- Use the woofer, or a woofer frame, to pull in each tee nut into the rear of the baffle. Hammering them in from the rear can flatten/ruin the teeth, plus they may end up off-centre and give you grief sending a bolt into them.

- Add a dab of glue (I like PUs) around the edge of the nut/teeth so hold them in - there's nothing more annoying then getting a threat stuck and it tearing it out from behind the baffle and causing you to get out a drill bit or angle grinder to get it out.

- For heavier tee nuts i.e M8 + also add a pair of stitching screws on the rear of the baffle tee nut to have further mechanical holding of the nut

- For problematic bolts/nuts that have to come in at an angle due to not being fully aligned, use some bolt grease/machine grease on the bolt so it slides in with less resistance

- If the bolt gets stuck in the tee nut thread, sometimes you can get the bolt head up high enough to use an angle grinder to cut off the head and let the tee nut drop down into the enclosure. Sometimes you can drill straight through the bolt (for smaller bolts M6 and less) to get out the tee nut (may require a few extra drill bits).

- There seems to be a pretty noticeable difference in cheep tee nuts having the teeth bend/break/threat stuck, vs well made tee nuts.

What have you learnt over the years working with tee nuts? 

Same here. 

So concise it deserves a T-Shirt

One advantage of pulling them in is that you will soon find any tee-nuts with dodgy threads and either the process will clean them up or you can replace before fitting a driver.  Always oil/grease the bolt when pulling them in which also leaves a coating inside the thread for when you fit the driver.  I recommend using a couple of large washers rather than the driver itself.  You don't want to deform or crack the chassis by applying too much force in one location.  That said I often still hammer them but only if fitting them before assembling the baffle into the cab.

 ^^What they said. I refurbed some old cabs a while back and had hell with the t-nuts, quite a few of them just span in the wood as I tried to remove them, luckily I was able to remove a handle and get my hand inside the cab and grip them with a pliers but it was a bitch of a job, I replaced them with inserts. 

Makes for a much easier insertion process, and helps with preventing bending of spikes and rotation. 

Mark the position of the holes by aligning the tee nut to your liking and  lightly tapping with a hammer

+1 on lubrication

+1 on glueing (i use plain wood glue)

And to make sure you don't bodge the bolt and/or the threads of the tee nut,   when fitting the bolt, turn it first anticlockwise, until you feel the bolt jump over the start of the thread -> start turning clockwise

never ever use t-nuts in dead spaces. meaning, u press them in the perimeter of the speaker opening and glue on the last sheet and close off the volume where u used the t-nut, with no chance but heavy destruction to regain access in case it would fall off its place. dont do that. the feeling inside u suffer when u have to get out the holesaw and cut open your almost finished cab.... it will haunt you :-(

fucc these abominations and use threaded insert as mentioned befo... its just not worth it. t-nuts might get pressed in not 100% vertically, bolts used to tighten the speaker might cross-thread, u wiggle around, t-nut comes out, its just insane. i dont use them anymore.  greetings

Either copper-slip grease or blue loctite (especially the stuff that comes like a pritt stick as it’s thicker and you seem to get a better coating in the threads) the bolts before mounting your driver.

I also find using an impact driver to be very useful in freeing up old t-nuts & bolts as it breaks the corrosion bond with the impacts instead of just applying torque and spinning the nut out of the wood as you would with a ratchet or normal drill.

My experience with insert nuts has been that they’re more likely to just rip straight out of the wood or round out when being fitted and then be impossible to seat properly or recover from the cabinet. If they were genuinely a better solution I can’t help but feel you’d see them more in commercially built cabinets too?