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Mounting issue

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OesziE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OesziE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Mounting issue
    Posted: 21 March 2024 at 4:06pm
Hello Speakerbuilders,

I am new here and this is my first post.Can you please help?
How do you mount a eminence kappa pro lf2 on a baffle that you can only access on one side? The driver has 7.1mm mounting holes and finding inserts like: https://www.rampa.com/eu/en/RAMPA-INSERTS-TYPE-SKD/440506010100 for M7 bolts seems to be a pain in the ... The baffle is made out of 18mm okoume plywood.

How do you guys normally would attach a driver like this is this kind of situation?

I tried to keep the story short but if you need more info then please ask.

Thank you,

Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cravings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2024 at 4:13pm
Just to say m6 fixings is what you want there..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2024 at 9:29pm
Hi Dennis,

Before you install the speaker you will have access on the other side of the baffle through the speaker hole, so :

- Go buy 8x M6 size T-Nuts (or Captive Nuts) for wood : 


- Place the speaker on the baffle and mark the hole positions on the baffle with a pen/crayon/sharpie

- Drill the 8 holes with a drill bit the same size as the outer diameter of the T-Nut (marked with "A" in the above image) <this should be about 8-9mm for an M6 T-Nut>
<Remark: do not hammer them in place, ever!>

- Insert the T-Nut on the inside of the baffle. From the outside insert an M6 bolt with a washer on it

- Tighten the bolt until in pulls the T-Nut all the way into the wood and secures it there

- Remove the bolt and washer

- Repeat for all the holes

- Now you can install the speaker and insert the 8x M6 bolts, then tighen them

- Make sure you don't push too hard on the bolts otherwise they will force the T-Nut of out of the baffle and you'll have to take the speaker off and re-secure the T-Nut

Additionally, you can add a bit of glue of your choice to the outside of the T-Nut before inserting it in the wood, something like an bi-component epoxy or any other glue that will stick to both wood and metal.

Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OesziE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2024 at 6:29am
Super awesome guys, Thank you for the quick response. I had no idea that I need to use M6 for this. I will give it a go, I guess I made the wrong assumption, is this a common misunderstanding?

Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote monkeypuzzle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2024 at 7:38am
Whilst I have used this method for many years, m6 threaded inserts do work better, it’s worth just looking at this option as well. If you’re up based you can get them from screw fix. Buy a pack of both and see which you find easier.
blah blah blah blah blah......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2024 at 4:52pm
In which type of wood boards have you used those threaded inserts ? I was reluctand in using them so far, especially for MDF or particleboard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote njw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2024 at 6:07pm
 I've actually just refurbished some MDF cabs, I used new threaded inserts on the baffle and had no problems at all, I find it helps to put a fair amount of pressure on the insert as you start winding it in to prevent it from just spinning and pulling chunks of the MDF out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OesziE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2024 at 5:44am
Hi Guys,

Are quarter inch (6.35mm) bolts also a solution. it seems to me that this is better fitting for the 7.1mm mounting holes. Or is this another wrong assumption?

Thanks,

Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monkeypuzzle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2024 at 8:14am
I’ve mostly used them in ply but never had issues with them in MDF, if you’re using partial board to build a speaker baffle then it’s not going to be great whatever you use but T bolts would be better certainly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote njw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2024 at 11:43am
Originally posted by OesziE OesziE wrote:

Hi Guys,

Are quarter inch (6.35mm) bolts also a solution. it seems to me that this is better fitting for the 7.1mm mounting holes. Or is this another wrong assumption?

Thanks,

Dennis

 There's no need for the bolts to be the same size as the holes in the speaker chassis, in fact, using slightly smaller bolts gives you a bit of wiggle room should the mounting holes not be centred 100%.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2024 at 3:54pm
Originally posted by OesziE OesziE wrote:

Are quarter inch (6.35mm) bolts also a solution. it seems to me that this is better fitting for the 7.1mm mounting holes. Or is this another wrong assumption?


It also depends on where you're located - if in the USA, then probably easier for you to find imperial 1/4" bolts and nuts; rather thn M6.

You don't need a bolt that fills the mounting hole, just one that has the bolt head larger than that hole, so it will grab on the driver surround and press it against the baffle.
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