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making the curved section

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: Scoops
Forum Description: One scoop or two ;-)
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12900
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 8:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: making the curved section
Posted By: Alex_C
Subject: making the curved section
Date Posted: 22 November 2007 at 5:56pm
Hey guys i'm planning to build a pair of super scoops within the next couple of months (pretty much soon as i can afford the ply) and i was wondering if you could make the actual scoop out of sections of 18mm ply like people do with the curved section of the hd15, thus:


(pic from HBL's hd215 build)

alex



Replies:
Posted By: bill-77
Date Posted: 22 November 2007 at 6:39pm
i,m pretty much sure you can..i saw a picture of tony a,s,s scoops on forum some where he had that scoop shape made in that way ,,,try looking for the forum or send him a pm for advice he,s very helpful regards bill

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WISDOM IS BETTER THEN SILVER AND GOLD!!


Posted By: Jhodas
Date Posted: 22 November 2007 at 6:46pm
yeah, the RX18 jnr (one of Tony A.S.S.'s babies) uses a curved section like that. have a search for it. 

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Until the Lions have their own historians, tales of hunting will always glorify the hunter.


Posted By: bort_83
Date Posted: 29 November 2007 at 12:07pm
if a 3mm ply is used instead of this solution... 6x3mm is the rule or may be enough 3 or 4 x3mm ?

using less ply will result in bad distortions and vibrating ?


Posted By: Jhodas
Date Posted: 29 November 2007 at 4:52pm
Not if you glue them together i don' think. Insomnia? Dom?

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Until the Lions have their own historians, tales of hunting will always glorify the hunter.


Posted By: bort_83
Date Posted: 29 November 2007 at 9:20pm
good news.. i think of glueing them togheter and then screw to the support of the curve


Posted By: TONY.A.S.S.
Date Posted: 29 November 2007 at 9:42pm
The staggared curve that is in the RX18 is made by rebating the joints at a certain angle and then overlapping them. I hope you can piture it. I would never butt joint anything. This method will give you a much larger glueing and therefore added strength.

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http://www.facebook.com/tony.rossell.3" rel="nofollow - http://www.facebook.com/tony.rossell.3


Posted By: ToNy MoNtAnA
Date Posted: 03 December 2007 at 1:15am
Originally posted by supasniper supasniper wrote:

Hey guys i'm planning to build a pair of super scoops within the next couple of months (pretty much soon as i can afford the ply) and i was wondering if you could make the actual scoop out of sections of 18mm ply like people do with the curved section of the hd15, thus:


(pic from HBL's hd215 build)

alex


That kind of curve, but would reinforce every curve section with a bit of wood under it like the middle piece has.



Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 03 December 2007 at 1:07pm
this is the 3rd time I have shown thisWacko
 
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/7051/48148956gw9.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL">[/URL ]
 
if you do it this way its stronger and a cleaner look and easier to sand down
this can be used for a horn section or a scoop section


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: Heathrow_B_line
Date Posted: 03 December 2007 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by mykey mykey wrote:

this is the 3rd time I have shown thisWacko
 
and there will probably be a fourth, fifth, etc.
 
it takes three or four times longer doing it like that as you have to have more cuts, the cut width and depth have to be super accurate and you will need some type of accurate former whilst glue.
 
abit pointless when you think a good table saw would cut all the pieces of wood in a flash.
 
why try and fix something thats not broken?
 


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Produce a killer sound. Take no prisoners.


Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 03 December 2007 at 1:45pm
stick to your keyboard and leave it to the profesionals please
 this is how we in FACTORYS do it not garden sheds and garages
 
I've seen your work HBL and I dont like it sorry
stick to what your good at
 


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: Heathrow_B_line
Date Posted: 03 December 2007 at 2:00pm
Originally posted by mykey mykey wrote:

stick to your keyboard and leave it to the profesionals please
 this is how we in FACTORYS do it not garden sheds and garages
 
I've seen your work HBL and I dont like it sorry
stick to what your good at
 
 
thats fine mykey, everyone is entitled to their opinion
 
it may have escaped your attention but we do not build in factories. most dont even have table saws
 
im not too impressed with yours either mate...  looks as rough as a pigs ass.  maybe you should leave the building to your workforce?  its a good thing you 'outsourced' the building of your cab... it might look half decent with no 2"x4" as the support!
 
back to the point at hand, i would be shocked if anyone used your 'advanced' method of making the curve
http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.imageshack.us/ -  
you never seem to be able to defend your statements without throwing a hissy fit, why not try and act as professional as you say you are and counter my post with why you think its incorrect rather then CONSTANTLY having to bicker.
 
 


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Produce a killer sound. Take no prisoners.


Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 4:37am
Nobody makes a fuss over a prototype HBL, what would be the point?
 
I know you don't build in factories, its nice to show you how though
 
and you say it takes longer? it doesn't actually, once all the cuts have been done you put the glue in and Tie some string around and wait
 
cutting angles can be tricky, each end of the piece maybe wider at one end etc
then you have allot of fiddling around holding them in place , sometimes taking more than one pair of hands
 
you will have to trust me, I'm not new to this Tongue


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: LostGrayCat
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 5:38am
Yo Mikey. How about using a router table set-up to do the cut in 1 pass?


Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 5:51am
thats OK if your doing lots of the same cabinet 
 
you would have to have made the correct cutter at the angle you want
 
my way you can do any angle, plus you can use a skill saw or table saw
 
with the skill saw you just need 2 clamps and a guide, set your blade at the required depth then run through
 
its a much neater and easier way of doing it and has more glue surface area
 
clamps can be bought from HBL he has loads


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: LostGrayCat
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 6:00am
So a hand router could be used in place of a skill saw, still using guides clamped?

And angles are deterimined by width/depth of the series of cuts.


Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 6:14am
yes , it can be done with a hand held router and a straight cutter, but the cutter may break because you don't want it that thick
 
a saw blade is around 3mm and you won't break that unless your an I.T. operator having a go at itBig%20smile
 
and yes, the depth of the 2 higher cuts determines the angle
try it on a scrap first, will take minutes if you have a bit of savvy


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: LostGrayCat
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 6:52am
Do you ever steam the wood before bending?


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 7:23am
Originally posted by LostGrayCat LostGrayCat wrote:

Do you ever steam the wood before bending?


Why in the Lords name would you steam if. that why you make all them cuts Clown


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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk


Posted By: bort_83
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 9:24am
ok.. let's talk of measures of wood and cut... which ply is better for the curve section ? the 18mm is good or is to much heavy?

and what is the depth of the cuts ?


Posted By: TONY.A.S.S.
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 10:15am
Here's the A.S.S. way. 12mm ply would used and a series of slots cut in the back. The saws are dimensional saws with a traverse tables. The Knife is removed and the blade set to the depth. A pre determined pattern of slots is decided according to the flare rate. A pattern containing slots is placed on top of the piece being cut. This is used as a visual guide. It is not neccesary to cut slots in a section of the horn that might be reasonably straight. This is then slid into the grooves in the cab that form the horn shape. When secure, the whole surface on the rear of the panel is then covered with glue which fills up the slots. 6mm ply is then stapled on the the back. This is then a rigid structure.

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Posted By: LostGrayCat
Date Posted: 04 December 2007 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by FAO FAO wrote:

Originally posted by LostGrayCat LostGrayCat wrote:

Do you ever steam the wood before bending?


Why in the Lords name would you steam if. that why you make all them cuts Clown


Just asking. It's a way to get the sides of a guitar bent without cracking the wood.


Posted By: mykey
Date Posted: 05 December 2007 at 6:01am
they also use 'steaming' to build boats
 
I once STEAMED into a piece of wood because it wouldn't fit


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......just all them hanging there like giant bananas.



Posted By: TONY.A.S.S.
Date Posted: 05 December 2007 at 10:32pm
That's nothing I steam into my dinner ever night.

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http://www.facebook.com/tony.rossell.3" rel="nofollow - http://www.facebook.com/tony.rossell.3


Posted By: Jhodas
Date Posted: 06 December 2007 at 12:44am
I'm getting steamed just reading this thread! har har

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Until the Lions have their own historians, tales of hunting will always glorify the hunter.


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 06 December 2007 at 8:25am
Originally posted by Jhodas Jhodas wrote:

I'm getting steamed just reading this thread! har har


can“t get better steamed plywood an rice , with bamboo shoots Angry


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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk



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