimed at anyone who thought my statement above was serious. To quote JBL’s sound system manual:
EAW states:
What does not often get discussed, is that loudspeakers present a reactive as well as resistive load to the amplifier. Power factors of 0.4 -0.6 are not uncommon. Reactive loads do not dissipate energy. It is “reflected” back to the amplifier which then needs to dissipate it. On the whole class D amplifiers cope with this better than class AB. Larger amplifiers are designed to be able to dissipate more energy and cope with higher currents demands. This is why it is, in my opinion, why it is better to over-rate the amplifier. Simply so that it further away from its maximum capability and is less stressed. But, as JBL stated, “where there is an operator who controls levels carefully” For some historical context the article “Music Power Rating – Help or Hindrance?”, by Norman H. Crowhurst, in Electronics World, October 1960 is worth a read. |
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Conanski
Old Croc
Joined: 26 January 2006 Location: Ottawa, Canada Status: Offline Points: 2757 |
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Posted: 17 November 2025 at 7:24pm |
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- Low freq drivers will absorb a lot more abuse than smaller mid or high freq drivers. - The program material and it's duty cycle matters. - The presence/absence of driver protection matters.
I have witnessed what happens with lots of different speaker/amp combos.. 1. Amp capable of 500w connected to fullrange speakers that were 1000w continuous, amp was pushed into solid clipping for extended periods but no drivers failed over a 6hr event. Sounded like ass. 2. Amp capable of 500w driving four 250w fullrange speakers. Amp never clipped but all tweeters died after about 2hrs simultaneously like a fuse blew, but there was no fuse the drivers just saw too much sustained power and were all blown. Sounded good right up to that point. 3. Amp capable of 500w directly driving CD's rated at only 70w, DSP limited to 100w, no issue and sounded great. 4. Amp capable of 1000w on LF drivers rated 700w continuous, DSP limiting at amp clipping, program material was continuous(DJ) but dynamic, no issue and sounded great. I love big amplifiers, I'll always recommend someone get the biggest amplifiers they can get thier hands on because in my experience it always makes a system sound better, but speaker protection then becomes manditory. Edited by Conanski - 17 November 2025 at 7:35pm |
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DSnow
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Joined: 12 November 2025 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 18 November 2025 at 3:24pm |
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Hey everyone, I ended up getting a Crown I-Tech 6000 Two-Channel Power Amplifier which will power my 2 tapped horn subs running B&C 18SW115-4 18" Professional Neodymium Subwoofer 4 Ohm (3400 Watts handling) in each box. I don't plan on running the subs at 3400 watts and am hoping the 6000 watt amp i have will give me enough headroom for a small room.
I'm now looking at protection for my system and came across this https://furmanpower.com/products/asd-120-2-0 - Furman ASD-120 Do ya'll think it will be enough to protect a small system?
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FOO
Young Croc
Joined: 23 December 2018 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 951 |
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Posted: 18 November 2025 at 3:36pm |
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That gives much more sense than your first thoughts.
And the onboard DSP should give you the tools to tune and tweek to your likings. You are on the right path now ![]() But I don't get what you want that Furman thing for?
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DSnow
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Joined: 12 November 2025 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 18 November 2025 at 4:40pm |
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The Furman "thing" is to protect the system from electrical issues outside of my control.
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fudge22
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Joined: 26 July 2022 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Posted: 18 November 2025 at 11:11pm |
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According to Furman’s description, this thing just sequences the outputs when you tun it on. It doesn’t mention anything about protection. You can do that for free by turning on the device at the start of the signal chain first and ending with the amplifiers, and turning everything off in reverse order. It does advise - WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. What electrical issues do you think might arise, which are out of your control, that you need protection from? |
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BadmanSS
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Joined: 24 January 2026 Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Posted: 09 March 2026 at 12:12am |
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You need a voltage regulator.
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