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Amp limiters... why cant i...?

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Topic: Amp limiters... why cant i...?
Posted By: JonB67
Subject: Amp limiters... why cant i...?
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 9:41am
Im wondering why people calculate their limiter settings.  

Im not particularly electronics or amp savvy. (Guess i wouldn't need to ask if i was)

Why can't you just unplug the speakers and measure the voltage with the amp set to 11 and dial the limiters down until its acceptable?

Its clearly not this simple as i can't find anyone suggesting this. What am i missing? 



Replies:
Posted By: Timebomb
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 9:52am
You can and its not a bad way to do it,  worth noting that some amps will drop there output under load more than other amps, ideally its better to do it with the speakers connected, even if its just for a quick check. 

Voltage gain / input sensitivity on amps is normally given at 8 ohms, and can change at 4 ohms and more so at 2 ohms, so calculating limiter settings has its draw backs too...   


-------------
James Secker          facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk               www.soundgear.co.uk


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 1:06pm
The main problem is that your speaker impedence is a moving target. It will change with frequency, so checking with speakers connected is pretty important. Calculations with a nominal 4 or 8 ohm is just guesswork. And as noted above, most amps will drop a few volts under load.





-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: Tonskulus
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 1:33pm
Having some Tamp TA1400's, they have decent built-in limiters. Great behaviour in stereo (8ohm/ch) mode, limiting output voltage to somewhere around 64Volts/channel. However there is problems when driving low impedance loads / bridge mode @ 8ohm.  Severe clipping may occur as amplifier is unable to give 2x64V=128Volts.  Clipping starts at around 105Volts, long way before limiters will activate..

But as mentioned, speakers has moving impedance with frequency etc so limiting only input voltage is just guessing what happens in output stage..

 





Posted By: kedwardsleisure
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 2:25pm
some amp owners manuals do recommend setting limiters up as you say. But I would advise that limiters are no substitute for a proper gain structure as part of a well-matched system which should be done first, then the limiters added as a last resort.

-------------
Kevin

North Staffordshire



Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 5:18pm
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

I think the problem with limiters is that in addition to catching peaks they flatten the signal as well, which isn't a good thing in the long run... imagine applying a continuous, constant sine wave (or in worst cases near DC) for a prolonged period into a driver..

EDIT : an "ideal" DSP limiter is different of course

Did you even read my question? 


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 5:19pm
Ok. I'm up for trying this. 

Is there a guide or how to anywhere?


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 6:47pm
Why would it have to be super accurate?

Ive got a fluke multimeter which will probably be sufficient,  but i wonder why you think it needs to be particularly accurate. Can you show me your workings?


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 8:53pm
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Why would it have to be super accurate?

Ive got a fluke multimeter which will probably be sufficient,  but i wonder why you think it needs to be particularly accurate. Can you show me your workings?

I think the logic board/LCD in handheld DMMs is too slow to react to sudden changes in voltages.

You think, or it is? Show me facts not guesswork.


Posted By: imageoven
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 10:23pm
I just googled analog multimeter,  one of the many that came up was under £7 so 'probably' not especially high quality or acurate.

-------------
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.


Posted By: Elliot Thompson
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 10:24pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Im wondering why people calculate their limiter settings.  

Im not particularly electronics or amp savvy. (Guess i wouldn't need to ask if i was)

Why can't you just unplug the speakers and measure the voltage with the amp set to 11 and dial the limiters down until its acceptable?

Its clearly not this simple as i can't find anyone suggesting this. What am i missing? 

The only thing that was not mentioned by the previous comments is... What exactly are you protecting? 

The majority of modern day amplifiers offer an on board limiter to prevent severe clipping. Most sound man use stand alone limiters to protect their loudspeakers from receiving too much power providing, the on board limiter in the amplifier is not adjustable. 

So are you protecting your loudspeakers from too much power or, are you using an amplifier that does not include an on board limiter in which, you need to use a stand alone limiter to prevent the amplifier from clipping?


Best Regards,  



-------------
Elliot Thompson


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 10:24pm
have you googled fluke?


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 10:52pm
Originally posted by Elliot Thompson Elliot Thompson wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Im wondering why people calculate their limiter settings.  

Im not particularly electronics or amp savvy. (Guess i wouldn't need to ask if i was)

Why can't you just unplug the speakers and measure the voltage with the amp set to 11 and dial the limiters down until its acceptable?

Its clearly not this simple as i can't find anyone suggesting this. What am i missing? 

The only thing that was not mentioned by the previous comments is... What exactly are you protecting? 

The majority of modern day amplifiers offer an on board limiter to prevent severe clipping. Most sound man use stand alone limiters to protect their loudspeakers from receiving too much power providing, the on board limiter in the amplifier is not adjustable. 

So are you protecting your loudspeakers from too much power or, are you using an amplifier that does not include an on board limiter in which, you need to use a stand alone limiter to prevent the amplifier from clipping?


Best Regards,  


Now that's a useful question. 

I've got a matrix 6004 which will give some useful clip protection,  and two numark dimension 4s which probably won't. I have a dcx and Im not  investing in new kit but want to make sure I'm making the most protection from what i already have. 

Primarily looking to not burn out my drivers by feeding them  more than they can handle.




Posted By: imageoven
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 10:54pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

have you googled fluke?
If that was at me then I am well aware of fluke. The point I was trying to make was that analog meters are commonly manufactured and available in a range of accuracy levels.
Sorry for going off topic..


-------------
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

You think, or it is? Show me facts not guesswork.

Well, I'd figure DMMs mass-produced today can vary greatly in their accuracy (edit : I've had 2, the other fried though).. if a manufacturer released an analog meter (considered vintage these days) it'd probably be of very high quality, and accurate.

What the are you talking about? "Id Figure" isnt facts. Backing it up with the 2 rubbish ones you bought isnt either. 

I've asked you twice to back up your conjecture with facts or maths.

Both times you respond with flannel. Either back it up or stop posting in this thread.  You're not helping and im asking for help. 


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 11:22pm
Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

have you googled fluke?
If that was at me then I am well aware of fluke. The point I was trying to make was that analog meters are commonly manufactured and available in a range of accuracy levels.
Sorry for going off topic..
Not at you at all imageoven. Apologies for the crossed wires


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 11:37pm
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

have you googled fluke?

I've used a Fluke IR thermometer to take readings from freezers.

The only analog multimeter I found online by a quick search was by Axiomet, and it was around 70e. A normal DMM costs about 20e (I had a Velleman earlier, now I have a Uni-T)

What the had an ir thermometer got to do with anything

And you haven't said *why* a dmm wont do and wtf are you babbling on about analog for?

Admin... ffs. This joker is ruining this forum. It was a simple question,  detailed 3/4 posts in. Unbelievable.

Thanks to those that actually helped. Ill pm you directly for more nfo if you don't mind as i can't bear doing it on here.


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 28 December 2018 at 11:46pm
No, i didn't.  I asked a specific question about using measuring voltage to set limiters, which if you had read it you would know.  


Posted By: dylan-penguinmedia
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 12:51am
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

have you googled fluke?

I've used a Fluke IR thermometer to take readings from freezers.

The only analog multimeter I found online by a quick search was by Axiomet, and it was around 70e. A normal DMM costs about 20e (I had a Velleman earlier, now I have a Uni-T)

Jesus... put the keyboard down and have a word with yourself.

There’s good and expensive, as well as cheap and less good multimeters in both analogue and digital flavours. ‘A normal DMM costs 20e’ is another of your bollocks comments which means nothing to anyone. 

This is the problem with the internet. Someone crops up and says something with enough conviction, it becomes ‘fact’.
Someone else will read your comments and think it’s correct. Not just on about this post, but a few I’ve seen you comment on.

If you don’t know, say so. There are people that DO know, leave the answering to them.

/lesson


Posted By: concept-10
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 6:38am
ClapClapClap


Posted By: Elliot Thompson
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 8:18am
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Originally posted by Elliot Thompson Elliot Thompson wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Im wondering why people calculate their limiter settings.  

Im not particularly electronics or amp savvy. (Guess i wouldn't need to ask if i was)

Why can't you just unplug the speakers and measure the voltage with the amp set to 11 and dial the limiters down until its acceptable?

Its clearly not this simple as i can't find anyone suggesting this. What am i missing? 

The only thing that was not mentioned by the previous comments is... What exactly are you protecting? 

The majority of modern day amplifiers offer an on board limiter to prevent severe clipping. Most sound man use stand alone limiters to protect their loudspeakers from receiving too much power providing, the on board limiter in the amplifier is not adjustable. 

So are you protecting your loudspeakers from too much power or, are you using an amplifier that does not include an on board limiter in which, you need to use a stand alone limiter to prevent the amplifier from clipping?


Best Regards,  


Now that's a useful question. 

I've got a matrix 6004 which will give some useful clip protection,  and two numark dimension 4s which probably won't. I have a dcx and Im not  investing in new kit but want to make sure I'm making the most protection from what i already have. 

Primarily looking to not burn out my drivers by feeding them  more than they can handle.




Since you are aiming for loudspeaker protection, each amplifier should be limited differently according to the loudspeaker it is driving. Your Behringer DCX is more than enough to get the job done.

 

Your biggest challenge will be converting the output volts from the amplifier into watts to reflect the rating of your loudspeakers under their nominal load.

 

 

High frequency drivers are always an easy load to an amplifier whereas, mid to low frequency drivers can/will put a heavier load on the amplifier at times.  So even though you could get away calibrating the amplifiers with no load, you will need to limit the voltage possibly 2 – 3 volts more than the outcome to prevent any fluctuations of the loudspeaker load.

 

Your Fluke meter is all you need and some means of noise (White or Pink) as noise reflects more to wards dynamic music material than sine waves. If you have difficulty converting the wattage (Program Power) of your speakers into volts at the nominal load, post the numbers here as I designed such a calculator to execute such a fete when I bench test amplifiers.

 

 

 

Best Regards,



-------------
Elliot Thompson


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 9:06am
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

No, i didn't.  I asked a specific question about using measuring voltage to set limiters, which if you had read it you would know.

A limiter is a compressor with a ratio of 10:1 or more (I've heard audio engineers fight over this constantly)

You have an incoming signal of 5V which the limiter, set to 3V threshold will attenuate it to 3.2V because the voltage exceeding the threshold is 2V, and output is 2V/10 = 0,2 so that's 1,8V attenuation.

So the output from a 5V signal would be 3V + 0.2V = 3,2V.

But it's only in theory. In practice with program material (not many people listen to 5VDC) you'd get all sorts of stuff like upward compression, PSU ripple voltages, fluctuations etc.. analog compressors with MOSFETs/JFETs or tubes will surely add all kinds of flavours to the signal, and the built-in ones in amps are usually fixed, fire-and-forget types.
Quarantining is good for you , it’s gets you asking more than answering 🙀🤐



-------------
Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 10:07am
Originally posted by efinque efinque wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

No, i didn't.  I asked a specific question about using measuring voltage to set limiters, which if you had read it you would know.

A limiter is a compressor with a ratio of 10:1 or more (I've heard audio engineers fight over this constantly)

You have an incoming signal of 5V which the limiter, set to 3V threshold will attenuate it to 3.2V because the voltage exceeding the threshold is 2V, and output is 2V/10 = 0,2 so that's 1,8V attenuation.

So the output from a 5V signal would be 3V + 0.2V = 3,2V.

But it's only in theory. In practice with program material (not many people listen to 5VDC) you'd get all sorts of stuff like upward compression, PSU ripple voltages, fluctuations etc.. analog compressors with MOSFETs/JFETs or tubes will surely add all kinds of flavours to the signal, and the built-in ones in amps are usually fixed, fire-and-forget types.

Again, you make a statement as fact and back it up with spurious anecdote to make it sound valid. (The bit in brackets)

Then you give me something which isn't about using a multimeter to set limiters, but about how much a limiter might attenuate, which if im setting from a measurement at the speaker end, matters not. Would only matter what the end reading was.  

Then you end with the usual fluff and meaningless nonsense we associate with your posts.  

None of it was helpful. Im sure you mean well but this has to stop.  It  confuses, dilutes and derails threads,  and people post because they need help not a bs diatribe based on whimsy and assumption about a vaguely associated thing.




Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 10:10am
What i was hoping for it my guess was right, was to come up with a thread people can use as reference so they can grab their multimeter once the driver is warmed up, knock up as patch lead (if they want,  i think it makes sense) they can plug in between the cable and the cab, set limiters to max, read the voltage and reduce the limiter until its reading what they need.  

 If its viable it seems a simple solution compared to the reams and reams and hundreds of confused posts on this forum and others on calculating it. 

Im sure this method has issues, but if it works its got to be easier!

I'll have a play and post my results. 


Posted By: Elliot Thompson
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 12:15pm

How precise the limiting needs to be reflects the person at the controls.

 

Most of the time everything needs to be calculated for the person at the controls can be very heavy handed on the faders. So brick wall limiting is the only solution. This is very important when renting out your kit and, those who are experiencing their first sound system.

 

Those that are more conscientious on not over driving their system and fall within the single user realm can be easy going applying limiters. A little clipping once in a while won’t lead to having their loudspeakers reconed as they tend to reduce the gains instantly when clipping occurs.

 

Then there are very small group of individuals as myself that use no limiters whatsoever and devise other means of voltage restrictions to regulate the output. This usually stems from literally monitoring everything at all times in addition to having certain components distort (upstream) giving one the impression the system is operating at full tilt (down stream) when it is not if/when required.   

 

Some users are not content until they hear heavy distortion. Some users are aiming for the cleanest sound as possible and would sacrifice volume for very low distortion. And there are others that have tons of headroom at their disposal and use the extra power for momentary peaks.

 

Best Regards,



-------------
Elliot Thompson


Posted By: Danielr
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Elliot Thompson Elliot Thompson wrote:

..components distort (upstream) giving one the impression the system is operating at full tilt (down stream) when it is not if/when required.   

Some users are not content until they hear heavy distortion.

:D love this.



Posted By: Conanski
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 5:07pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

What i was hoping for it my guess was right, was to come up with a thread people can use as reference so they can grab their multimeter once the driver is warmed up, knock up as patch lead (if they want,  i think it makes sense) they can plug in between the cable and the cab, set limiters to max, read the voltage and reduce the limiter until its reading what they need.  

 If its viable it seems a simple solution compared to the reams and reams and hundreds of confused posts on this forum and others on calculating it. 

Im sure this method has issues, but if it works its got to be easier!


The big issue with your method is it's only really applicable to low frequency drivers that can handle the full output of the amp. What if you're powering a 100w compression driver with a 350w or 500w amp, then you can't just let it blast away while you dick with measurements you need to have a limiter setting in place that is at least in the right ballpark before the driver is ever attached. Like it or not there will always be some math involved.


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 6:36pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Originally posted by Elliot Thompson Elliot Thompson wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Im wondering why people calculate their limiter settings.  

Im not particularly electronics or amp savvy. (Guess i wouldn't need to ask if i was)

Why can't you just unplug the speakers and measure the voltage with the amp set to 11 and dial the limiters down until its acceptable?

Its clearly not this simple as i can't find anyone suggesting this. What am i missing? 

The only thing that was not mentioned by the previous comments is... What exactly are you protecting? 

The majority of modern day amplifiers offer an on board limiter to prevent severe clipping. Most sound man use stand alone limiters to protect their loudspeakers from receiving too much power providing, the on board limiter in the amplifier is not adjustable. 

So are you protecting your loudspeakers from too much power or, are you using an amplifier that does not include an on board limiter in which, you need to use a stand alone limiter to prevent the amplifier from clipping?


Best Regards,  


Now that's a useful question. 

I've got a matrix 6004 which will give some useful clip protection,  and two numark dimension 4s which probably won't. I have a dcx and Im not  investing in new kit but want to make sure I'm making the most protection from what i already have. 

Primarily looking to not burn out my drivers by feeding them  more than they can handle.




And - of course, the follow up question should be what drivers do you have? And loaded into what? And what kind of material will it be playing?

It will all influence how you need to set up the system, ie for live music, with more dynamics, you can 'loosen up' on the limiting, whereas playing highly compressed muzak, you need to be a bit more conservative, ie limit earlier in order to make sure that the average power to your speakers doesn´t pass the thermal limits, etc.


And for multimeter advice, look no further:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1n_ELmpFI

LOL LOL LOL






-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: Dub Specialist Sound
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 7:33pm
Blow your hand off

-------------
Musical Roots Reggae Vibration is Life! for music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion!...MUSIC IS LIFE...


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 11:30pm
Originally posted by Conanski Conanski wrote:

Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

What i was hoping for it my guess was right, was to come up with a thread people can use as reference so they can grab their multimeter once the driver is warmed up, knock up as patch lead (if they want,  i think it makes sense) they can plug in between the cable and the cab, set limiters to max, read the voltage and reduce the limiter until its reading what they need.  

 If its viable it seems a simple solution compared to the reams and reams and hundreds of confused posts on this forum and others on calculating it. 

Im sure this method has issues, but if it works its got to be easier!


The big issue with your method is it's only really applicable to low frequency drivers that can handle the full output of the amp. What if you're powering a 100w compression driver with a 350w or 500w amp, then you can't just let it blast away while you dick with measurements you need to have a limiter setting in place that is at least in the right ballpark before the driver is ever attached. Like it or not there will always be some math involved.

I guess so, but i was also thinking of setting the limiter to its highest limit seeing then dialling back from there rather than the other way around. 


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 29 December 2018 at 11:36pm
Originally posted by Earplug Earplug wrote:


And - of course, the follow up question should be what drivers do you have? And loaded into what? And what kind of material will it be playing?

It will all influence how you need to set up the system, ie for live music, with more dynamics, you can 'loosen up' on the limiting, whereas playing highly compressed muzak, you need to be a bit more conservative, ie limit earlier in order to make sure that the average power to your speakers doesn´t pass the thermal limits, etc.


And for multimeter advice, look no further:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1n_ELmpFI

LOL LOL LOL


Double bms 15n630 in 180 litre boxes tuned to 41 hz

Music is all pre recorded but covers reggae, dubsteb, charts stuff, blues, rock amongst others.   A fairly wide spread. 

By how much do you loosen/tighten the limiter settings then?


Posted By: Elliot Thompson
Date Posted: 30 December 2018 at 5:09am
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

 

Double bms 15n630 in 180 litre boxes tuned to 41 hz

Music is all pre recorded but covers reggae, dubsteb, charts stuff, blues, rock amongst others.   A fairly wide spread. 

By how much do you loosen/tighten the limiter settings then?

Unless someone is using the same box with the same tuning in addition to the same loudspeaker, no one can give a clear cut answer. You have a custom design which means you will have a custom setting. 

The music is not the problem as the majority sound systems need to reproduce a wide variety of music. The question is how conscientious are you when playing your system? 

As I mentioned in a previous post...


Originally posted by Elliot Thompson Elliot Thompson wrote:

How precise the limiting needs to be reflects the person at the controls.

 

Most of the time everything needs to be calculated for the person at the controls can be very heavy handed on the faders. So brick wall limiting is the only solution. This is very important when renting out your kit and, those who are experiencing their first sound system.

 

Those that are more conscientious on not over driving their system and fall within the single user realm can be easy going applying limiters. A little clipping once in a while won’t lead to having their loudspeakers reconed as they tend to reduce the gains instantly when clipping occurs.

 

Then there are very small group of individuals as myself that use no limiters whatsoever and devise other means of voltage restrictions to regulate the output. This usually stems from literally monitoring everything at all times in addition to having certain components distort (upstream) giving one the impression the system is operating at full tilt (down stream) when it is not if/when required.   

 

Some users are not content until they hear heavy distortion. Some users are aiming for the cleanest sound as possible and would sacrifice volume for very low distortion. And there are others that have tons of headroom at their disposal and use the extra power for momentary peaks.

 

Best Regards,


Where do you stand under the above scenario? 




Best Regards, 



-------------
Elliot Thompson


Posted By: FOO
Date Posted: 30 December 2018 at 7:58am
Just wondering, Why would you set your amps to 11 o'clock?

Crank them suckers up to full power, and control it all from your processor or Xover unit.
Unless your are running 10kw amp on a 100watt HF driver.. 😝


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 30 December 2018 at 9:09am
not eleven o'clock... to 11!

https://youtu.be/KOO5S4vxi0o" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/KOO5S4vxi0o



Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 30 December 2018 at 12:13pm
"By how much do you loosen/tighten the limiter settings then?"

By changing your paramaters: Threshold, Ratio, Attack, Release, etc - depending on the unit you have.

The DCX has it´s 'normal' limiters - and also the Dynamic Eq, which can be used to limit a band of frequencies, etc. Very useful.  Smile




-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 30 December 2018 at 12:14pm
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

not eleven o'clock... to 11!

https://youtu.be/KOO5S4vxi0o" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/KOO5S4vxi0o




Classic. Love that movie!

LOL LOL LOL Clap LOL LOL LOL




-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: MattStolton
Date Posted: 31 December 2018 at 3:52pm
Fluke - pah, wimps!

If I can't measure it with my 1920's Wheatstone Bridge "meter", it can't be measured.




I'll get my coat...

(I got a class T Shirt for Christmas, legend reads:
"I'm an engineer. To save time, let's assume I am never wrong.")

-------------
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - http://www.wildingsound.co.uk" rel="nofollow - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 31 December 2018 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by MattStolton MattStolton wrote:

Fluke - pah, wimps!

If I can't measure it with my 1920's Wheatstone Bridge "meter", it can't be measured.




I'll get my coat...

(I got a class T Shirt for Christmas, legend reads:
"I'm an engineer. To save time, let's assume I am never wrong.")


When I was a kid, there was one electrician in the neighbourhood who used to check if a circuit was 'Live' by sticking a finger on it! Then I found out that he had a prosthetic hand!  LOL LOL LOL

 


-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!



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