MIGHTY DUB PASS |
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jsg mashed
Registered User Joined: 18 May 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 305 |
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Fe fi fo fum I smell some comments on the MIGHTY DUB PASS thread! Just to recap; MIGHTY DUB PASS is a parallel-tuned or type A bandpass with all output cascaded into a further chamber/port resonator. I believe it is the same topology as the Bose thing pictured.
However, just as you can make horns, sealed boxes and reflex boxes sound good or bad depending on the alignment you choose, so it is with 8th-order bandpasses. I've designed and built quite a few over the years, and I generally choose a different efficiency/sound quality tradeoff from Bose.
MIGHTY DUB PASS has large circular ports, but they could probably be replaced by eg square, hexagonal, octagonal etc. The one directly in front of the driver cone is designed to make the cone loading symmetrical, mainly due to scare stories about cone damage - you may feel that as long as you don't overload the driver and there isn't a baffle right up against it (eg with letterbox throats) it's not an issue. That's what I feel but I can't guarantee your drivers obviously!
I will emphasise that MIGHTY DUB PASS goes very low by design - I designed for -3dB at 30Hz using my own airload model. On measuring MIGHTY DUB PASS's precursor (Bandpass Bertha) we measured 30Hz lower cutoff in spite of designing for 34Hz. This difference can be for a number of reasons but the same adjustment would give just over 26Hz for the MIGHTY DUB PASS which is rather low. I'll be happy to experiment with higher tunings that would trade in some of this extension for more sensitivity if people are interested.
Finally, I'll re-iterate that the port lengths in the plan are approximate, and the tuning frequencies listed are authoritative. That means the first person to build a MIGHTY DUB PASS will need to experimentally tune it by adjusting the ports until it resonates at the specified frequencies. I can help with this. Also, the design is for running in groups of 4, but the adjustment for flat in 2s or singles is simple (just lengthen final output port a little).
Have fun out there.
Edit: accidentally didn't spell out MIGHTY DUB PASS in full. And fix italics. And clarification.
Edited by jsg mashed - 06 August 2009 at 11:12pm |
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...because Good is Dumb.
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VPAS
Registered User Joined: 05 December 2005 Status: Offline Points: 1203 |
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MIGHTY DUB PASS is mearly a concept and does not deserve capital letters until it is proven imo
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n^2 modulo -P = number wang
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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well i better FINISH MINE THEN.
james.
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mardy hippy.
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bitzo
Registered User Joined: 20 November 2007 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 977 |
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We'll be waiting for it!
Did you built round chamber or squared? what about the vents shape? cheers, bitzo |
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Jake_Fielder
Old Croc Joined: 08 October 2007 Status: Offline Points: 4231 |
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Cant wait to hear about this build and testing etc. well done james
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cunDJ
New Member Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: west mids Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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They do sound interesting... So interesting in fact, after many a tireless eyedrying hour spent on this forum being an audiophiliac, with a serious sound hardware fetish... I write my first post. If they sound as good as they would appear to then bravo on the design dude. I built half of a prototype sub myself and my brother designed a while back. The brief was: pd186 spacific (thats the driver we had), horn loaded, capable of 27-300hz (ish) from a single cab/pair, able to fit 2 side by side in a tranny ;).... So after much deliberation and coffee we invented front and rear loaded horn cab, the driver is located in the bottom end horn (rear loaded and a modification of the 18 scooper... longer and much bigger mouth) 1200 tall (all mouth) 650 wide and 1100 deep... big and heavy. Top horn is a modification of the hd15 as this is the clear choice for kick and solid base to work from. My brother did all the extra clevver bit with regards to horn tuning and phase calibration typee jazz so from 27-72hz the bottom horn was loaded and the top horn acted only to increase pressure to front of driver... at freq's about 72 the top horn would take over and do from then til 300.... All sounds like a good idea but after building the bottom horn (built outa 18mm weatherproof, about 20 laminate in some places and not a great deal of voids) i came to realise drivers rear would not have any pressure behind it when running freq's for the top horn and therefore would lose efficeincy no? Also i just wanted a scoop to go real super deep, which it does remarkably well, 15 trap tops will do from 70hz fine, just not as pokey. Ive put sine throughy it an "listened" to the response and it will throw down to 28hz without the top horn and subsiquent load on the front of the driver. I still havnt got round to building the top horn as i moved house. I now have an old makita to replace my ever failing woolworths £10 jobby so should be a doddle when i get back on it! I bought some JBL sound power 2x18 subs (reflex shelf port similar to g-sub... if thats the one i mean)that claim to do 34hz -3db.... ive bumped them from 30-58 and they just dont have anywhere near the low end as the single 186 does. It rattles old bolts in the beams 3 floors up its mental...
ANYWAY...Blowing smoke guy... i think we all know how constructive negativity like that is. Critical input, ok but dont just be bitchy its futile and destructive. Designer man, you really have to get some of these built and tested to support any sort of horn beating BP design claim however. You just cant beat a bunch of fat horns sounding off... such a shame they are by nature so large and heavy. However these are the laws of sound physics and horns are boss. If anyone is actually interested in my design and wishes to see some pics/schematics let me know (ill have to ask bro first) he drew it all up on google sketch up too! Also any suggestions? Should probably make a new thread... Hope im not treading on any feet or owt. Free truth. Live in love. Inabit. |
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cunDJ
New Member Joined: 20 January 2009 Location: west mids Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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sorry for length and lack of paragraphage
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bitzo
Registered User Joined: 20 November 2007 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 977 |
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Could you post pic and/or drawing?
+1 for another thread in the scoop section :) could be very interesting. cheers, bitzo Edited by bitzo - 21 October 2009 at 10:29am |
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510
Registered User Joined: 22 September 2009 Location: jamaica Status: Offline Points: 41 |
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if you want kick and a sub at the same time eawkf940 will do the trick 4u nicely 27hz - 200hz what more could you want the perfect box kf940
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Ibex
Young Croc Joined: 27 May 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1013 |
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...funny enough that they recommend a cut-off @ 100Hz |
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510
Registered User Joined: 22 September 2009 Location: jamaica Status: Offline Points: 41 |
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i have the manual some were the box plays to 200 hz if needed but if you want to pick grapes go a head you will never be able to build a bass box that plays as good as this end of that game
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510
Registered User Joined: 22 September 2009 Location: jamaica Status: Offline Points: 41 |
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please go and dwn the spec sheet from eaw 24hz to 300 is what it says 100 hz is the measurement at 1metre 1 what 113 dp is this out put so have fun dub
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