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Portable Battery 2 way speaker |
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Jack1991 
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Joined: 05 February 2020 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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 Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:08pm |
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Ok cool yeh i just googled and i partly understand now here is 1 photo which i assume is what you meant.
I would be wiring it like the first photo. But it sounds like your saying to wire it like the bottom photo? Amplifier 1 and Amplifier 2 being just each channel i assume too?  Edited by Jack1991 - 11 April 2022 at 8:10pm |
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Lucasdude
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Joined: 16 March 2013 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 642 |
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:12pm |
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In your case it would be passive biamping, so picture 2. The "X" at the input of each driver denotes "crossover". In picture 3, the X is before the amps so that is active biamping. Yes, on your mono system you can treat each amp channel as a separate amp. If you have 2 identical 2 way boards, just use one for each amp channel connected to the relevant driver.
Edited by Lucasdude - 11 April 2022 at 8:14pm |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:16pm |
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Ah right ok cheers yeh i see what you mean now.
And yes i do have another exact crossover. I wasnt planning on using it but will consider it now. As long as there will be enough room inside to fit it ill do it. My only concern is that passive crossovers eat battery power i have heard, so having 2 in there would make battery power worse wouldnt it?
Edited by Jack1991 - 11 April 2022 at 8:17pm |
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Lucasdude
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:19pm |
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No, using one half of each board is effectively the same as using the whole board of one. In addition to splitting the frequency band, the crossover may also resist one part to balance the end frequency response of the drivers. The purest dividing network is probably just a single capacitor in series with the the HF to ensure it doesn't handle any low frequencies. Cheap components on a passive crossover sound poor, and using too much resistance to balance drivers will certainly rob available amp power.
Edited by Lucasdude - 11 April 2022 at 8:24pm |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:20pm |
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Oh cool that makes sense then.
Just reading about biamping now and sounds like you get a nicer clearer sound and deeper bass.
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Lucasdude
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:30pm |
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On one of my battery projects recently, I used a 4 channel high quality car amp to actively biamp a small pair of speakers. Because car audio is used to such things, it was easy to put a low pass on 2 channels and a high pass on the other 2. The amp also had a variable subsonic high pass, so I can use that in the same way we discussed to stop the system robbing power due to inaudible frequencies.
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Jack1991
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:31pm |
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Oh ok would it be better to just do away with the passive crossover and fit a capacitor in series? If so happens to the woofer though to stop it playing too much highs?
Edited by Jack1991 - 11 April 2022 at 8:31pm |
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Lucasdude
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:35pm |
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I didn't see any damping in the main chamber of your speaker. I would suggest you use something. On that design, maybe just 5 small bitumen panels would do it. The only downside is a bit more weight, but I think the result would justify it.
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Lucasdude
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:40pm |
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I don't know if that would work for you. If you go the biamp route, and are able to balance the channels as we discussed then it might, but to make that sound right you would have to take measurements of the bass driver response with a full range signal. Then note the roll off rate and work out the type of HPF the tweeter would need. A single series capacitor would only provide a 1st order slope, so that may or may not be ideal. Having said all that, it's all good fun!
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Jack1991
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:45pm |
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I havent fitted anything yet but i have here some 'medium wadding' from blue aran, its what i bought to use in here. Would that be ok? If so what walls would be best to do?
Edited by Jack1991 - 11 April 2022 at 8:45pm |
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Lucasdude
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 8:58pm |
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In such a small enclosure it will make a big difference. Imho, the rear panel will be the first to treat. The "woodiness" of lower vocals is what needs to be addressed. The only problem is that bass response will suffer if you put too much in. Make sure you keep it away from the port entrance though. If it were me, I would still consider some bitumen panels. Wickes sells various sizes under "roof flashing". You can check the difference it makes just by feeling the panels at different frequencies. That's also a good way to check all the panels are sealed correctly. Did you use anything to seal the inside joints?
Edited by Lucasdude - 11 April 2022 at 9:02pm |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 11 April 2022 at 9:03pm |
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Cool ok yeh ill try that then. This is the stuff i got, is this ok to use for it, or is bitumen better to use? I have never heard of bitumen being used before.
Also is it worth covering the whole panel or just sections? I know i need to not put any covering the port at all.  Yes i sealed all the joints with CT1
Edited by Jack1991 - 11 April 2022 at 9:04pm |
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Lucasdude wrote: