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My first concern is that it doesn't look 'factory made', so is it wired correctly, with the correct gauge cable etc? Earth bonded, structurally sound, properly labeled. Are appropriate sized protection devices fitted to each output? Someone needs to confirm all this and that means someone who understands current regs properly getting a look at the insides.

A good next step would be to price up a set of RCBOs and see if it still seems cheap. Swaping them over, inspecting the unit and running tests on it is a few hours work, so factor in a proper sparkies hourly rate too.

They obviously make it an 'indoors' only device but the rest of the construction is non 'waterproof' too.

  I suspect if it was economic to do so then it would have already been done though? Depends what youre offering for it!

I’ve seen a lot worse distros out there!

Worth considering at this point what you actually need from a distro. The way that is built up with 19" panels for the outputs it would be easy to rejig it to your requirements.

Removing all the 13A socket, or changing to just 1x32A output and 2 x 16A outputs per phase, for example, would reduce the number of RCBOs you need to buy.

Any final circuit has to have RCD protection, as well as over current, so, to deal with cumulative earth leakage, RCBO for every outlet makes real sense. c. £30 each.

Without looking inside, no way of knowing if it is safe. Are their glands allowing cable out of metal distro? Is CSA big enough. Are the neons wired correctly as indicators, or do they come on in fault conditions too? Ferrules are always nice to see...

Careful with C curve. Yes, you probably should, but when you do your PFC, you must have enough "earth" to conduct at least 10x rating of a C curve breaker. So for a 16A C Curve MCB/RCBO, PFC must be greater than 160A to get disconnect in under 0.4s. With a B curve, you need more than x5 rating, i.e. PFC of 80A on a 16A B Curve.

Hit that snag when running a 16A/2.5mm SPN+E supply to a video camera in audience. Length of cable meant it only just was low enough resistance of earth loop to get over 160A PFC. Solution was to use B Curve, or upgrade to 4mm or 6mm due to voltage drop/resistance per M.

So basically what you are getting is a rack and some CEE connectors. For someone who knows what they are doing it could be a bargain. RCBOs and wiring are not that expensive but it's the knowledge/labour that will bump up the cost. It needs to be checked, modified as required and tested by someone who is suitably competent.

I would suggest that if you have a good 18th edition sparks available for mates rates it might be worth a shot, but get a price for getting it up to spec before making an offer. Otherwise it's probably going to be more trouble than its worth. 

You see enough abortions in houses, etc. done by “XXth edition sparks” house-bashers without them dabbling in shit they know or understand even less about 

This, x 100. 

Yes, much as it falls under "18th" whenever you use it, or 19th when that comes along, BS7909 is really where you need to be at. However, it defers back to BS7671 quite a lot. Consider BS7909 a "Special Installation or Locations" extension as it is so "special", that Section 711 (Exhibitions, Shows and Stands) wasn't enough.

I have never yet seen a domestic XXth Qualified sparks, run anything other than 2.5mm T&E for a ring, despite factors like length and insulation meaning 4mm or maybe even 6mm required. Commercially, I see a lot of 4mm FP being run on rings, almost as a standard, as someone has actually done some calculations...

to make it useful, I'd get someone with an MFT to do this and provide insulation and L-E/L-N  PFC results for every outlet.

Obviously you want to see the bang times on the new RCBOs as well!

but to me it looks in no way a crapper, the earth tag shows some design so the internal are probably all correct CSA etc.

It is also not a "Chip Van" rubber distro and looks gig worthy.

I'd build something like that and provide an EIC for around £2000 so if you can get the box, RCBOs and testing/installation for a good price, go for it, worse case you need £70 in tri-rate cable and ferrules to re-wire it, but all the panel work and stuff it done and the thing is reasonably well appointed ( you could pull the panel the 13As  on and add Powercon/more ceeforms if you fancied ) but it does need RCD protection and with today kit I would strongly advise against a 63A 3PNE 30/30 incommer!

What do you consider the problem with "rubber" distros?

How is L-E/L-N  PFC measured for a portable device? if connected to a supply then the results are going to be dependent on the supplies PFC? or is it a case of measuring the supply without the distro and subtracting one from another?

Nothing if you own burger vans, for gigs they are awkward (crap sticking in all direction for some of them) have stupid flaps over the breakers, usually no metering and really best not on a stage.

For outdoor stuff they aren't waterproof by any stretch so you are better off with Rack kit in a power cabin (pop up gazebo or pref an iso container to lock out the dimlo population) they are just poverty really.......

what a load of crap. Putting non outdoor key power distro in a popup gazebo . Rubber box distros for chipvans .

Not quite sure what you're saying there?

Do you mean measuring at the supply without the distro' and then at each outlet and subtracting one from another?

Grab PFC = measure PFC @ input six times (L1 P-N, P-E, L2 P-N, P-E, etc) 

then make the same tests on every output.

If 1 is on L1 and L1 give 1600A L-N and 1350A L-E given 3-400mm of cable you wouldn't want to see less than 95% of that @ output and you would def want to see the L-N <> L-E ratio as near the same (or better as most supplies have a lower earth (CPC as I think it may be now to hipsters) conductor size than L & N and distro are wires in Tri-rate with the same CSA for L, N & E)  again numbers are academic (unless you find no earth on the supply (more common than you may think!) as you can still check you kit is passing all the nice electrons thru.....