I would like to move away from the M series but the X series doesn't really fit my needs.  Wonder how they compare to M series?  Sound quality, noise level, etc.

Are they just weak entry level amps or actually usable/ reliable.  I intend to use them on my Martin W8C's.

I will be calling the dealers on Monday to find pricing and availability. 

Do you know the price point of the new amps?

EDIT:  I fixed the noise problems by cleaning all the DSP slots and ribbon connectors.  Like brand new again

Just a quick note to say I posted a review over here: https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=169899.0

I'd also like to point out my last post in that thread, copied and pasted below:

Just a quick note to say that today I used the T602 to demo a prototype 2x18" cab (4ohm). The client had an amp that we tried, and turned it off again shortly after - it was clipping almost immediately. Theirs was one of these: https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/ADJ-American-Audio-VLP2500-Power-Amplifier/1MVK" rel="nofollow - https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/ADJ-American-Audio-VLP2500-Power-Amplifier/1MVK
I don't think it was putting out anywhere near the 1KW rating.

Got the T602 out, bridged it, and gave the cabinet some pain.

Sounded great, even when the bass dropped and held as a sine tone for a while, the amp just got on with it, even when registering -6dB of headroom, which is the Powersoft way of saying we got 6dB into clip.

Here's one of the test tracks we used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Po2746MdDY" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Po2746MdDY
Which is a lot of fun with something that's flat to below 40Hz.

So yes, I continue to be impressed. The client wanted a set of them, too.

Chris

Still getting used to Armonia plus.  Can anyone tell me why I cant go below 40W on the true power setting? And for the most part are people using the AES/3 for true power setting on subs?

True power on subwoofers seems to be an awesome thing to have don't you think?  

I used 21DS115 loaded box to test the new amps.  I set the TP limiter to 500w 8sec attack, 16sec decay.  Then I played a bunch of source material until I was just into TP limiting then decreased the peak limiter to about 230V when it was just starting to limit.  The idea is to "see" what a good peak voltage was needed for this box.  My conclusion is 230Vpeak is the max that is needed for most dance music otherwise I risk overheating the woofer (with an amp without true power)or wasting headroom on a bigger amp.  So, looks like a K20 is about right for this sub box.  Sucks a bit because the sims say it can take 300 volts without hitting xmax.   

Since I am using the amp to measure the actual power, the noise source probably doesnt need to be IEC-268-1.  Im guessing compressed pink noise will be fine as long as the peak voltage is not greater than the amp can deliver.

I'll still offer 2/1 on  rambling ancedote about a mystery amp that might be available in 3 years though. 

Something like this

Theres nothing scientific about "having a look" science is base on measurement, logging and measuring again.

All looking does is give you an educated GUESS. Guess being the bold word here.

I'll take even money on the "unicorn amp 10000" 

Only viktor has seen one and they are out there somewhere... just no one else has ever seen one...

By nature I'm a very curious person and really want to see inside.  However, In this case I really don't care.  The amps work as advertised and sound good to my ears.  As long as they turn out to be reliable I will be buying more.  I don't really care how many caps or fets are inside.  They drive speakers to the levels I need.  Am I going to do a dubstep show with 16 subs off one amp?  NO, that would be stupid.  The DSP, networking, and front panel display are all a win for me.  

Marjan: It can not be that inside, that pictured amp is a sub Kilowatt category only.

Here is the picture of well known K8/K10 from Powersoft:

Technology has not invented such a big step in the last ~10 years that you would be eliminate 80% of the caps without ruining performance..

I afraid that Powersoft has invented some type of "new standards" to declare power levels :-D

Where I have seen before? Have not called it like "the chinese way"

What I see on Marjan's picture is:

+ DSP

- AMPLIFIER

Ah good. Viktor.  Relied upon to bring his unbiased, real world opinions to the masses.

As to answering the OP - yes, the T604 are great.  We're about to order a further 5 for this years summer busy period.  We're in the process of getting rid of everything else and standardising on X8 Dante and T604. 

I wouldn't take a T6 on a big boy show on FOH, but for the sub 500 cap rooms, fills, mons and general flexibility they are awesome.  Next gen in all aspects to everything else I've seen or heard, good value, reliable, great warranty and very portable.

Shame the're not OEM on D&B and L'Acoustics, they beat the pants off their offerings. 

Just a quick FWIW, I had a T602 bridged into a 2x18" sub, which was wired for a 4ohm (nominal, dropped below 3ohm in places).

Then drove it 6dB into clip playing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Po2746MdDY" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Po2746MdDY

Which does have sine tones.

The T602 took it like a champ.

Chris

Double Flyback PSU!?

Mains Bridge rectifier is not even cooled?

Input CM filter has very thin wireing (low current)

Very few capacitors..

Looks a low power device (from inside)

The amp has PFC so the main bride rectifier should have an easy life.  Probably doesn't need cooling?

Looks like a M series inside with some improvements.  The fan tunnel should help with dust accumulation. A lot less ribbon cables than the M series.  I wish it had no ribbon cables.  But maybe without dirty air flowing around them they will last longer?