My First Build--G-SUB |
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bmholbro
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2014 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Posted: 19 March 2018 at 3:09pm |
Thought I would share my first build project. In the process I re-confirmed my carpentry skills are wanting and my wife agrees I am too slow finishing projects! As this was a first attempt I gave the Lowes "Blondewood" a try versus paying for birch I would probably botch. Overall, I didn't find to many voids and it seems pretty workable with the routing. It does seem lighter than the good stuff. As far as I can tell this is a birch veneer with layers of Poplar core.
Will be relying on bondo to patch up my errors but overall it is coming out better than I had feared. When I build two more, I will search harder for a wood shop to do the cuts for me. Will update with more as I progress. Right now I have 1 shell complete and the 2nd needs the bracing finished. I'm going to get the 2nd one caught up with the 1st then work on the handles, speak-on plate, and speaker pole cups. I have a large container of bed liner paint in the garage leftover from another project for the eventual finish. I'm undecided on what I will do the grills with. |
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Dreadnaught
Panther City Productions |
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bmholbro
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2014 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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I had the opportunity to do a bit more work on my project this past weekend. Mostly because the family is tired of me taking over the entire garage. Overall I am pleased with how they are shaping up... Bondo seemed to do a great job covering up my carpentry shortcomings and I was very liberal applying the construction adhesive. I managed to get all the hardware cut outs done, sanded all my excess goo and high spots, and started the first coat of bedliner application. I used some leftover black satin spray on the inside of the cabinet that may be visible through the port.
Learnings: Apply the T Nuts to the baffles before they are installed on the cabinet. Do the extra work to recess the screws properly... I thought I would be able to just tighten them down and still cover them up, but a couple of them on each cabinet still show through a bit. Items to be determined: Will my cheap soldering gun work on the cable I was planning to salvage? How many additional coats of bedliner to apply? Final plan for a grill. For the handles I ended up putting one pair on the top and bottom and the other on the sides. I originally planned to put both pair on the sides as recommended by others here, but I was surprised by the light weight of the cabinet and thought I would prefer the flexibility of handles on multiple sides versus easier lifting. In my case I will not be stacking them as high as some of you I'm sure. Hopefully, next weekend I will be able to make some noise with these and my old Yamaha with the budget drivers in it. |
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Dreadnaught
Panther City Productions |
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mini-mad
Old Croc Joined: 13 July 2012 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 6903 |
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Nice to see someone making some saw dust!!
They are shaping up quite nicely and it's also a good learning curve. On the next set of boxes you will know what you want and what order to get them done In, so work will progress faster and tidier. Can't wait to hear you opinion on the budget vs. Yammy drivers... a nice big open space if you can. Keep up the good work my friend! When it's all plugged in and cranked up that sense of self satisfaction puts a big ole smile across ya face. |
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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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bmholbro
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2014 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Another update. Unfortunately, I hit a snag trying to throw the Rockville drivers in the Yamaha cabinet... they fit in the cabinet, but the holes for the screws are off just enough that I can't get more than 1 or 2 screw in. Will work on that after my next gig.
Trying to wrap up the G Sub Build--both drivers are in, triangles added for where the grill will go. I was worried about speaker rattle so adhered some cut rubber triangles from a garage door seal as a type of cushion. I later decided to order foam backing for the grill so may regret having that on there as it looks like I may have to pull them off. Really pleased with how they finished out, despite my at times questionable carpentry. The bedliner cabinet is sticking well and seems very tough. I am not positive I like this versus duratex paint, but wanted to try this for better durability. The stuff seems tough but it is super rough. Finished painting the grills--found a great deal on ebay for a semi-local guy that had a mess of galvanized perforated metal for like $3/square foot. I painted it with Rustoleum brand paint intended for touching up outdoor cooking grills etc. This has a very flat finish on it and I thought would look a bit similar in tone to powder coating. Hooked both of them up to my rack and did a test with both units. I had previously only tested 1 cabinet and was very soft on it due to time of day. I hooked one of these up to an Inuke 6000 with limiter set @2200 watts and crossed at 80 hz (my techno settings). I am planning to set the low cross ~33.5 hz or so, but did play with the cabinets to see what kind of sound came out. 32 hz made noise but was very soft... definitely not something they should be run at. 34 Hz sounded way stronger than I thought it should. I kicked both of them on hooked up to some dark hard techno and was pleasantly surprised. They shook the garage and I will be shocked if my neighborhood facebook group didn't light up with messages from people asking what the noise was. Only opened the INUKE gain up to a shade over half and it put a big grin on my face. I was a little worried my amps would be a little weak moving these drivers, but that proved unfounded. Both cabs feature L18P400 built to the Gsub design with the normal (longer) port. I played with Win ISD and it looked ok going this route vs the shorter ports for the L18P300. I assumed the higher Xmax vs the 300 would make this passable... T/S wise the P400 seems in the range of the Fane's everyone uses on here. I wanted a slightly deeper tone and was ok sacrificing a little top end. Will update when I get the test for the Rockville drivers. PS--I read in some other threads on here people asking to compare a Gsub versus a Yamaha budget box.... the responses given were accurate. These are much more solid sounding than my Yamaha's and definitely have significantly better output. Granted, I would have been a heck of a lot cheaper buying the pair of used Yamaha cabinets a guy had loaded with low riders I looked at before starting this project.
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Dreadnaught
Panther City Productions |
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odc04r
Old Croc Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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Nice work, always good to get a project finished. I wouldn't necessarily stick to 80Hz low pass as a solid rule, when you get them out in anger properly you might find out they are happy to play a bit higher then that. All depends what's sitting on top of them really. Have a play and see.
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Hemisphere
Old Croc Joined: 21 April 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2272 |
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Looking forward to hearing the results of the Rockvilles. After all my uninformed bluster and speculation about them, a large part of me is hoping to be proved to be full of it and see them deliver good results. Although I might go off on one about Chinese factory floor conditions just to piss on your picnic if that happens
I'd especially be interested to hear how a single RCF fares against a pair of Rockvilles when all are pushed to their limits (and long enough for power compression to max out), as that was the basis of the whole dispute.
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bmholbro
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2014 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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I have several settings in the amp dsp, 80 hz is my techno/house setting, and the higher cross settings are for more “general” music. For techno, I really like the bass to be clean and not muddy sounding when they hit. I will play with it though and see if it will help to take some load off the tops.
My tops are a pair of Macie HD1531 powered mains. I either run them in full range or with a cross just below the sub cross depending on setting. The only reason I apply the cross is to get a little more out of the tops before they limit in more open volume applications. I’ve never ran them with 4 dual subs before though so suspect I may need to take a load off them to keep up. Will update as soon as I run the Rockville’s—right now they “look” ok for what they are. If they make decent sound and don’t burn up someone may argue they are worth what they cost. I definitely don’t expect them to keep up with the RCF, but they also cost a fraction of the RCF. If they are close to matching the stock Yamaha that would be a nice ceiling for these things. Granted, the stock Yamaha is not a stellar driver compared to the things most of you use on these forums. |
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Dreadnaught
Panther City Productions |
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odc04r
Old Croc Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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You'll find a happy overlap with the tops at some point, try various crossover slopes too. Maybe a shallower roll off on the subs and a sharper one on the tops to get some overlap around the kick bass region. Ideally it'd all be done using proper measurement techniques but you can get a long way just with your ears, as used to be the only choice :)
I used to happily run 15s up to 110Hz or even sometimes a little higher for house and techno duties with 24db roll off but ymmv. |
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bmholbro
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2014 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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I thought I was finished with the project but encountered a little bit of vibration noise coming from the accoustic foam between the grill and cone housing. I removed the accoustic foam and the noise went away. I didn’t have a good way to really adhere it to the perforated metal but am sure there is a good way to do this? I am pretty sure the noise is coming from the foam being pulled away from the grill by the cone movement.
Thoughts on pros/cons of using foam in the final design? |
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Dreadnaught
Panther City Productions |
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vertx
Young Croc Joined: 14 March 2012 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 578 |
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I've had issues with acoustic foam when the xmax is high - the cone hits the foam and distorts. Not one GSubs but a some 8" coax.
Maybe make sure you've got enough room for driver flange + driver xmax + foam depth + grill depth in your baffle/grill gap. Personally I like the look of foam behind the grill! |
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concept-10
Young Croc Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 1293 |
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Scotch weld 77 adhesive, spray on to inside of grill and press on the foam, Markie told me about this, works perfect.
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odc04r
Old Croc Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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I'd use decent thickness rubber/gasket tape over all of the surfaces where the grill sits. Also I think you need a few more screw in it. Especially at the thinner ends of the cab it looks like the grill is not quite flat so a few more screws around to tension it could be your friend to stop it flapping about under pressure. Probably you want a fixing at least every ft.
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