mitre angles in the mt122 flare |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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Posted: 12 April 2005 at 6:40pm |
calling anyone who has tackled the 122 or variants. our scaled 10" single
boxes are turning into a never ending project. the geometry is.... taxing. the trapezoidal pieces of 12mm material which make up the inner parts of the vertical flare, that is from the throat to half way down the horn, must have those trapezoidal edges cut at a mitre in order to sit flush against the top and bottom flare. what is that mitre angle? it is surely only a few degrees but from the way my outer flares flop about i know it will affect solidity. i have tried to work it out and come up with some really skewy numbers so i wondered if anybody knew from experience. mt122s. not one square bit of wood. sigh! james. |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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oh come on, i can't believe that you all just planed them to fit or for that
matter put up with ill-fitting pieces. somebody must have at least a vague idea... 2 degrees? 3 degrees? 3.5? james. |
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Fushion Julz
Registered User Joined: 19 August 2004 Status: Offline Points: 647 |
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not sure what you mean...But the sides (outsides of the cabinet) are
vertical, so there are no mitres to cut for for the top and bottom of
the flares...These, in turn, are horizontal (90 degrees) to the sides,
so the vertical parts of the flare have no mitres, only a slope, on the
top and bottom edges...The mitres are needed on the back and front
edges only...
See some pics of my construction at: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/julz_angell/speakers.htm |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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hi julz, thanks for heeding my anguished cries. i suppose i should scan a
drawing of the bit i mean to describe it better. i shall try and get this together tomorrow morning but i need my housemates help to host it, and thus post a link to it. i am utterly convinced that the inner pieces of the horn flare both need to have their 'hypotenuse' edges cut at a slight angle because they don't sit at a perfect right angle to the top and bottom flares. not much, but some. arguably we've gone about these boxes in a fairly arse about face way, but they are prototypes in terms of suitability to driver model and choice of material. they are using mckenzie c10-150gp cones because i have 12 of them, just as the selenium horns will use mckenzie c15-400lrs because i have 16 of them. 4 in use, so 6 bass horns, 4 mid and one 1 rcf compression driver a side with a choice of 18" xb scoops or 12" wicked ones doing subs. it may prove mis-matched but we shall see what gives. mdf has been used as it's the only way we can afford to hear what 4 a side sound like this side of christmas, they are a tad weighty though, and i despise it generally as a material. i think the seleniums will have to be ply for weight reasons. in addition to the seleniums being more of a proven desighn they are by all rights easier to construct than a 10" single variant of the mt122, and we are seriously counting on them not taking anything like as long. this small pile of drivers has been sat for an age whilst we deliberate over designs, finally urgency to upgrade the feeble eminence 12" beta lt loaded horns became overwhelming so we set about making these 10s. james. |
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jeth
Registered User Joined: 13 February 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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hey james...I reckon the angle you're looking for
must be 12degrees...As this is the angle the first side flare section is at from the centre line. the flare meets the baffle at 12deg. off right angle, so you take off the 12deg. from the ends to leave them square with the baffle. hope this makes sense! |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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hi jeth,
thanks for your help, but i think we aren't thinking about the same joint. i think you are talking about where the horn flare (inner vertical section) reaches the baffle which i would agree would be 12 degrees. i mean where that piece meets the top and bottom flares. at first glance you'd probably not think it requires mitring (sp!) but practical experience indicates the necessity. i will draw a sketch this weekend. promise. james. |
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Dom
Old Croc Joined: 25 February 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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Sorry I cant help. I built 8 doubles and 4 singles and it was a period of my life i'd rather forget. They are a pain in the arse and involved cutting every piece to fit with minute adjustments to the saw... |
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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."
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jeth
Registered User Joined: 13 February 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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James...i see the bit you mean now...but really can't
see why this needs mitreing though...it is afterall all in the horizontal plane, that is, the side flares meet the top/botttom sections at right angles..Surely? |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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alas, it is not so. i sort of visualised myself standing in a flare looking
along an exagerated vertical component, say 45 degrees. if i was standing vertically on axis with the flare's planes and raised my arms, the one on the flare side would be higher than the one on the box's side because it sits further out from the driver and the horn is wider. at the inner 12 degree flare the effect scales down, to only a few degrees it would seem. nevertheless if you want the various parts of the box to sit perfectly flush it is a matter of the minute saw adjustments of which dom speeks to get those bits mitred correctly. i am half convinced that if i sat down with a clear head i could do the maths and work the damned thing out, but i dread it as my last attempt was so clearly wrong i fear i have forgotten the basic rules of geometry. as i rarely have a clear head i chanced sparing the agony by picking the noggins of some people who knew them intimately. clearly the harrowing memories of fabrication.... technicalities, has stilled the otherwise eager tongues of veteran box builders in some form of cathartic mass hypnosis. which is a shame. i think it'll have to be trial and error and i'll record our findings if they be of any significance. walt, if you're reading this, you will have encountered this phenomena on the x-tro 8" section but to a greater extent owing to the conical shape and greater flare rate. what angle does that need to be? james. |
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Dom
Old Croc Joined: 25 February 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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hmmm. Now you're dredging up painful memories.... i innocently thought along the same lines. Surely a maths degree + a pen, paper and some basic trig could sort out my cutting list... After narrowly escaping a brain embolism I gave up and opted for trial and error... |
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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."
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jeth
Registered User Joined: 13 February 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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no good mate...call me stoopid but i reckon i need a
sketch to work this one out.. |
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james folkes
Old Croc Joined: 08 January 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3064 |
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ok, sketch still pending, but then i have college tomorrow so i figure it
will get done in class. did some cutting today though and did about 3 degrees on the trapezoidal edge. it is very nearly enough, there is the slightest gap between the two pieces on the inner faces. i shall try 3.25 next. although i have already cut all my outer horn flares, hence how i know they need a taper to fit, i would have figured they would need mitring on their trapezoidal edges to about 6.5 degrees. james. |
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