My first rig... progress thread |
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gen0me
Young Croc Joined: 20 February 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 999 |
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But sb1000 has ports like normal br instead of those
Which is probably tapped horn with chamber. |
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DMorison
Old Croc Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1647 |
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Could be, depends on the internal layout - it could still be mostly BR for the actual acoustic loading. TW claim "Hybrid" which is really a meaningless term - it could be very like the EAW's in that the angled cavity just gives a little more gain at the high end of the response, all the way to being mostly tapped horn (or even dare I say it like two miniscoops mouth to mouth ;-) ). Absent an internal layout or an impedance trace, all we can do is speculate, which doesn't really help the OP. Anyway, the point of putting it in the thread was just as a visual example of how one can create a more interesting appearance without making significant changes to the complexity of the modelling/build, which I think this still does.
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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That's a damn nice cab! The V arrangement looks sweet. doubt i could confidently simulate a cab like that though :( would make it impossible to tune the port after the build would it not? I would have to be very confident it was all right first time round before starting a build or would you recommend designing the cab and just build the 1, load it and measure? hmm do i take it back to sketchup and play some more with angled baffles? got me tempted.
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DMorison
Old Croc Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1647 |
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Unless you stick with a proven cabinet+driver combination, you're best to assume that your 1st cab is a prototype and may need tweaking, yes. For that kind of layout, your best bet would be to make the whole rear panel removable on said prototype, and make the vents a bit shorter than the model predicts. That way, if they do prove to be tuned higher than you want, you only have to open the back of the cab and glue in strips of wood to extend them to reduce the tuning frequency. (That's the opposite of the common advice to start long and cut shorter as you measure and refine; on the basis that shortening a built in plywood port will be a lot harder than shortening a plastic tube after the rest of the cabinet is closed up.) Re: Simulating - if you stick with shallow angles as Hemisphere was suggesting, they'll make very little difference to your model - continue to treat it as a regular vented box. Just remember to account for the changed internal volume of the cabinet. HTH, David.
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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Thanks David that clears that up, i can't not have a go at modelling something now :) i guess when it comes to building prototypes i could just build and test them both. I would only be losing the cost of wood for one cab and would find a use for the wood somewhere else.
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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first draft of new design... haven't got around to mid-tops yet but the basics of the sub and kick bins are here :) thoughts?
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concept-10
Young Croc Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 1292 |
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Like it 😁
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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Just whipped up the shells of the mid tops
The flat panel in the center of the MTs are for the comp horns. Edited by Khyber - 21 December 2017 at 8:35pm |
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Hemisphere
Old Croc Joined: 21 April 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2272 |
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Fantastic - I feel better about being so harsh on the originals now
Not sure the midtop design is very practical though. What happens when you're using a smaller bass section? I think stacks look better when the midtops are less wide than the rest of the stack, but that's just personal preference. Edited by Hemisphere - 21 December 2017 at 9:01pm |
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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Thanks man appreciated. Thanks for the inspiration, i'm much happier with these now.
Shoulda posted this one too... I plan to start with this first. 1 sub 1 kick then MT then another kick etc... as a mono stack then double it to stereo, then dream about the 1st pic as 1 side of a full stack haha :) Haven't braced the MTs yet but here's the guts of the other 2 as well. yet to go into detail about the vents yet, some of them may need to be dummy's. The baffles and everything else are braced well though. |
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Hemisphere
Old Croc Joined: 21 April 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2272 |
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Looks nice but sub to kick ratio is all wrong. Look at your excursion plots with high power input and you'll see the subs will be excursion limited while the kicks are thermally limited.
Most of the energy is in the sub region and outdoors bass will be much weaker. Think 2:1 or 3:2. Bracing is overkill (and not optimal either lol but more than sufficient) . Looks like the inside of a 10 grand B&W hifi, your bottleneck for limiting panel vibrations in the design as shown will be the carpentry skills of the box builder and other fine details like how you secure the driver to the baffle, cabinet hardware, quality of ply, etc, not the panel arrangement. Open area on some of the bracing looks like it may cause some peculiar issues in the upper bass but I'm not sure about that - you can make those holes bigger or elongate them to capsule shape without issue. Edited by Hemisphere - 21 December 2017 at 10:11pm |
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Khyber
Registered User Joined: 28 October 2017 Location: Whitby Status: Offline Points: 89 |
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Haha OK ill read up on excursion limits etc i'm clueless ;) but very willing to learn.
I was thinking myself too many kicks. So if i went 3 subs and 2 kicks would the 1 MT be fine? They are 12" not 10". Could you recommend any books that cover building these kinds of rigs, all i can seem to find are books on building home systems and the likes. I could really do with an infographic or flow chart of the entire signal path from source i.e. the DJ mixer right up to the driver. I would be able to picture the final package including all the auxiliary equipment etc.. better that way. |
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