Print Page | Close Window

wiring this way okay?

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: General
Forum Name: 12v Powered Systems
Forum Description: From Mini-rigs to ICE, all your low voltage audio needs here...
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=104831
Printed Date: 02 April 2020 at 12:34am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: wiring this way okay?
Posted By: Jack1991
Subject: wiring this way okay?
Date Posted: 11 February 2020 at 9:05pm
For my 12v system im using a head unit and car amp to power the speakers.
Just checking it would be fine to wire it this way. I dont see why not? Im making a box to mount the amp and head unit in so would be easier wiring like this if its safe to! Rem = remote on 





Replies:
Posted By: djeddie
Date Posted: 11 February 2020 at 9:57pm
Should be OK... don't forget fuses though!

-------------
Chas n Dave : it's like Drum and Bass but with beards.             E=mc² ±3dB


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 11 February 2020 at 10:05pm
Originally posted by djeddie djeddie wrote:

Should be OK... don't forget fuses though!

The amp wiring kit comes with a inline fuse which i would fit too which goes on the positive cable to the battery.

Would i need other fuses? If so where/what size/style please? 

I wont be running any speakers off the head unit. The speakers and sub will be off the amp.




Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 9:12am
I wont be running any speakers off the head unit. The speakers and sub will be off the amp.


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 9:24am
Just an inline fuse will be fine.  


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 9:34am
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Just an inline fuse will be fine.  

Thanks mate so i dont need a inline fuse on the head unit positive (the one going to the amp) aswell as the amps inline fuse?

Sorry i need specifics because im new and dont want to mess up




Posted By: mk2_ginger_biscuit69
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 12:03pm
should be fine, the HU will have a ~10amp fuse in the back of it.

Long as there's a post battery fuse, or in a fault/short situation the full capacity of that battery could be dumped somewhere it shouldn't = fire & injury (or the battery exploding on a real bad day)


-------------
''Remember that the object of a subwoofer is to enhance the output of your main speakers, not overpower it''

''Dubstep - an elongated electronic fart''


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 12:31pm
Cool okay thank you. 


Posted By: godathunder
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by mk2_ginger_biscuit69 mk2_ginger_biscuit69 wrote:

should be fine, the HU will have a ~10amp fuse in the back of it.

Long as there's a post battery fuse, or in a fault/short situation the full capacity of that battery could be dumped somewhere it shouldn't = fire & injury (or the battery exploding on a real bad day)

Id want a fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible. relying on the equipments internal fuses offers no protection in case of damage to the supply cable.

whilst it possibly seems ott, its is a plausible danger. Actual real life, yes it did actually happen, example below:

A friends car burst into flame outside his house (nearly took the house with it). it was a taxi and the mate that had installed his taxi meter for him had tapped the supply directly from the battery. there was an inline fuse but it was quite far downstream. the positive cable became chafed over time and shorted against the chassis. cue dead short with no protection and goodbye car



-------------
LOUDER THAN LOUD


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 6:08pm
right ok so this was would be 100% then? I dont need or should have anything else to add? The inline fuse would be the one supplied with the amplifier wiring kit. And be fitted within 1ft of the battery

This is NOT in a car by the way. Its just going to be a off grid 12v sound system. 


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 12 February 2020 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by godathunder godathunder wrote:

Id want a fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible. relying on the equipments internal fuses offers no protection in case of damage to the supply cable.


As his diagram, the hu internal fuses are downstream of the inline fuse which,  as you rightly point out, would ideally be close to the battery. Its also good practice to check all the cable routing to identify potential chaffing and protect the cable where needed. 


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 13 February 2020 at 11:43am
Originally posted by Jack1991 Jack1991 wrote:

right ok so this was would be 100% then? I dont need or should have anything else to add? The inline fuse would be the one supplied with the amplifier wiring kit. And be fitted within 1ft of the battery

This is NOT in a car by the way. Its just going to be a off grid 12v sound system. 



So to clarify this way would be 100% fine? If not someone please let me know what i would need to do


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 15 February 2020 at 6:41pm
Would a inline fuse on the head unit positive cable be ok?


Posted By: Xoc1
Date Posted: 15 February 2020 at 10:33pm
It will be OK but unnecessary as previously said
Originally posted by mk2_ginger_biscuit69 mk2_ginger_biscuit69 wrote:

It should be fine, the HU will have a ~10amp fuse in the back of it.


-------------
OMG my Daughter has gone prog rock!
http://www.strangeredearth.com/videos/


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 15 February 2020 at 11:11pm
Originally posted by Jack1991 Jack1991 wrote:

Originally posted by Jack1991 Jack1991 wrote:

right ok so this was would be 100% then? I dont need or should have anything else to add? The inline fuse would be the one supplied with the amplifier wiring kit. And be fitted within 1ft of the battery

This is NOT in a car by the way. Its just going to be a off grid 12v sound system. 



So to clarify this way would be 100% fine? If not someone please let me know what i would need to do

Yes, that's fine.


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 16 February 2020 at 12:34am
Cool perfect thank you! Want to make sure i dont f it up. Cheers guys 👍🏼


Posted By: mk2_ginger_biscuit69
Date Posted: 16 February 2020 at 3:28am
to clarify, you need a fuse immediately post battery on the supply - before the amplifier.

my HU fuse comment related to having a link from amp to HU. Long as the initial fuse prevents the battery dumping its capacity on a short - essentially being a welder, all is well.


-------------
''Remember that the object of a subwoofer is to enhance the output of your main speakers, not overpower it''

''Dubstep - an elongated electronic fart''


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 16 February 2020 at 9:27am
Its easier to understand what you're doing is right if you know why you're doing it. 

Basically you shouldn't have leads from the battery terminal that dont have fuses on them (as biscuits has said,  close to the terminal)

If you do and it touches anything or the sheathing gets cut or a component failure etc, there's nothing to stop the battery trying to put all its stored energy through the cable,. Things get hot and fires start. 

So if you wire the units one after the other as your diagram, one fuse is fine. If you put a second feed for the hu or something else on as biscuits suggests you could,  that also needs a fuse close to the battery.

Every cable needs a fuse. If you take power from a point that's already got a fuse somewhere between the point you're taking power from and the battery that's ok, if not you need to add a new fuse. 

I know I've basically said what's been said already, but id rather you understood what you're doing than just did it because we said it was fine. Less likely to make mistakes if you can think it through for yourself.    

Edit for clarity of terminology!


Posted By: Jack1991
Date Posted: 16 February 2020 at 9:54am
Originally posted by JonB67 JonB67 wrote:

Its easier to understand what you're doing is right if you know why you're doing it. 

Basically you shouldn't have leads from the battery terminal that dont have fuses on them (as biscuits has said,  close to the terminal)

If you do and it touches anything or the sheathing gets cut or a component failure etc, there's nothing to stop the battery trying to put all its stored energy through the cable,. Things get hot and fires start. 

So if you wire the units one after the other as your diagram, one fuse is fine. If you put a second feed for the hu or something else on as biscuits suggests you could,  that also needs a fuse close to the battery.

Every cable needs a fuse. If you take power from a point that's already got a fuse somewhere between the point you're taking power from and the battery that's ok, if not you need to add a new fuse. 

I know I've basically said what's been said already, but id rather you understood what you're doing than just did it because we said it was fine. Less likely to make mistakes if you can think it through for yourself.    

Edit for clarity of terminology!

Thank you mate that is an absolutely perfect explanation. And thankyou ginger_biscuit too makes sense now. 🙂👍🏼



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net