Print Page | Close Window

2x MT122 + CW218

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: General
Forum Name: Newbie Discussion
Forum Description: Newbie Discussion/Questions. Look less stupid here...
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=107363
Printed Date: 28 March 2024 at 10:53pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 2x MT122 + CW218
Posted By: Rune RC
Subject: 2x MT122 + CW218
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 7:09am
I am very new with this line of projects. I have build two 1850 Horns before and I am fairly good with woodwork. 
I am considering to make my self a speaker system for garden parties and that sort of stuff. Private use in other words. 
My question is, would the combination of 2 x MT122 + CW218 be sufficient as a complete system? Or would I need more high tone? 
If so I would like your input on what drivers to use and what frequency divider to use?



Replies:
Posted By: Besa
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 9:30am
I suggest you not to use a horn loaded mid tops. MT122 have several disadvantages for the scope you aim to. 
- it weight a lot
- it has a narrow dispersion, so you need more than 2 for properly coverage and preferably you need to stack them ad a decent height, pointing them on the head of the people. You can't do this thing with only cw218. 

I've got 2x tham15 loaded with 15tbx100, I insert a mounting pole insert in the wood so I can stack 2 reflex 12"+ 1" tops on them at the correct angulation and giving the right stereophony to your music.
I make happy crowd up to 100 people party, charging all the sound system in the back of my station wagon. 

I think a combination like this could be the better option for you 


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 10:13am
It sounds interesting. 

Do you have an idea about where I could find the plans for the setup you suggest? 


Posted By: Besa
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 10:19am
on martinsson's blog:  https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/index.php?entry=high-end-low-end---diy-notes" rel="nofollow - https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/index.php?entry=high-end-low-end---diy-notes


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 10:51am
What kind of budget do you have?

A dual 18 will always be louder then a Tham15 and go lower in the process. Downfall is of course the larger net volume of the cabinet.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 11:57am
Since it is a hobby/garden system and because I am still a beginner, I would like the drivers to be in the cheaper end. 
Maybe later on I will upgrade to more expensive units.

I have been thinking about downscaling some of the plane i have looked from e.g. 15" to 12". I did that with you 1850 horns down from 18" to 12", so it could fit in a portable wagon. 

The speaker system I am considering size wise is one that can play at a decent volume for 50 people max. The primary reason for me looking at the MT122 and the CW218 or maybe the 1850/186 horns is that they are challenging builds :) 


Posted By: Besa
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 12:44pm
I had MT121. 
They are like a sniper rifle, aimed to throw far away. unless your garden is half of a football field I suggest not to build them. They are heavy, difficult to build, expensive and, IN YOUR SITUATION they will not sound as good as 12"+ 1.4" reflex with good components. I used mine several times at outdoor venue at about 2m height, you hear their best sound at >15/20m of distance. They were good, but they were in the situation for which they have been designed for. 
To be realist, lot different than yours.
to build a pair of mt121/mt122 you need about 3000€
- good 2" comp drivers (look at the price), they are expensive 
- wide horns, expensive too 
- lot of wood and skills 
To do a thing that, in your case, are useless, need 2 person to lift up on the sub and you can't put in a station wagon. 
I described my little sound made of 2x Tham15 and 2x orbit4s, I use it for working little size events. they are an all round bass bin.
You can build a 18" too if you have the way to carry it at your events.
you can build bigger subs, but, until you are a beginner, I suggest you not to waste your money in low-budget components and difficult build. 
it's better to invest in the right speaker for the right project, if you want to grow up, you build more bins.
front loaded horns are good in stack of at least 4.
think up 



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 12:49pm
Buy once cry once.

You can better begin with a small but good system and expand from there on out, then build a bad one and have to build something new in a couple of years. 

Depending on transport you can get away with bigger cabs by just using some wheels.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:20pm
Thank you for the feedback. I have know idea about the ideal use of this type of speakers, so it is definitely great to get some advice from someone with experience. 
The Tham15 definitely look like an exciting build as well. And one that is both easier til build and scale. 
So to of those would work as my low.
For tops you use Obits 4s. I find it difficult to find any plans for these. Where could plans be obtained or do you have other suggestions on what could be used as mid-top / top
Best case scenario for me would be to have maybe 4 speaker in total. 
2 x Tham 15 as suggested
2 x mid-top / top


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:24pm
The definitely seem like a decent plan. 
Any suggestions on a setup if you were to pick 
2 x sub/horn
2 x mid-top/ top
?



Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:27pm
@Rune RC

I have send you a pm.


Posted By: Besa
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:30pm
orbit 4 is a speaker manufactured by an England designer. I bought them directly built from his Facebook page, soundgear.co.uk
there are lot of plans for 15" and 18", for your necessity I will choose tham15/tham18 or a riflex bin but they are bigger. Tham is a good compromise. 
for the top you have to establish a budget and then I suggest you to go to speakers manufacturer webpage, they give you lot of ready design with wood cutlist and EQing presets


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:48pm
Sorry. I do not seem to have received any. 


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 1:53pm
Awesome thanks. I think I will go for the tham15. I have already found some thorough plans. 
Can you point me to something that would go well with Tham? I would like to build it myself if possible. 
Last I build something we used a digital frequency splitter to split the sound. Would you build in an analogue one or would have an external one where you connected both sub and top, and then for there into the amp?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 2:15pm
Before you jump the gun. What are you exactly after?
-size
-spl
-extension etc

The tham is definately nice, but also really lacks in the lower end.


PS: You probably do not have enough points yet to receive and send pm's.



Posted By: JulianDA
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 2:44pm
Maybe you could also consider this simple 18" BR:

http://lsv-achenbach.de/plaene/plan_sub18.htm
http://lsv-achenbach.de/images/lautsprecher/plaene/pdf/18-195l.pdf

We have two of them loaded with this cheap driver from thomann:

https://www.thomann.de/de/the_box_speaker_185008a.htm

They work perfectly well (measured flat to ~50Hz by us, but i have no acces to the measurement at the moment) and are cheap to build. We use them for dry-hire and everything where we dont want to carry the big system. They are really a "bread and butter sub" and do everything you need them to do :)

These are ours:







Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 3:37pm
Well, first this is to do an exciting build, that at the same some can be used for something practical. 
Most of the time the system would be used indoors in a larger garage. 
But I am sending for a size that allows we to play a decent volume for a garden party at around 50 people. 
I probably won't extend but might build something new, when I get better. It is a hobby projekt and not commercial in any way. 
Ideally as I wrote earlier the system would consist of 2 subs or horns and then two tops or mid-tops. A three was system could also be an option. 

I am simply trying to figure out what would be the most suitable solution since I am new to this. 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 3:44pm
What kind of music genre would be the most prominent?
What kind of amplifiers do you have?
What is your total budget?


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 21 September 2022 at 9:24pm
I personally listen to metal and electronica. I like a heavy bass. But listen to a lot of 60', 70' rock'n'roll as well. 
I do not yet have any amplifiers. That will need to be acquired. But I would probably go for a used NAD. But what do I know.
It is a low budget project since it will be my first. I don't have any specific figures. I am just trying to figure out what can be done. But let's say €700 for the drivers in total. 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 22 September 2022 at 8:23am
In that case I would go after something that can go lower.
Tham 15 -3dB point is >50Hz. -3dB @35 Hz would be better.

With that budget in mind, I would buy some topcabinets from a manufacturer (secondhand). And build one good sub. Something like a SKRAM will definately be a good start.



Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 22 September 2022 at 9:14am
"With that budget in mind, I would buy some top cabinets from a manufacturer (secondhand). And build one good sub. Something like a SKRAM will definately be a good start."

+1




I just picked up 4 of the old JBL EON 15 G2's for a silly price. A couple needed some attention, e.g. one burned out diaphragm, but still a bargain. And they still sound bloody good, despite their age. Two went straight into a small gig - with 2 15" reflex subs underneath they were fine & more than adequate to cover a small marquee.

Or, like I've said before - EV S/SX200/300 or similar can still hold their own, or even the DAS MI 12. Lovely cab.  Smile 




-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 22 September 2022 at 10:38pm
@Earplug

Exactly, the EV SX offerings are normally pretty good in the EU.

With such a setup you could always build a second sub (or three) in the future without loosing a previous investment (you almost always lose money on a DIY build).


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 22 September 2022 at 11:01pm
Thank you very much for the input, but the primary reason for this project is the built. It doesn't matter if it gets more expensive on the expense of quality. I will probably never be as good as any manufacturer. 

What I would like is to build a speaker system that is all DIY that I can use for non commercial purposes simply to learn about the process and to have fun while doing it. I might consider to include used driver units to keep the cost down.. I might do a new build when I am better and sell the old off if possible.

Thank you for good suggestions on the subs. I definitely have something to consider, but what would you suggest for tops if I were to build them myself? Both for Skram and Tham? 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 8:30am
It depends on how much you want to learn/explore.
Some good 10 or 12 inch BR tops with would be a good start. You can design one of your own (with help of the forum) or just go with a suggested design from B&C,18sound etc.

PS: if you are interested, I have some some stuff for sale that could help you get started.


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 9:26am
" It depends on how much you want to learn/explore."

I still use several cabs I built myself, albeit fairly simple 1 x 18" BR - and then designed some horn-loaded tops to go with those, that I had built by a carpenter here as my woodworking skills are near zero - but the system sounds great & gives me a good feeling whenever I use it.

BUT - the system did need analysing & alignment, for which you will need some reading & understanding of time and phase measurement, etc. Just throwing together a few cabs because they look good is not optimum.






-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 3:09pm
The 18sound,Beyma,RCF,B&C suggested designs are normally a good start which also include a designed crossover. However, even after that you will find that there is a need to properly process all equipment and it is substantially more expensive then some secondhand factory cabinets like the SX etc.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 10:57pm
Well, as I mentioned on the beginning I have build the 1850 horns, so I like challenges. At least to me that was a challenging built doing all the cuts yourself and assembling. 
I have 2 x 12" and 2 x 2" horn tweeters that could be used. BR could definitely be something to go with. I found some good plans at the manufacturers you suggested. I have also looked at MT130. Is that any good?

What crossovers would you use? One for the 2 way top and then one for connecting sub and top?

I will wait a bit with buying the parts. But thank you :)


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 11:02pm
Makes sense.
Can you elaborate a bit when you say: understanding of phase and time measurement?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 23 September 2022 at 11:31pm
What do you mean with mt130?


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 8:08am
@smitske96: http://hornplans.free.fr/mt130.html" rel="nofollow - MT130 design


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 9:25am
I found the MT130 design quite nice, so just wanted to know if any of you had some experience with it? 
I am just asking if this is a correct assumption: 
For the 2-way top I will need a 2-way crossover? 
For the sub I will need a sub crossover? 
How do I connect this to a regular amp that has no input for a sub? 
Do I connect another crossover in between the amp and the speaker units that take cares of splitting the signal in two?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 10:25am
Originally posted by DMorison DMorison wrote:

@smitske96: http://hornplans.free.fr/mt130.html" rel="nofollow - MT130 design

Weird, it did not come up with my search.

@Rune
It would be best to go for a dsp, dcx2496 etc
You do all your crossovers,eq,delay, limiting with that.


Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 10:28am
the speakers you're interested in (mt122 / mt130) are for big and loud applications. outdoors, big crowds. they're not really for small things like you want to do.

and they'll need proper processing, a loudspeaker management system, separate amp channels for the mid, and the high etc. passive crossovers like you're talking about aren't going to work for that level of speakers.

i would say look into a nice pair of coaxial 12" monitors that can be mounted on a pole, with a passive crossover maybe made by the manufacturer of the driver, or built to a spec they provide.

they'd be very useful versatile speakers to have, if you do in future end up progressing to a bigger system, then these would stand to you as a monitor system

and they're not necessarily a very simple build if you want a challenge. trying to fit everything in a small box with ports, ergonomic handles, passive crossovers, grill mounts, pole mount correct for center of gravity.. can be a very engaging project.


Posted By: Bams
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Makes sense.
Can you elaborate a bit when you say: understanding of phase and time measurement?

Not to be a smart ar*e but if no lights turn on with these terms i suggest taking the weekend off and start reading. In very, very, basic words: “phase” means which way a driver is moving (so two drivers out of phase will cancel parts of eachother) and time allignment is how a driver is placed against another so that soundwaves reach the ear at the same time. If both are perfect it will sound good, everything less will make it sound less perfect.


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 2:10pm
Originally posted by Bams Bams wrote:

Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Makes sense.
Can you elaborate a bit when you say: understanding of phase and time measurement?

Not to be a smart ar*e but if no lights turn on with these terms i suggest taking the weekend off and start reading. In very, very, basic words: “phase” means which way a driver is moving (so two drivers out of phase will cancel parts of eachother) and time allignment is how a driver is placed against another so that soundwaves reach the ear at the same time. If both are perfect it will sound good, everything less will make it sound less perfect.



As above.

Complex cabs where the speakers are offset to each other needs some proper measurement & (digital) processing. A Behringer DCX2496 is about the minimum you would aim for.

So really, to start off, build something where all the cabs are simple & front loaded. You can at least (physically) line them up and make life easier for yourself. Or a (bass) cab where you can easily work out the delay needed. If both the bass & top cabs are complex, it will be difficult to make it optimum. There will be gaps & cancellations everywhere. A waste of time & effort.   Cry





-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 5:28pm
@Bams 
No offense taken. I get your concern. 
The reason for me writing in this forum is for me to cover the gaps. I am glad you highlighted it. 

If I go with a speaker plan and chose the suggested drivers, I guess that both phase and time alignment has been taken care of? 

It is sometimes hard to figure out what to search die when you don't know what you are missing. Can you point me to litterature or other posts that would help? 
I actually already have a digital crossover that could be put use. 



Posted By: concept-10
Date Posted: 24 September 2022 at 7:53pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

@Bams 
No offense taken. I get your concern. 
The reason for me writing in this forum is for me to cover the gaps. I am glad you highlighted it. 

If I go with a speaker plan and chose the suggested drivers, I guess that both phase and time alignment has been taken care of? 

It is sometimes hard to figure out what to search die when you don't know what you are missing. Can you point me to litterature or other posts that would help? 
I actually already have a digital crossover that could be put use. 


The MT130 is a cab for a big venue/outdoor events, they sound a bit off up close but very good and very load at a distance, not the cab you need.


Posted By: Bams
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 8:05am
The problem with horns is they look so damn sexy but are also prone to influence eachother. if you start with a bassreflex system with a horn on top everything is quite alligned and so you only have to correct that one horn. of you start with multiple horns they all have different corrections for time, and besided that the time will start to influence phase and so on and on. Google for Time and Phase allignment. 


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 8:19am
Yes they look sexy indeed :D 
But I definitely do not want to off more than I can chew. There is a lot learn as it is. 
I have found some front loaded 10" and 12" 2-way speakers on Fanes website that seem reasonable to build. 
Would it be doable to match that with two Tham15? 


Posted By: bob4
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 9:32am
You're going around in circles........ tham15 drops like a rock below 50Hz


Originally posted by smitske96 smitske96 wrote:

In that case I would go after something that can go lower.
Tham 15 -3dB point is >50Hz. -3dB @35 Hz would be better.

With that budget in mind, I would buy some topcabinets from a manufacturer (secondhand). And build one good sub. Something like a SKRAM will definately be a good start.


Check your favourite bass heavy tracks on a real time analyzer to see how low the notes are. Even on 50-60 year old ska you can find 35 Hz notes or drum hits. 

+1 on rather having ONE kick ass sub over two mediocre subs that don't go deep enough. 

For no compromise, B&C 15ds115, 18ds115 or 21ds115 


https://forum.speakerplans.com/new-single-br_topic103425_page4.html" rel="nofollow - https://forum.speakerplans.com/new-single-br_topic103425_page4.html


Originally posted by simo69 simo69 wrote:

Originally posted by Crashpc Crashpc wrote:

So, I did some sims and thinking, got help from some forum members here (thanks) and elsewhere, and so I decided to take some action and try.
 
The resulting concept is this:
 
Not what I firstly expected and demanded. But still, this design shaves over 50l off, of the original compact enclosure. So this one is indeed very compact for 21" and hopefully with new shape, handles, sledge and wheel, I will be more likely to move it more often.
I plan to build one piece from waste wood to see how it handles and how it measures.
 
 
Sensitivity sim:
 
 
 
 
If I like the box, and it plays and measures well, I would like to have two of these:
 
 
can you send me the full drawing with all dimension on this box..?


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 11:19am
@bob4 
I considered the Skram and looked up some plans, but got a bit intimidated by the complexity.
When I look again it might actually seem manageable. Would you go for 15" or 18" considering the setup I have mentioned. 

Second thing: 
Could I use a passive crossover for a sub like that or does it need to be an active? And if active how would connect the tops with that? The built come with a passive crossover.  


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 11:37am
The scram should be an easier build then the 1850.
I think you look to much at the bracing (which is necessary but not the hardest.
With the scram you have only one angles cut, rest is all straight. 

You want to use a DSP for the skram (as for all) its not that hard to setup with some help of the forum.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 11:58am
Absolutely. I agree on that. And it makes sense to go for one great sub rather than two mediocre. It will also make the complete system a bit cheaper. 

A DSP. Got it. I had sound engineer do the settings last time, so I will definitely need help. 
If using a DSP should I then not add a passive crossover to my 2-way tops? 
And if not would then do to seperate terminals, one for each driver? 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 12:01pm
If following a plan (like the previous ones mentiones) you could build the passive crossover. However, it will only work as desired if the plan is followed precisely (drivers, tuning etc). 

Other option would be to run them biamp (one channel for the LF, and one for the HF) but you would need and extra amp.


Posted By: toastyghost
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by Bams Bams wrote:

The problem with horns is they look so damn sexy but are also prone to influence eachother. if you start with a bassreflex system with a horn on top everything is quite alligned and so you only have to correct that one horn. of you start with multiple horns they all have different corrections for time, and besided that the time will start to influence phase and so on and on. Google for Time and Phase allignment. 


This is rubbish, sorry. Every source needs time & phase alignment, and no HF horn on top of a ported direct radiating driver is going to be exempt from that.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 1:58pm
I actually planned on using some old drivers to make the project a bit cheaper, so the suggested crossover wouldn't work. 
If I go with the 2-way speaker without the crossover it would actually be considered two drivers sharing the same cabinet and not a 2-way speaker. I guess I would I need to split the drivers into two terminals then? Or should I go for a different plan? 

Is there any way to avoid two amp's? 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 2:10pm
You can go for a stock crossover like the beyma offerings. But those are definately not optimal. Other option would be to design one, but this takes a lot of knowledge on measurements, electronic etc. 

I think in your specific case is to best start with some secondhand tops. And build the subwoofer. After that build up some knowledge and see were it goes.


Posted By: Bams
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 2:38pm
there is no way to avoid more amps if you do not go full passive which is really like back to 1985. 

If you find all the parameters of your speakers a rough crossover between high and mid isn't hard to calculate (wielding mediocre, but satisfying results). after that you still need a two way crossover and two amps between subs and tops. 


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 3:03pm
I see. My initial thought was to go full passive if possible, but wasn't sure if it could be done. 
I am guessing that a SKRAM wouldn't work well with a passive crossover then?

I will figure out if I can find the specs for my driver's and ask for guidance later on then. 



Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 3:45pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

I see. My initial thought was to go full passive if possible, but wasn't sure if it could be done. 
I am guessing that a SKRAM wouldn't work well with a passive crossover then?

I will figure out if I can find the specs for my driver's and ask for guidance later on then. 



Passive in the bass-end is a real waste of power - and a filter can be more expensive than a cheapo 2-way electronic device. The coil you will need has to be large and thus expensive.

Even something like these would be better:-

https://es.wallapop.com/item/crosobers-behringer-825721418" rel="nofollow - https://es.wallapop.com/item/crosobers-behringer-825721418






-------------
Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 3:52pm
I thought so. That is also what I have read in other forums. 

So basically I will need to figure out how the crossover should be configured for the tops. 
Buy two amp's that is suitable for there different purposes
Buy a DSP or active crossover to split the sub and tops.

I guess I will need a mixer after the amps to connect the two channels?



Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 4:02pm
Yes to you using 2 amps etc, but no to the mixer after the amp.
Each amp will typically be a stereo device i.e. it will already have one channel for each of the Left & Right parts of the signal, and the crossover/DSP will be too.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 4:20pm
I see. It is just me not getting how it is connected 😅
I understand it like you do two separate line of amps. One for top and one for the sub. That might not be the case, but if it is, how are you connecting let's say a phone for playing music from?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 5:26pm
You go from: Source (phone, cd, laptop etc) --> mixer --> DSP/Crossover --> amps --> speakers.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 6:10pm
I see. Thank you for clarifying. 
Would both amps go into the crossover or only the sub since the tops will have a passive crossover? 


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 6:24pm
Both, your top has a crossover (if you but for instance a pair Sx300) between the LF driver and HF driver. You still need to split up the signal between sub and top. 


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 6:39pm
Of course. Thanks.
Is there a way to calculate what size of amps you should use or rules of thumb?


Posted By: smitske96
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 6:47pm
That depends on your setup (drivers, cabinet etc).
Most used rule of thumb is 2x AES rating. You still need a very healthy portion of common sense when running the system.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 7:04pm
Great thank you. 
I will probably go a bit conservative. 


Posted By: toastyghost
Date Posted: 26 September 2022 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Of course. Thanks.
Is there a way to calculate what size of amps you should use or rules of thumb?


Yes.

https://www.prosoundweb.com/understanding-required-amplifier-size-for-loudspeakers/" rel="nofollow - https://www.prosoundweb.com/understanding-required-amplifier-size-for-loudspeakers/

http://www.synaudcon.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/L1107_Amped_Up.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.synaudcon.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/L1107_Amped_Up.pdf

https://youtu.be/WcVdl-WZWeA" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/WcVdl-WZWeA

https://www.prosoundtraining.com/2016/07/19/power-amplifier-calculator/" rel="nofollow - https://www.prosoundtraining.com/2016/07/19/power-amplifier-calculator/




Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 27 September 2022 at 1:15pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

I see. It is just me not getting how it is connected 😅
I understand it like you do two separate line of amps. One for top and one for the sub. That might not be the case, but if it is, how are you connecting let's say a phone for playing music from?


Ahh, right, I see where we're misunderstanding each other now.

(By the way, I'm always impressed by how well most Europeans cope with using English, so please don't take this the wrong way).

Normally, we describe connections in the direction of signal flow, so the phone>mixer>crossover>amps that Smitske describes is correct - it was your suggestion that the mixer go *after" the amp that I was disagreeing with.

HTH,
David.


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 27 September 2022 at 1:29pm
Cool. I get that now 😅
It simply didn't seem logic to me at first. But I get it now. 



Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 27 September 2022 at 2:07pm
så Rune hvor bor du , jeg går ud fra du er i danmark ,

-------------
Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk


Posted By: Rune RC
Date Posted: 27 September 2022 at 2:12pm
Det er korrekt 😃

Jeg bor I København. 


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 27 September 2022 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by Rune RC Rune RC wrote:

Det er korrekt 😃

Jeg bor I København. 
Det er jeg 🤗, kaffe måske ?


-------------
Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net