im building 186 horns and i wonder if there is the "right way" to cut the wood,

for example i can cut the pieces without angles and then i can cut the angles after.

Or i can cut angles right from the start and do just one cut to make 2 angles at once. 

It is my first time building a speaker with angles different then 90 degrees and im not realy sure how to go with it. Also i would realy appreciate stylesheets, hacks or solutions to upcomming problems if u know some. Take in mind i cant afford fancy stuff like CNC 

It really depends how your woodworking skills are but cutting the angles as you go, if you can do it accurately, saves a bit of time and a bit of material.

Here's a link to a cut-list online app. which may be of help to you.

https://cutlistoptimizer.com/" rel="nofollow - https://cutlistoptimizer.com/

I'm sure it has been answered a million times, but maybe some veteran SP user can chime in? 

I'd advise to carefully consider where to cut the angles, and minimize their amount. It's easier to join if you cut an angle on only one of the two board edges, and leave the other one straight. 

Basic common sense tips: 

- don't rush anything

- measure more than once, check, recheck, mark, check again before cutting

- make sure you have enough offcuts/scraps to do test cuts until you have your table saw or track saw dialed in 

- make sure your tablesaw fence is perfectly parallel to the blade! 

- having the panels 5-15 mm oversize allows for enough clearance for a clean cut. If the board doesnt have excess, the sawblade will have to score/scrape the edge of the board, which is not good, and might pinch the blade and cause problems

- if the cut is not straight, it is near impossible to fix it by running again through the table saw

- at the risk of sending you down another rabbit hole, the best way to shape and fine-tune the angled edge is a handplane. With it you can take away very tiny amounts of material and straighten wobbly edges. Requires practice andto learn and get into though. For hand plane tips check rex krueger and paul sellers on youtube

- best practice would be to rebate the boards of the horn path into the side walls -> use a router, and to dry-fit without glue and screws. If the box goes together properly and square you can go ahead with glued assembly

- rebates help keeping everything aligned during assembly

- precision is neccesary, otherwise the cab could have gaps between boards, be out of square etc. I've been involved in enough speaker cabinet building that ended up in desperate efforts to force things into their place. 

- i'd probably rebate all the braces as well. Makes the fitting process also more forgiving, since the edge of the brace doesnt need to fit 100% to the face of the board if it sits in a rebate

https://www.toolstation.com/power-tools/nail-guns/c48" rel="nofollow - https://www.toolstation.com/power-tools/nail-guns/c48

Loki for the smallest you can get and make sure it can nail from 25mm up to 64mmnail 16g is fine . Hope that gives you an idea

corner clamps are useful to get the outside of the box square:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Angle-Suitable-Woodworking-Drilling-Cabinet/dp/B08F5F457F/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=corner+clamp&qid=1679577492&sr=8-8" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Angle-Suitable-Woodworking-Drilling-Cabinet/dp/B08F5F457F/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=corner+clamp&qid=1679577492&sr=8-8

check all your diagonals are equal and adjust before gluing anything - if you start off with a wonky box fitting the internals will be a nightmare.

personally when cutting two pieces for a joint I make the angles on each the same - that way you can cut them both in one go with no wastage. and the area of wood joining the two is maximised.

get a sharp saw blade and keep the rpm as low as possible to keep it sharp.

screws are easier to take out if you don't get it perfect first time.

I cut the most difficult angles first then remeasure the board and cut the 2nd, easier angle at the correct distance from the first.

A very easy mistake to make on boards with angles on opposing ends, is to cut at the correct angle but in the wrong direction, so I always mark up the board early on to show whether  the angles lean towards each other, or in the same direction and also which side has the critical measurement on.

Here's a good example of fully rebated construcion, note the assembly done without any fasteners, just clamps & ratchet straps!!! 

http://croweaudio.blogspot.com/2013/01/b-sub-215-dual-15-project.html?m=1" rel="nofollow - http://croweaudio.blogspot.com/2013/01/b-sub-215-dual-15-project.html?m=1

So u can fit 2 boxes on 3 panles 2500mm x 1250mm (there was a argument that u need 4) however you will need to be creative with back of the speaker chamber.

where we buy they have them like this. thats in cm