I’ve thought about that I May have 12mm space 

Did u had a chance to lift them up? 

Am loading them with Rcf MB15N401 they are not done but think they be like 80kg , it’s about 2&2/3 of a sheets we use on each cab .

They really kick as a mule! Let me know what are your impressions, but i think you will like them, they are very efficient! 

I am also in the process of building some Martin Audio 215 mk3 bins! You are much further in the process than I, which is why I would like to ask you some questions if it's ok!

- I started modelling with 18mm ply, but seems like you are using 15mm, any special reason for this?

- I have made a CAD drawing from the drawings that can be found on the forum. There were some parts which angles were not specified, and some measurements that I could not match with the drawings. I am a beginner builder, so I do not know how crucial they are. 

http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/wilidapili/media/martin%20audio%20215%20mk3%20copy_zpsbc8kcuw9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Here's what my model looks like so far, still got some stuff to do. 

http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/wilidapili/media/Screen%20Shot%202018-08-24%20at%2023.01.25_zpsqsdmxyia.png.html" rel="nofollow">

If I asked really really nicely, could you send your CAD file to me?  Meanwhile, waiting for more build pics and info!! 

Funny you ask cause am asking myself The same we have 6*115martin i just loade Them with Pd 1550 and They came alive , The kick hit’s you damn good now so i can’t wait to finish the 215’ 

Sooooo I discovered the stupid mistake I had made after I modelled the cab again, hehe. It was the side panels' length: I had drawn it to be 910, but it is 18mm shorter. This resulted in the 16mm difference in the drawing. I also scaled the original drawing in illustrator to quite closely match the real-life measurements to check the angles and lengths of the corner braces. Both of the braces are 45 degrees with the back panel. The brace touching the baffle is about 62mm from the back panel to the longer corner of the brace, like shown in the photo. 

Hello there, nice to find this post as I have the same plans and going to start building a pair these days. Nice boxes you have there :)
Let me ask you, how are you connecting the speakers internally? in this cab the speakers are supposed to be connected in parallel into one output in the back of the cab, but i cannot get to the idea of how to do this. Could you show some photos? Would be very appreciated.

And by the way, thanks to all the users in here, been reading this forum for years without writing and has helped me a lot.

Thanks for the answer, but I explained myself wrong.

The question is: how are you gonna handle the wiring between drivers and the speakon? I cannot figure how to do the conexion withouth drilling the internal panels.

You do drill the internal panels, route the wire through, then fill the hole with sealant if there's any gaps.

I would like to make them in singles.. Is this a good idea or does the drivers share the horn? 

The drawing is here  http://hornplans.free.fr/martin_mk3.html" rel="nofollow - http://hornplans.free.fr/martin_mk3.html

The other plans you have to try figure out yourself 

You right about that Boots, we are a group of people working,on the system , I build someone draws so all team work . Nobody is going to be happy with me for giving their work out for free, companies here will charge around 3800kr to do a drawing like that . 

But that drawing does not tell it all. 

Its missing materiale thickness. Quite important 😁

And the Detail A do not give much information on where it is, and what it is. 

I can figure out its the baffle and the circular pattern is a cutout for the driver surround. But No info on how deep it should be. Some rather important measurements if you ask me 🙂

And then i can see you made double thickness baffle. 

Not a part of the plan. So that must mean some changes in volume and so on 🙂

I understand that alot of work had been put into it. And I do not ask for help for free. I am happy to pay for help. No questions about that 🙂

Cutting files and all that are not needed. But a detailed drawing that is complete would be a better starting point ☺️

3800kr for a drawing doesnt sound totally out of the Ball park.

Technical Engineers Arent cheap labor.. And the coffee dont Come cheap other 😉

Father Francis, are you based in scandinavia since you use kr? 🙂 

- Double thickness baffle changes the volume of the space where the driver is mounted, yes. How does it affect the end result? I don't really know... 

am in CPH the thing is old cabs were done in 15mm finer I prefer to use 18mm ,and where possible , I make 2x18mm , makes my cabs sound better , hvor er du henne i Denmark ?

Here, this will make some things easier. Be careful with angles and double check, good luck! 

It's also possible to convert this file to cnc compatibility as well ;)   

Do you know any way to convert it directly. That would save me some time.
Still have a bunch of work to do, double checking the whole thing :D

I got your mail, am at some Julefrokost , will reply as soon as I get home , you still didn’t say where you are Boss is it CPH too?

The middle divider doesnt go all the way to the front, so the drivers share the horn in some way ? 

Risky I would say you might loose alot from doing that boss , why would you want to build it like that , balance will always not be very good, maybe better to build a different box, what do you want you box to do ? 

But im gonna stick to plans 🙂

Im gonna look for drivers Today. Thinking of 18sound 15lw2400 or 15nlw9401. If they fit.

Or Maybe rcf. Pd is also Nice, but are a bit Hard sounding.

https://forum.speakerplans.com/martin-115-215-classic-115-long-throw_topic78156.html" rel="nofollow - https://forum.speakerplans.com/martin-115-215-classic-115-long-throw_topic78156.html  Someone asked kind of the same question nobody answered, I use pd1550 go lower and still high enough to meet my mid-top , most people i’ve heard of with these use Pd 1550 ,154, rcf MB15N401, there’s also the fane 15sb, they can all fit if you drop the metal handle which i’l drop in the future, since we are building more of them . 

The answer to your questions, are in the question itself, you say you hear people rave about them , 

1. The cab is proven, works good for lots of different setups, 

2. Talking about how they sound 🤭am not trying to sell them so no need for advancement, the sound as most people who have used them know , is still in the top five kick bins even made , if you are asking me , 

3. Look up the topics with Martin audio 215mk3 in here and on the net , as I don’t have time to answer stuff we’ve been thru for years , i’l End up writing a book on them . 

https://martin-audio.com/downloads/datasheets/215MkIIIBassHdatasheet.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://martin-audio.com/downloads/datasheets/215MkIIIBassHdatasheet.pdf

https://forum.speakerplans.com/can-martin-215-mk3-or-f2b-keep-up-with-es18-or-usb_topic89467.html" rel="nofollow - https://forum.speakerplans.com/can-martin-215-mk3-or-f2b-keep-up-with-es18-or-usb_topic89467.html

https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20538&start=15" rel="nofollow - https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20538&start=15

Read and learn , today many kicks run 18” or 15” some try 12” , not many do above 180/200hz without being honky , 

If you want to build some , I wouldn’t advise, they are heavy, best used in groups, and sound very good. 🤐🤬🏋🏿‍♂️🤭

  To quote another member; I'll get me coat..... 

I know you have been talking about PD 1550 and RCF MB15n401. 

But Why the RCF? 5,5mm Xmax??

I am still looking into drivers, but 18sound 15lw2400 and 15nlw9401 still tickles my thoughts.

I’v Had abit too many things up my sleeve so I still need to sand them put some handles on then I can test, 

Thanks guys , I know it's taken some time ,but you know good stuff takes time.

Hey Father-Francis, can't send you a PM yet so I'll reflood this topic...

did the handles fitted nice in the hatch part? i did some calculations long ago for a pd1550 and if they were correct those two wont fit. but that was long ago and i am about to build one.

i thought also on placing two retractile handles in each side were the one that is not in the hatch is if i cant put the ones in the hatch

Beautiful woodwork there!! and they ARE killer bins !

In my experience... three is not high enough to effectively use Philishaves.

 Phillishaves will sound best one aside as they create a highly efficient point source.(stacking more gets exponentially more difficult and needs to be done vertically)

 Ideally, they would be tilted downwards as to not dispose of half of their glorious sound to entertain the pigeons.

The half sized "lady shaves" are a better format but do not sound the same as the co-entrant 2x12  philis ( a ground breaking design even now ! ) They both use  a "phase plug" ( it isnt ) which is basically the same as any compression driver uses to recombine in time the diaphragms area  and then squish it through a smaller exit into a horn . The drivers that martin used had a very shallow dome that fitted the (very heavy) resin "compression  bung".......

As with a lot of things we could say " It was so good ,they had to stop making it!! "  (edit,  sarcasm alert!)

There are far more practical mid hi solutions that will out perform this format , bearing in mind that height will give you more of an initial advantage , and wont try to kill you lifting it .

Cool ,I hadnt seen that before,some nice stuff there  , but that first picture shows what I mean height wise ,who wants a philishave full in the face and how far do you think thats gonna throw? and the lower hf boxes too. It would be ok for a kids party though Build two more 215s and your above the problem

An interesting solution for 3 x215s ,Martin did some tall 3x12" with a 2".Very retro !

Do you mean these 

https://martin-audio.com/downloads/datasheets/F2systemdatasheet.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://martin-audio.com/downloads/datasheets/F2systemdatasheet.pdf