12V RIG - Help, knowledge & Advice appreciated
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Topic: 12V RIG - Help, knowledge & Advice appreciated
Posted By: TheORig
Subject: 12V RIG - Help, knowledge & Advice appreciated
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:02pm
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Hi everyone,
New to the forum but I'll give you a rundown of my situation. Some friends and I are interested in building a portable sound system, currently in a very theoretical stage I would like to offer my idea/ proposal which i'm certain is currently unviable and help gain some knowledge and advice to help point me in the right direction.
I understand the idea I have in mind will be very large/ heavy so assume size and weight are not an issue. Please excuse any wrong terminology or obvious mistakes in understanding of the physic/ electronics behind the idea as i'm very new to this world, Thanks.
Please read till the end to get the full picture before commenting
THE (VERY ROUGH) IDEA:
I plan to use a 12v 115Ah deep cycle battery. The one I was looking at was able to output 12V @ 20A for 5 hours.
The battery would be powering a Pioneer GM-D1004 400w Class D Amplifier, which i'm currently aware runs off a 12v supply with a 15A fuse. The RMS output of this amplifier is 4 x 45W at 4Ω
This will be used to power 3 Speakers, 45W to a 3.5" bullet tweeter. 45W to a 6.5" Mid and 90W bridged to a 12" Subwoofer.
I understand that sensitivity is important so here are some ideas I have for speakers with high sensitivity.
Pioneer TS-B350PRO (3.5" bullet tweeter) 100W RMS 4Ω 100db sensitivity 3500Hz to 27kHz
Pioneer TS-M650PRO (6.5" mid) 110W RMS 4Ω 94db sensitivity 50Hz to 18kHz
Pioneer TS1200PRO (12" sub) 450w RMS (I'm aware this is probably way to high) 4Ω 105db sensitivity 20Hz to 500Hz
As my friends and I prefer the sound of a ported sub, we would build the 12" into a slot ported enclosure, tuned somewhere between 32Hz - 38Hz. *I'm aware this will be large*
My understanding is that the battery will be able to provide enough power for the amp to run its full RMS outputs which should be enough to run the speakers?
The unit would be constructed using high grade 18mm birch ply, with flight case Handles, corners and edging along with ABS laminate. With a compartment allowing for access to the battery where it will be securely fastened inside, with the ability to remove the constrains to recharge the battery.
The aim of the system is to be loud with good low bass, size and weight are not an issue. and i'm not looking to get 20 hours battery, just 5-6 hours of loud, bass heavy tunes.
Now I know that this wont work but here are a few of the questions that i'm able to think of:
Is the RMS of my speakers too high for the RMS output of the amplifier? I understand the sub is probably way too high, I have found 12" subs with a closer/lower RMS however the sensitivity drops massively from around 105db to 85db and below. Thoughts?
I've struggled to understand crossovers, I get the concept of separating the frequencies to the individual speakers. However have only been able to find 2-way crossovers for bass and tweeters? Any advice and also where in the system would they be wired in. Would I require a passive or active crossovers?
Will it be possible to bridge 2 45w RMS outputs to one sub, I understand there may be an issue with Ohms?? However i have seen that it was done in a youtube video titled "Pioneer Car Stereo System for under $400 - GM-D1004, TS-SWX2502, TS-D1730C" at 1:56 - 2:03 the video is 2:40 long. *wasn't sure if I could post the url in the forum
Should i use more than one amp?
What other components / electronics am I missing? PSU?? Head Unit??
And can you point me in the right direction of other threads, articles and areas or research that will help.
Some main points I want to keep the same:
The 12" ported sub as from my experience I definitely prefer the sound to an 8" or 10" sub. and a large battery as I aim to get 4-6 hours from the system.
Open to ideas for different speakers/ amplifiers, however i wish to keep the amplifier Class D due to the efficiency.
I hope that I can gain some knowledge and advice from this thread and get pointed in the right direction.
Thanks for taking the time to read, and I look forward to your replies!!!
Theo 
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Replies:
Posted By: valve head777
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:28pm
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HHi, regards the battery, the capacity is calculated at the C20 rate (5 amps for 20 hours). You are proposing a C5 rate. Battery capacity is significantly less at this rate. You'll probably need to double you battery size. Check the web for C rate versus capacity
------------- Freedom of choice, choice of freedom.
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:30pm
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Thanks for the comment, sorry i believe i worked that sum out myself and may be incorrect. This is the link and info on the battery. Will i still need to double up?
100ah @ 5 hr 115ah @ 20 hr 135ah @ 100 hr
https://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/115-ah-exide-deep-cycle-leisure-battery-porta-power-115/?gclid=CjwKCAjwsJ3ZBRBJEiwAtuvtlARjqFMybCql60Qb3JV959qy8aqeG6gb4zw9kuXciPVXitC2Hqn6xRoCru8QAvD_BwE
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:36pm
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The way i thought it was would be 100ah @ 5hr = 100/5 or 20 so 20A for 5 hours?
Thanks for the pointing me in the direction of C rate vs Capacity, I will read into this 
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Posted By: valve head777
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:46pm
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You are correct, although you'll be hammering the battery. Capacity is lost fast (life of battery) when 100% discharged.
Sorry for short answer, my screen is broken on my phone making typing very tiresome.....
------------- Freedom of choice, choice of freedom.
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 2:56pm
No worries, I know the pain of a cracked screen. As I believe the amp will require 15A not 20A, so the battery should last around 6.38 hours opposed to 5. So I presume it would be recommend to run the system for no longer than 5.5 hours on maximum, which i doubt it will be, or double up the batteries.
Would a volt meter be useful to ensure the batteries voltage dosn't drop too low?
Will the fact its a deep cycle battery help maintain the batteries capacity?
If I was to double up the batteries would this be done in parallel or series?
No rush for a reply with a broken screen, and thanks for your comments so far 
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Posted By: valve head777
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 3:03pm
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11.5 is about the minimum on no load.
Yes get a volt meter. Yes parallel two battery's
------------- Freedom of choice, choice of freedom.
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Posted By: valve head777
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 3:06pm
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DDeep cycle is a bit of a marketing hype. True deep cycle battery is extremely heavy due to thick plates and very expensive.
------------- Freedom of choice, choice of freedom.
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 3:12pm
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Amazing, thanks for the information. Okay i'll have to look into true deep cycle batteries and voltmeters.
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Posted By: studio45
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 4:16pm
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I think that amp is too small, if you're saying size and weight are not an issue - it's no good having a great big heavy thing that doesn't play loud enough to justify its existence! With that little amp and any competent lead-acid battery, you're certainly not going to have any problems with current draw or run time.
Pioneer offer some more powerful models, have you looked at the GM-A5702? About four times as powerful as the one you mentioned, but only 2 channels - not necessarily a problem if you passively cross over to your bullet tweeter? It's not class D, so might drain your battery rapid. That would have to be worked out in the field, unless Pioneer start providing more useful specs like quiescent current draw and efficiency figures.....
A lot of us on this forum have had good success using modules from Sure Electronics (aka Wondom) out of China. They can sell you a 2x300w/4ohm amplifier for about £50 and a power supply for it for about £45. These arrive as bare circuit boards so you need to mount them in a case and do a little wiring, but otherwise they are very easy to work with. It's not going to be cheaper or easier than the car amps, but potentially more efficient and much lighter weight.
Don't be too confused by speaker RMS ratings. In the world of 12v you will often be powering quite a large speaker from a relatively small amplifier. The dB-for-one-watt efficiency figure is the important thing as it determines how much of the input power the speaker can turn into sound. A lot of car subwoofers have the efficiency of a rubber chicken, and need great big amps to get them to move at all. This one at "105dB" is apparently almost as sensitive as a high quality compression driver, so I would basically doubt that figure hugely and assume that it is actually more in the region of 90dB output for one watt. Anything above 90 is OK, anything in the 80's is rubber chicken territory, anything above 100 is very good indeed. You can increase the efficiency by putting the driver in a horn (eg a tapped horn).
Finally consider that Hobbyking are now selling 10Ah, 14.8v lithium packs for about £35 and they are *so* much better than lead-acids in terms of power to weight ratio. Plus they are much happier with constant high current draw. I'm not totally sure a car amp would be happy with them at full charge (about 16.7v)- might trip its over voltage protection. But they are the future ;)
------------- Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Posted By: carlosdelondres
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 5:02pm
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the sensitivity figure for that sub is 'in car', so incorporates cabin gain, subtract 12-15 dB from that to compare it to PA drivers. Which will do the job better.
Also, don't plan on discharging lead acid batteries below 50% unless you enjoy replacing them. Lipo are good, or a 18650 battery build can be very cheap if you can source a load of old laptop batteries. Solder free assembly possible with a Vruzend kit or similar...
Wondom amps are great for the money, documentation not so hot though...
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Posted By: Hemisphere
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 8:57pm
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You need to rethink a few things here.
If size and weight isn't an issue and you really only care to get 5 or 6 hours of playback from a 115ah battery (how do you plan to transport this thing exactly?), then sure, go for a large box reflex design (but seriously consider tapped horns or hybrids like the Cubo series as they're a good compromise), but then you're going to need a lot more than 45W to drive it.
If it's actually going to be playing outside of a car like a normal PA system then the only place car audio components should come into it is for the amplifiers, and you'll need a much bigger one than specified (think 500w RMS monoblock for the bass if you want to produce 35Hz - Something from Vibe or BassFace that actually outputs the specified amount).
For mids/highs you would do well to look at the Fane 12" 12-250tc full range drivers. They're efficient, sound good, reasonably cheap, no need for a separate tweeter, no need for a crossover, you can put them in a small closed box and cross them from subs, possibly with a crossover built into the amp if you can find one like that. That's about as fool proof a set up as I can think of for what you're trying to do anyway. Other options can produce better results but get progressively more complicated the more components you try to incorporate.
If you're trying to produce 35Hz then you may as well get a 15" driver for the bass because the real size and weight is going to be the box size, and you'll want the efficiency. You probably don't actually need 35Hz but I won't try and convince you of that.
------------- Phase 1: Post on Speakerplans Phase 2: ????? Phase 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zc4bGkU05o" rel="nofollow - Profit!
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Posted By: studio45
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 8:58pm
Yes, just today I was testing my "2x300" modules into my new dummy load, and found they actually do just over 160 watts into 4r per side...And if you try driving them into clip to get to 10% THD, they just shut down...so how Sure managed to measure 300 watts coming out of one I don't know!
------------- Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Posted By: carlosdelondres
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 10:00pm
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interesting - what was the THD at 160W?
They do measure them at 3 ohms, so I suppose that could account for a bit of it. Is 160W/4R the threshold for shutdown then?
Just built a 6ch battery amp rack using one of the 2x400W T-AMPS for sub, so good to know what they actually give...I was hoping for a clean 2x200W from it at least.
nice one 
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Posted By: Hemisphere
Date Posted: 18 June 2018 at 11:28pm
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A couple of important points to keep in mind:
Actual music playback with a Class D amp presents nothing like the rated load to the battery - if it says 500W it's actually closer to 70W, so you don't need to limit your amp power so severely.
Alternatively you may be able to seriously reconsider your battery requirements (a couple of the 10AH lithium packs mentioned could actually do the job you think you need a 115AH leisure battery for).
Low bass frequencies need a LOT of power to play outside - When you play sub inside a car you're basically sitting inside the speaker. Outdoors it essentially fades into nothing, very quickly, and it's particularly noticeable because the mids and highs are still quite loud, so unless you pump about ten times as much power into the bass as you normally would, it'll be very thin, and all that extra box size and weight you used to achieve 35Hz will be a total waste.
The other thing is crossovers, just to be clear, there's no alternative to active crossovers in a system like you're proposing. Most amplifiers have them built in to a basic level, some more complex than others, but it's rarer to find an amp that will cross mids to highs, more common that they will cross bass to mids and that's it. The amp you specified for example has a high pass and a low pass, but it's not even adjustable, just set at 80Hz. So you can use it to cross a sub to a top cabinet at 80Hz..and that's it, and you'll still need a second amplifier. (unless I misunderstood the specs and it has selectable high or low pass on each channel, in which case you don't need a second amp but you're still limited to that two way point).
The only other option is external active crossover units but you really want to avoid that if you possibly can.
There are amps (from BassFace or Vibe ie as I mentioned, but others too, those are just names I'm familiar with) that have proper crossovers between channels built in, so for example I think one of the BassFace amps lets you run 2 channels at 75W each and a 3rd bridged channel at 150w and set a crossover between the stereo and the sub channel. Finding an amp with a 3 way crossover built in is unlikely so you either need a passive crossover between your mids and highs (something of an art in itself, and not easy for a beginner to get right), or a coaxial/full range driver as suggested.
Most decent car amps will at least have an adjustable highpass/lowpass filter, and if you have two amps like that, this can serve as an active crossover. Ones that can accomodate crossovers between mids and highs are rare, but they do exist (again BassFace is an example that comes to mind).
I may have made it sound like passive crossing from mids to highs is a bad idea - it isn't, it's just a complication to be aware of - if you just buy a crossover online that sounds right and try and match it to your components it usually won't go so well. If you go down that route you'll need to think it through and be sure you're doing it right.
------------- Phase 1: Post on Speakerplans Phase 2: ????? Phase 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zc4bGkU05o" rel="nofollow - Profit!
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Posted By: studio45
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 12:46am
carlosdelondres wrote:
interesting - what was the THD at 160W?
They do measure them at 3 ohms, so I suppose that could account for a bit of it. Is 160W/4R the threshold for shutdown then?
Just built a 6ch battery amp rack using one of the 2x400W T-AMPS for sub, so good to know what they actually give...I was hoping for a clean 2x200W from it at least.
nice one  |
Don't have an analyser for that, but I was "carefulling" the level up to the point where my scope started to show any sign of proper clipping and then taking a reading on my true-RMS meter. The scope's an old Tektronix 20MHz model so pretty reliable but not good for resolving fine details or taking precise measurements. It was showing a good amount of residual RF switching noise even with the load attached, so the trace was "fat" and not that easy to define. Just before clipping, the sine wave started to get pretty triangular (70Hz test signal). Seems like that would read badly on a THD analyser. Then you start to see real flat tops about a half a dB later.
Was seeing some really big current draws during the continuous sinewave tests. The 90% efficiency quoted by Sure may also be suspect. More testing will probably follow. It was good to know my batteries can do it though ;)
------------- Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Posted By: Hemisphere
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 4:17am
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The thing about those Sure amps is that the component and build quality/QA is often seriously lacking, so it's very difficult to get accurate data about their performance from a single test unit. I'm not saying your readings are necessarily due to a board specific issue, but that there are so many anecdotes of people analysing the boards and finding serious QA related faults (or simply underspecified/falsely rated components for the layout, which after replacing with proper components fixes the issue totally), that you should repeat the test over at least one other board from a different batch (as far as it's possible to tell - ie one ordered on a substantially different date to the other), before concluding that's how they all perform.
Someone better versed in the field might be able to identify which components would be likely to cause that sort of underperformance and how replacing them could fix the issue.
DIYAudio forums have some excellent threads on most of the Sure boards where these sort of issues are documented exhaustively so it may be worth a read or a contribution to one of those.
------------- Phase 1: Post on Speakerplans Phase 2: ????? Phase 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zc4bGkU05o" rel="nofollow - Profit!
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 11:23am
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Hi
everyone, thanks for all the really useful comments,
I
should probably have mentioned what the speaker will be used for to better
understand the concept.
My
friends and I have always enjoyed the Bristol rave scene and the general big
sound system setup. We have access to land where we can camp out and really turn
the speakers up without disrupting any neighbours/locals. This started off with
a small Bose Bluetooth speaker and has eventually worked its way up to 5
Minirigs and 2 Minirig subs between our group.
However,
were looking for the next level up.
We
wanted to create almost one section of a tradition large “soundsystem” we
thought the folded horn/ scoop may be too large so ported would be a better
option? We have access to a large car, small van, large gardening trolley and a
team of friends, hence why transport/weight isn’t a top priority. However, as
its never a huge group we don’t have the need for a full sound system. We just
want something that can get loud and really pump the low ends/base.
Ideally using battery power on a 12v system opposed to having to bring a generator too and all the complexities which come with it.
Having read this, any updated advice on speaker combinations (size/number of drivers) size of amplifiers in combination speakers and batteries would be great.
As
my understanding is so far from the comments a far more powerful amplifier is
needed? Should i still aim to use a class D?
Studio45 you mention the
GM-A5702 this looks like a good option, however as you mention it is not a
class d but in fact an A/B I believe. What are your thoughts on the Pioneer
GM-D8604 ? This is a 4 channel, bridgeable class D amplifier with 4x100w rms at
4 Ω
Or 4x150w rms at 2 Ω. I feel
I still may need to go bigger?
Thanks
for the recommendation of Sure
Electronics (aka Wondom) I will certainly look into this, as well as the
hobbyking batteries!
And I will aim to ensure that speaker sensitivity
is above 90db. Don’t want any of that rubber chicken!
Carlosdelondres Thanks for the advice,
that makes a lot of sense, I will look into some different PA drivers instead.
As for batteries, noted not to drop below 50% thanks, will look more into the
lipo however I found the price is waaayyyy above the alternatives.
A
tracer LiFePO4 battrey pack costing £370 for 12v 24ah while some deep cycle batteries
I was looking at were around £120 for 100ah, however I understand they are not
meant to be fully discharged are larger/ heavier and I may need more of them. But surely a 100ah deep cycle battery, not dropping below 50%, will still give more juice than a 24ah liop?
18650
battery build sounds interesting, will make sure to read up.
Hemisphere – Hi, thanks for your
help!
For
transport we have use of a very large car where the back seats can be folded
down, a small van, a heavy-duty garden trolley and several friends. So between
us should be able to move it to the locations we have in mind.
Horns
are a good idea, when I looked into tweeters the research I found said a bullet
tweeter would be louder that a tweeter in a horn, what are your thoughts on
this?
Will
look more into horns, hybrids and the cubo series, thanks.
You
mention needing more along the lines of a 500w amp for the sub alone. Running
off a 12v system I believe I would need around 42A to run the sub alone for an
hour, would this mean I would need several large batteries?
Great
advice on the Fane 12" 12-250tc, I will look into these.
It would make a lot of sense to avoid making the system too complicated. As I understand
the frequency range for this speaker is 45Hz – 17kHz and with a likely curve at
each end would this mean that I don’t get high enough highs and low enough lows
without a sub and tweeter anyway? Or would this not be an issue?
Originally, I wanted a 15” driver however I could
only find ones with pretty low sensitivity ratings, which for efficiency is an important
factor. Any recommendations or advice?
And please do try and convince me, you know a
lot more than I do. What would you recommend instead of 35hz?
Also, do you have thoughts on a sealed sub? A lot
smaller but I believe you loose on volume and efficiency.
Note taken not to limit amp power.
As for batteries, would a Tracer 12v 24Ah
LiFePO4 battery be my best option? I believe this is the highest Ah battery
they do before going into the mega expensive cases. Or a couple of the 10AH
lithium packs.
I feel this would not be powerful enough?
Note taken that active crossover is a must. And
to avoid external active crossover units if possible
As for the amp I specified I believe on the
back it had two options for HPF and LPF one for the “front filter” and one for
the “back filter”. I guess “front filter” means front speakers referring to two
of the four channel outputs, and same for the "back filter"?
I will certainly do more research into amps
mentioned, and more into coaxial/full range drivers.
And
if I did go down the route of passive crossing from mids to highs I would
likely seek the help of a local professional, if I’m going to invest in something
I wouldn’t want to muck it up.
Again, thanks for all
the advice everyone!!
I would also appreciate any more short theoretical examples of a complete set up, even if your own interpretation, to help me understand the power side of things better. Ie with a 12v 24ah battery you could power a 800w class d amp with 4 channels, with this much power going to these speakers which are this powerful ect.
Thanks!!!
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 11:31am
I guess a better way to have started this thread would have been to ask:If you were trying to make a battery powered sound system, as loud and efficient as possible, that will last around 6 hours of playtime on Max and more when turned down. With no regard to size/ weight and emphasis on powerful bass/ low end to be used outside for small gatherings of enthusiasts of bass heavy music ie dub.
What would your chosen combination of battery/batteries, amplifier/amplifiers, speakers and all other relevant components be?
Thanks, Theo
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Posted By: Shortrope
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 11:56am
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Boominator with a Tham15 on a Bassface Monoblock. Job done!
http://www.facebook.com/pg/Hatchett-furniture-Sound-221577064521384/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1078325712179844" rel="nofollow - http://www.facebook.com/pg/Hatchett-furniture-Sound-221577064521384/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1078325712179844
------------- My Tinnitus is coming along nicely!!
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 12:08pm
@Shortrope, Thanks for the link, that looks amazing. A few questions: Is the Bassface monoblock purley running the Tham15?
What are your thoughts on the cubo15 v tham15?
As i understand the boominator consists of 4 x 10" and 4x tweeters, do they have their own amps and power source or is it all run off that one large battery?
Thanks again
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Posted By: Shortrope
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 12:47pm
TheORig wrote:
@Shortrope, Thanks for the link, that looks amazing. A few questions: Is the Bassface monoblock purley running the Tham15?
What are your thoughts on the cubo15 v tham15?
As i understand the boominator consists of 4 x 10" and 4x tweeters, do they have their own amps and power source or is it all run off that one large battery?
Thanks again |
Yup the Bassface is just running the Sub. I've no experience with the Cubo 15, I've made the Cubo12 and it's very good. I'm a big fan of the Tham series though, I've built the 12 15 and 18 and they're all excellent. The Tham12 is a savage little Cab, not super low but very loud. Yeah, the Boominator is a legendary piece of kit...it's a self contained unit with Amps and 2 x 12V SLA Batteries. I control the Boominator and Tham15 from a 12v Soundcraft Mixer.
------------- My Tinnitus is coming along nicely!!
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Posted By: TheORig
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 1:43pm
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Oh wow, is this your rig? I thought you just shared the link haha. I've looked through a few more of your albums. Really impressive work with beautiful craftsmanship.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind.
What kind of battery life (hours) do you get from the Halfords 12v 115Ah Leisure battery powering the Tham 15 though the amp? How do you ensure the voltage dosnt drop, is there a volt meter somewhere?
What driver is in the Tham 15?
I read a fair bit about the boominator and its an incredible build. I have seen some setups that are basically a single PA (tweeter & 10/12") sat ontop of a tham or sub of some kind. I feel this is more along the lines that i would be thinking of building as i wouldn't require the 360' speakers. However i would ideally build it into one large unit.
I assume that a tham 15" will be more efficient/ louder than a simple 15" ported cab?
If I was using a "Eminence 1" Compression Driver with a Faitial Pro Horn" as used in your PA build with a 10" mid combined with a Tham 15, would I be able to get the full range of frequencies?
Depending on how you found battery life while using the Tham 15, and the fact that in the theoretical version above I would only be using 2 extra speakers opposed to the 8 in the boominator. (Which doesn't use particularly large batteries either) Do you think i would be able to run all 3 speakers off of the one 12v 115ah battery? And would it also be possible to run all 3 speakers off of 1 large 2 channel class d amplifier, if the tweeter and midi were bridged to one output? or is it best to give the sub its own amp? and if so why is this recommended?
Please excuse me if this wouldn't work, still very new to the world. My thinking is simply that as i would design the Tham 15, tweeter and mid into one large single unit, it would be simpler to run it all off one battery and one amp. Then run it though a simple custom head unit (ie power on/off, voltmeter, volume dial, 3.5mm aux) ? or would i still need a mixer.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply as any and all information really helps grow my knowledge and understanding.
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Posted By: Shortrope
Date Posted: 19 June 2018 at 6:35pm
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I did the calculations some time back and I seem to remember about 8hrs or so. I've never fitted a volt meter as we only ever used the Bike for a couple of hours at a time. The Boominator will play for 2 or 3 days and indefinitely with the right Solar panel setup and good Sunshine.
The driver in the Tham 15 is a 4ohm BMS 15S430.
The Speaker configuration in the Boominator is not just for 360 dispersion. The Magnet to Magnet setup is part why you get such high SPL from such tiny Amps.
Yup, a Tapped horn will be much more efficient than a simple ported Reflex.
The top setup you're describing will work but wouldn't be anywhere near as loud as a Boominator. I couldn't say for certain wether what you're proposing would work well but I can say that the setup I came up with is superb and will easily bang out a party for 50-80 peeps no bother.
------------- My Tinnitus is coming along nicely!!
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Posted By: bitSmasher
Date Posted: 21 June 2018 at 12:08pm
I use a Pioneer GM-D9604, with ch 3&4 bridged. It can pump out heaps of power for a 12v rig (measured 40v+ in to 4r), though the quiescent current is 1.5A from memory  This is the "brute force method" and I use 40ah or 80ah SLA to power it. Big, dumb, heavy and loud!
Keep in mind any onboard crossover will be fairly shallow, ie 12db/oct Going for a MiniDSP is a good investment
------------- https://www.instagram.com/batteryacidsoundsystem/
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Posted By: studio45
Date Posted: 21 June 2018 at 2:06pm
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1.5A isn't too bad for a - what - 1x500w + 2x250w setup? I get figures close to that when working with Sure boards, especially if I want to run two boards and two supplies from one battery. You'd still have 40+ hours of standby time from your 80Ah lead battery, or a good 6 hours on a 10Ah lithium pack.
And the current input normally doesn't rise until the output needs to develop more than that quiescent figure allows. So that first ~20 watts isn't necessarily wasted, if you see what I mean.
------------- Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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