need opinions on new horn design
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Category: Plans
Forum Name: Other plans
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about all the other plans
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1755
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 5:36pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: need opinions on new horn design
Posted By: Sencesync
Subject: need opinions on new horn design
Date Posted: 21 April 2005 at 7:19pm
i dont really know the hole concept of horn design so dont be hesitent
to bucher it =]. these are the URLs of the pictures, thier a little
big...(visualy, not file size)
scroll down, pictures have been reposted and now work.
if theres any improvments that i can make please sugjest them, like i
said im a beginer on horns, this is the best i can come up with right
now, and sorry i dont have miter angels shown but i do have them. this
horn is designed to use a B&C 18NW100 woofer.
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Replies:
Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 9:02am
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I tried to view it, but it comes back "can't be found"
Jim
------------- What?????
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Posted By: Timber_MG
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 2:49pm
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Much the same. Perhaps too many views? Darn...must get a host.
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Posted By: Mircea Bartic
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 3:45pm
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you can use mine
ftp://ftp.as.ro - ftp.as.ro
user : nexus
password: bassss
if you post a picture, the link should look like this: http://www.nexus.as.ro/picture.jpg - http://www.nexus.as.ro/picture.jpg
------------- general manager & head designer at nexus-acoustics research http://www.facebook.com/nexus.acoustics.research" rel="nofollow - http://www.facebook.com/nexus.acoustics.research
Ex Nexus_3
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 4:40pm
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i cant access the host site. so im going to repost the pictures a diffrent way, i can change the pixel size but you wont be able to see the measures very well, but you will be able to see the basic shapes. i based this design on a scoop style design. but it should be about the same. give me a few mintues and ill have it up.
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 5:07pm
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there, those should show, not the greatest quality but it should do
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Posted By: Disco Stu
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 7:24pm
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You dont know much about horn design yet you come up with that?!!!! god i wish i had such imagination!
Well the expansion looks quite smooth but i think the horn path might be a bit too long for the mouth size but hey bill fitzmaurices are and they work ok
The box is pretty big though youd probably need only a couple per side if the mouth length was large enough to reach extension. I like the idea though maybe someone who is good with AkAbak will be able to comment more on the response of the box
Stu
------------- All you need to know is:
Sensitivity + Power Handling - Power Compression = Max Output
My acts:
www.myspace.com/thebowiexperience
www.myspace.com/scheisseelektronisches
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 8:33pm
ya, apparently i have one of those...extremly technical minds, even though i might not know much about somthing, i can basicly invision exactly how something is built and what pieces there are just by taking a glance, its kinda annoying really, everytime i look at something the image pops in my head and inturn i can some how explain how its built in the inside with out having to open it up.... that design is based off a mixture of things...: the 186horn, the 1850horn, scoop designs. and with thinking mabey if i enlarge the horn pathway, that it might increase the lower pitch frequencies, because if it travels just a tad longer, the frequency deepens just a tad more, hens, the farther a loud noise travels, the lower the pitch gets, and the bombier it sounds.. so i figured "hey, why dont i do that, enlarge the hole box size its self by a tad, and try to get a lower pitch then the common around 50-55hz, and try to deepen it to near 45-50hz.
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 8:41pm
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oo and hears another fact for you people, im 17...
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Posted By: Lasse Lukkari
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 5:49am
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Sencesync wrote:
oo and hears another fact for you people, im 17... |
Don't worry! That's just temporary. You'll get over it.
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Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 9:01am
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Nice job on the drawings! Have you tried running the numbers in "hornresp"? I'm concerned that you'll get a drop in the 50-70 range due to length vs. mouth size, but with out checking it,,,,
Foldings do look smooth! Tough construction, but if the numbers check out, it should be worth a build!
Jim
------------- What?????
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 1:31pm
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righton ok, only problem is where do i get hornresp?
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Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 7:28pm
http://www.users.bigpond.com/dmcbean/ - http://www.users.bigpond.com/dmcbean/
------------- djk
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 24 April 2005 at 3:13pm
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ok thats diffrent, how the hell do i work this thing?
well here leme rephrase that. im in the states so most of these things its asking for, ive rarly ever seen. only thing i reconize on there is BL.
i might as well make a prototype box out of MDF and do a temp seal with a 18NW100, i have 2 nearly full sheets, i should be able to make one box. and no i wont be building the true ones out of MDF. was thinking of using either 7ply void free maple (3/4") or 5ply void free maple/birch (3/4") whitch one should i use?
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Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 8:44am
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What you need are T/S numbers for the driver you are using. That's all the data in the lower sections. If your not sure about what they are, you should go to the FAQ section on this sight. There is a pretty good explenation of them.
The next thing you'll need is to take the measures off your drawing. If you check the "hornresp" help, it gives a pretty good explenation of each of the horn areas. Play with it a little bit and it'll start making sense.
If you run into anything that doesn't make sense, hit me here or e-mail me directly.
Jim
------------- What?????
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Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 1:18pm
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To answer the wood question,,, Check the edges! I'm working with 7ply maple and one sheet was pretty bad on one edge. It's convinced me to fiberglass the edges to ensure that it won't de-laminate. IMO, I think the 7ply is the right answer.
The "right" wood is much tooooo expensive here in the states. 13ply would keep my project on hold for a very long time.
I ran the numbers (as best I can make out, You'll be able to tweak them from here) on "hornresp" at lunch. Give me a shout and I'll send the plots to you.
Jim
------------- What?????
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 7:25pm
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im giving a shout, the woofer im using for this horn is the B&C
18NW100. you can find most if not all its TS stuff at
http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm under 18" woofers. im looking to
get somewhere from 40-50 hz at high DB. and if you can, try to make the
folds smooth like i have, but at the same time as basic as possible. i
dont really have all the tools neccessary, like dadowing, i cant do
that, its all glue and screws. and id like to keep the same basic
outside shape of the box if possible
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Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 9:01am
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OK,,, Can anyone tell me how to do a screen print on the thread?
Sencesync, What you have doesn't look that bad. I would guess you can get what you want out of it by "tweeking" the front and rear chambers and adjusting the mouth size and horn length. When it's all said and done, it's a matter of what you're willing to compromise on. Also remember that I'm working from your drawing with some "assumptions" on chamber size and horn length. You may have a different view. It's your drawing.
And don't forget, I'm a Newbie too!
Jim
------------- What?????
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 7:47pm
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if you need, i can personaly send you the pics. it has all the measures
there. its just the measurements for the pieces and the horn areas are
on that somewhat fuzzy pic. those are all the measurements, you just
have to match up letters is all. so if youd like i can send them to you?
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Posted By: tendril
Date Posted: 27 April 2005 at 6:26pm
JJones wrote:
The "right" wood is much tooooo expensive here in the
states. 13ply would keep my project on hold for a very long
time. |
How much are you being quoted for 13lam 18mm birch in the states?
I am paying 45quid ($85ish) which I know is not the best price (still, not the worst either)
------------- Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 27 April 2005 at 8:31pm
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hah, quoted for? i cant even find a place to buy it from here. i live
in Western Washington, and and its strange to know that you cant find a
place that sells it. the best i can find is 7ply void free maple
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Posted By: LunchieTey
Date Posted: 28 April 2005 at 6:55am
I couldn't find anything in West Australia either until I looked under
timber wholesalers in the phonebook and rang a few,the timber retailers
sell crap wood full of voids. I even found a salvage yard with 18mm 11
ply with veneer for $60au a sheet. Quite a few of the wholesalers are
quite happy to sell it direct to public in single sheet quantities
------------- Speaker addict
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Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 8:14pm
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"i live in Western Washington"
The word is 'appleply', its made in Washington and I get 1" 20 ply (18 cores of poplar and alder plus 2 veneer faces of maple) 4X8 sheets for about $80.
http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html - http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html
3/4" Baltic Birch runs about $55 but is only 5X5
------------- djk
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Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 8:43pm
id rather use void free 7ply maple. that is ment for furniture
and is soft wood. not only that all my designs and builds are bassed
off of a 3/4" wood, not 1". i do see that they are 18ply, but im really
not wanting the extra veneer. the boxes are carpeted and painted so
theres no point.
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Posted By: LunchieTey
Date Posted: 30 April 2005 at 2:44am
Yes I can read(I know where Washington is,even if 50% of american students don't )
however Western Australia is relatively remote and not serviced
particularly well by timber manufacturers/retailers which is what
I figure is also the problem you(sencesync) are facing.Most people
invariably try the retailers first hoping they stock quality wood. Ply
is generally expensive and either used in crappy forms as flooring or
in small sizes by DIY handymen.
I was suggesting you try companies who don't do retail
sales(wholesalers/manufacturers instead)-because they seem happy to
sell one-offs for cash etc(even though they don't have
storefronts/smiley sales staff etc) and make big,quality thick sheets
for construction/furniture etc and sell to account holders,not Joe
Public. It's usually hard to find decent wood on shelves in stores!
In fact,it's very hard in Western Australia to do anything DIY. I have
to order ALL DRIVERS from the eastern states(CannonSound   )
and wind my own inductors(can only get puny cheap crap) as well as hunt
for timber! Kosmic sound can 'order' eminence-takes a month- and
rockforce have selenium,both are minimum 60km drives! I'm trapped in a
world of mackie srm450s and bose 802s!! AAAAARGHH!!

------------- Speaker addict
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