Methods of reducing driver temperature

Hiya guys,


I've just upgraded all the drivers in my martin audio WSX from the ancient dls801 to B&C 18tbx100 and loving the results sound and output wise, but noticed a lot of heat being given off- so much so that I had to hold back on output. Access panels (wooden) were hot to the touch before very long. Pretty sure the cabs had loads yet to give.

Obviously I know the solution to this would be to replace access panels with aluminium heatsync panels, but as the handles are mounted in the panels its not a straightforward task. I did, however, buy a 5mm aluminium sheet to do a dummy run to test results, but if im going to go ahead with that method I guess it would be more cost effective to just go ahead with the whole lot at once and get them CNCd If I can find somewhere to do it.

I replaced the drivers (obviously with the required spacer ring) and replaced the wadding as it was beforehand, picture attached, and was wondering whether removal of some of the wadding, say 50%, would help dissipate the heat better as there would be less insulation? or would this be a negligible difference?

Also pointers on the heatsync solution would be handy. Thickness of metal, how easy it would be to CNC and so on, ive heard differing opinions on it. Or any other opinions on solution would be great. 

Thanks guys

What DSP settings are you using? If your hpf is too high you could be creating a thermal build up? Martin recommend 22hz LR 24 that helps with the venting  

Edited by KDW32 - 17 October 2023 at 6:57am

KDW32 wrote: What DSP settings are you using? If your hpf is too high you could be creating a thermal build up? Martin recommend 22hz LR 24 that helps with the venting   I've used WSX B&C loaded a few times in large blocks, full pelt never had a problem with drivers overheating even in euro heatwaves.

I think the hpf was set to 35hz so this may have been the issue! I didn't realise that this was the case? Have you got a link or more info to these martin recommendations?

FOO wrote: Making some aluminum hatches isn't a problem at all. If I was to do this upgrade, I would have them drawn up with CAD. Find a place which can cut the hatches with water jet. Then you have the outside all ready to go. Then you need to have them machined. CNC will be the way to go. Cutouts for handles, bolt holes and maybe some cooling fins will be easy to do. Just need to make sure that the aluminium doesnt warp when removing material from one side only. Maybe adding some braces on the backside when machining is done.  This is a easy task to do, but it ain't cheap at all.  Aluminum in the required thickness is expensive. Cutting and machining also. I could make them for you, but to be honest I think the price would be too steep for this upgrade to make sense. How many do you need ?

I would be interested in the price for this. It would be for 18 panels so not a short run. Could you quote me? 

so much of the hatch is going to be handles have you considered just cutting an aluminium panel into the wooden hatch between the handles. will be much smaller in area and therefore can be made out of thinner aluminium (6mm or possibly 4mm with fins on the inside) - which will have less thermal resistance. much cheaper than making the whole hatch out of thicker aluminium.

Finally, removing the wadding from the back panel will help a little (since this is the only panel which reliably sees air on the other side when it's in the middle of a stack). Removing from next to other panels will see benefit too, but to a lesser extent.