Midrange Box

in your haste to reach the speakerplans forums you have missed the meat
of the main site! check the plans section in speakerplans.com, there you
will find a front loaded horn suitable for 2x10" drivers, although the
eminence driver recommended is the kappa 10.

why the difference? read the faq and all will become clear. or clearer at
any rate...

james.

Well Kappa Pro 10 has QTS of 0.20, BL of 18.8 and EBP of 225

Whereas Delta 10 has QTS of 0.33, BL of 14.4 , and EPB of 189

It will sound different using the Delta 10's, but the main difference is the QTS is much higher on the Delta 10's.

novice wrote: so i should go for the kappas because low qts for mids is a good thing right? i want a box like the mt 102 but i want it without the horn and on its side with the 10s side by side rather than one above the other. i have a horn box with a flare and a bullet in it. any ideas??

Low Qts means more sensitive generally(more efficient)but less bass.

ok i think i'll go for the kappas then.

ive started building the mt 102 minus the top horn
section so its almost a cube shape.

what kind of ply / thickness do i need for the
curved parts and does anyone know the length for
it?

thanks for all the help so far..

Edited by novice

By far one of the most dramatic effects in the entire cosmos that will make you the envy of all your cohorts, neighbors, in-laws, main squeeze mama/poppa, or anyone else you want to impress the liederhosen off of, is when you employ the bent wood or radius effect in your projects. (You may even find them at your feet chanting, "we're not worthy!"....Who knows, after you master this section you might want to run for political office!!)

But isn't wood bending an outrageously difficult process that takes a big shop and lot of expensive stuff?...you ask?

My answer......yes and no.   There are various methods of achieving the bent wood effect.  As for solid wood bending, there are two time honored methods (and the only ones I know of).

You could set up a chamber and steam or chemically treat the wood component until pliable enough to then bend it into your custom made jig or form until it has cooled and dried. Then hope that when you break your work out of the jig it will continue to hold the desired shape.

Or...you could create a clamp jig or form, and slice your solid wood into thin strips of veneer and glue the strips together as you clamp them in the form until dry.

OR...you can go back and review THE INsies AND OUTsies OF APPLYING WOOD VENEER,  go out and purchase some "wiggle wood"  at your local plywood source, take it back to your shop and crank out a lot of incredibly cool and curvy creations.

WIGGLE WOOD?!!...Now I'm convinced that this guy has sawdust on the brain!!...you think to yourself?

Not so...Oh skeptical future Congressperson!!

"Wiggle wood" or what is more commonly called "bending stock " is the coolest stock material this wood miser has ever encountered in his long illustrious career.  Standard run of the mill plywood consists of thinly sliced sheets of wood pressed and glued together arranged with the grain of each layer running perpendicular for strength and rigidity.

But somewhere along the line some brilliant genius type asked the question, "what would happen if you ran the grain of all the layers in the same direction?"...And presto...wiggle wood was born!!

Wiggle wood, (heretofore bending stock), is quite simply 3/8" luan species plywood with the grain running in the same direction throughout all of the layers which allows it to "wiggle" or freely bend. As a matter of fact it is somewhat hard to handle because it's like trying to manage a giant wet noodle!

Bending stock sheets come in two configurations,  4ft x 8ft and 8ft x 4ft.  One with the grain running the length, and one with the grain running the width.

I first heard about this stuff from some guys in a top shop who used it for creating really cool and curvy geometric furniture and counter tops for office buildings.  In their applications they would finish the products with a "Formica type" plastic laminate, but good old fashioned horse sense told this wood miser that it should work just as well with hardwood veneers.

I think that it is safe to say that unless you happen to have an extremely enlightened and courageous retail venue in your area, you're going to have to once again employ the dumb phone call method of locating a source for bending stock. But even if it takes a while, don't give up.  This stuff is widely used in custom cabinet shops in your area and they have to get it from somewhere.

When you think about it, the possibilities of this stuff are endless! Anything from your basic modern cool cylinder shaped coffee table to a Frank Lloyd Wright type, art deco period two story dog house for Fido in the backyard (Turning Spot next door absolutely green with envy!)

The trick is to create a skeletal framework or ribbing to wrap the bending stock around, and then apply your hardwood veneer over the bending stock... Obviously there is going to be a little more to it than just this, but have no fear misers and miserettes,  we'll get more into the details as we move through this page.

A basic geometric shape like a round end table is going to be pretty much a piece of cake. But if you are creating a piece of cabinetry or furniture needing doors with access to the interior the ribbing can get a little tricky. But for our purposes here, let's just keep it simple.

For the results one can reap from this process the whole shebang takes surprisingly few tools.  Your main squeeze power tool is going to be your jigsaw. Those web clamps mentioned in the "Clamp it Jed" index topic are a must here!  You might want to keep most of your arsenal of clamps within easy reach.  Also you will eventually need whatever tools you have acquired for applying wood veneer.

Now...hold on to your socks misers and miserettes because the price of bending stock can be a bit unsettling when it first hits you. Last price I got on it per sheet was about $35 sawbucks and this was at a very reasonable supplier. I know that it sounds like a lot but when you factor in all of the things you can do with it (not to mention that a single 4 x 8 sheet just might be enough to cover a couple of medium to small projects), in my opinion, it's well worth it.

Since the bending stock comes in 3/8" thickness it is a good idea (but not absolutely necessary if you want to save some sawbucks) to plan on two layers so you'll end up with the equivalent of 3/4" plywood for your carcass thickness.  This will work to your advantage in several ways. You can "stagger" the butt seams of the bending stock layers or make sure they meet on opposite sides of the project which will help immensely to make them disappear when the veneer is applied. The two layers glued against each other will permanently arrest the tension created by pulling the bending stock skin over the ribbing.

Hey djk,

I assume you copied and pasted all that info, and not typed it all out ... but how did you do that?  I can't seem to be able to paste inside the text box on a reply.

Graeme