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need opinions on new horn design

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: Other plans
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about all the other plans
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1755
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 5:36pm
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Topic: need opinions on new horn design
Posted By: Sencesync
Subject: need opinions on new horn design
Date Posted: 21 April 2005 at 7:19pm
i dont really know the hole concept of horn design so dont be hesitent to bucher it =]. these are the URLs of the pictures, thier a little big...(visualy, not file size)

scroll down, pictures have been reposted and now work.

if theres any improvments that i can make please sugjest them, like i said im a beginer on horns, this is the best i can come up with right now, and sorry i dont have miter angels shown but i do have them. this horn is designed to use a B&C 18NW100 woofer.



Replies:
Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 9:02am

I tried to view it, but it comes back "can't be found"

Jim



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What?????


Posted By: Timber_MG
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 2:49pm
Much the same. Perhaps too many views? Darn...must get a host.


Posted By: Mircea Bartic
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 3:45pm

you can use mine

ftp://ftp.as.ro - ftp.as.ro

user : nexus

password: bassss

if you post a picture, the link should look like this: http://www.nexus.as.ro/picture.jpg - http://www.nexus.as.ro/picture.jpg



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general manager & head designer at nexus-acoustics research
http://www.facebook.com/nexus.acoustics.research" rel="nofollow - http://www.facebook.com/nexus.acoustics.research

Ex Nexus_3


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 4:40pm
i cant access the host site. so im going to repost the pictures a diffrent way, i can change the pixel size but you wont be able to see the measures very well, but you will be able to see the basic shapes. i based this design on a scoop style design. but it should be about the same. give me a few mintues and ill have it up.


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 5:07pm

 

there, those should show, not the greatest quality but it should do



Posted By: Disco Stu
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 7:24pm

You dont know much about horn design yet you come up with that?!!!! god i wish i had such imagination!

Well the expansion looks quite smooth but i think the horn path might be a bit too long for the mouth size but hey bill fitzmaurices are and they work ok

The box is pretty big though youd probably need only a couple per side if the mouth length was large enough to reach extension. I like the idea though maybe someone who is good with AkAbak will be able to comment more on the response of the box

Stu



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All you need to know is:
Sensitivity + Power Handling - Power Compression = Max Output

My acts:
www.myspace.com/thebowiexperience
www.myspace.com/scheisseelektronisches


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 8:33pm
 ya, apparently i have one of those...extremly technical minds, even though i might not know much about somthing, i can basicly invision exactly how something is built and what pieces there are just by taking a glance, its kinda annoying really, everytime i look at something the image pops in my head and inturn i can some how explain how its built in the inside with out having to open it up....
  that design is based off a mixture of things...: the 186horn, the 1850horn, scoop designs. and with thinking mabey if i enlarge the horn pathway, that it might increase the lower pitch frequencies, because if it travels just a tad longer, the frequency deepens just a tad more, hens, the farther a loud noise travels, the lower the pitch gets, and the bombier it sounds.. so i figured "hey, why dont i do that, enlarge the hole box size its self by a tad, and try to get a lower pitch then the common around 50-55hz, and try to deepen it to near 45-50hz.


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 22 April 2005 at 8:41pm
oo and hears another fact for you people, im 17...


Posted By: Lasse Lukkari
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 5:49am

Originally posted by Sencesync Sencesync wrote:

oo and hears another fact for you people, im 17...

Don't worry! That's just temporary. You'll get over it.



Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 9:01am

Nice job on the drawings!  Have you tried running the numbers in "hornresp"?  I'm concerned that you'll get a drop in the 50-70 range due to length vs. mouth size, but with out checking it,,,,

Foldings do look smooth!  Tough construction, but if the numbers check out, it should be worth a build!

Jim



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What?????


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 1:31pm
righton ok, only problem is where do i get hornresp?


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 23 April 2005 at 7:28pm
http://www.users.bigpond.com/dmcbean/ - http://www.users.bigpond.com/dmcbean/

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djk


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 24 April 2005 at 3:13pm

ok thats diffrent, how the hell do i work this thing?

well here leme rephrase that. im in the states so most of these things its asking for, ive rarly ever seen. only thing i reconize on there is BL.

i might as well make a prototype box out of MDF and do a temp seal with a 18NW100, i have 2 nearly full sheets, i should be able to make one box. and no i wont be building the true ones out of MDF. was thinking of using either 7ply void free maple (3/4") or 5ply void free maple/birch (3/4") whitch one should i use?



Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 8:44am

What you need are T/S numbers for the driver you are using.  That's all the data in the lower sections.  If your not sure about what they are, you should go to the FAQ section on this sight.  There is a pretty good explenation of them.

The next thing you'll need is to take the measures off your drawing.  If you check the "hornresp" help, it gives a pretty good explenation of each of the horn areas.  Play with it a little bit and it'll start making sense.

If you run into anything that doesn't make sense, hit me here or e-mail me directly.

Jim



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What?????


Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 1:18pm

To answer the wood question,,,  Check the edges!  I'm working with 7ply maple and one sheet was pretty bad on one edge.   It's convinced me to fiberglass the edges to ensure that it won't de-laminate.   IMO, I think the 7ply is the right answer.

The "right" wood is much tooooo expensive here in the states.  13ply would keep my project on hold for a very long time.

I ran the numbers (as best I can make out, You'll be able to tweak them from here) on "hornresp" at lunch.  Give me a shout and I'll send the plots to you.

Jim



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What?????


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 25 April 2005 at 7:25pm
im giving a shout, the woofer im using for this horn is the B&C 18NW100. you can find most if not all its TS stuff at http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm under 18" woofers. im looking to get somewhere from 40-50 hz at high DB. and if you can, try to make the folds smooth like i have, but at the same time as basic as possible. i dont really have all the tools neccessary, like dadowing, i cant do that, its all glue and screws. and id like to keep the same basic outside shape of the box if possible


Posted By: JJones
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 9:01am

OK,,, Can anyone tell me how to do a screen print on the thread?

Sencesync,  What you have doesn't look that bad.  I would guess you can get what you want out of it by "tweeking" the front and rear chambers and adjusting the mouth size and horn length.  When it's all said and done, it's a matter of what you're willing to compromise on.  Also remember that I'm working from your drawing with some "assumptions" on chamber size and horn length.  You may have a different view.  It's your drawing.

And don't forget, I'm a Newbie too!

Jim



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What?????


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 7:47pm
if you need, i can personaly send you the pics. it has all the measures there. its just the measurements for the pieces and the horn areas are on that somewhat fuzzy pic. those are all the measurements, you just have to match up letters is all. so if youd like i can send them to you?


Posted By: tendril
Date Posted: 27 April 2005 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by JJones JJones wrote:

The "right" wood is much tooooo expensive here in the states.  13ply would keep my project on hold for a very long time.


How much are you being quoted for 13lam 18mm birch in the states?

I am paying 45quid ($85ish) which I know is not the best price (still, not the worst either)


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Tendril

A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 27 April 2005 at 8:31pm
hah, quoted for? i cant even find a place to buy it from here. i live in Western Washington, and and its strange to know that you cant find a place that sells it. the best i can find is 7ply void free maple


Posted By: LunchieTey
Date Posted: 28 April 2005 at 6:55am
I couldn't find anything in West Australia either until I looked under timber wholesalers in the phonebook and rang a few,the timber retailers sell crap wood full of voids. I even found a salvage yard with 18mm 11 ply with veneer for $60au a sheet. Quite a few of the wholesalers are quite happy to sell it direct to public in single sheet quantities


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Speaker addict


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 8:14pm

"i live in Western Washington"

The word is 'appleply', its made in Washington and I get 1" 20 ply (18 cores of poplar and alder plus 2 veneer faces of maple) 4X8 sheets for about $80.

http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html - http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html

3/4" Baltic Birch runs about $55 but is only 5X5



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djk


Posted By: Sencesync
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 8:43pm
  id rather use void free 7ply maple. that is ment for furniture and is soft wood. not only that all my designs and builds are bassed off of a 3/4" wood, not 1". i do see that they are 18ply, but im really not wanting the extra veneer. the boxes are carpeted and painted so theres no point.


Posted By: LunchieTey
Date Posted: 30 April 2005 at 2:44am
Yes I can read(I know where Washington is,even if 50% of american students don't) however Western Australia is relatively remote and not serviced particularly well by timber manufacturers/retailers which is what  I figure is also the problem you(sencesync) are facing.Most people invariably try the retailers first hoping they stock quality wood. Ply is generally expensive and either used in crappy forms as flooring or in small sizes by DIY handymen.
 I was suggesting you try companies who don't do retail sales(wholesalers/manufacturers instead)-because they seem happy to sell one-offs for cash etc(even though they don't have storefronts/smiley sales staff etc) and make big,quality thick sheets for construction/furniture etc and sell to account holders,not Joe Public. It's usually hard to find decent wood on shelves in stores!
In fact,it's very hard in Western Australia to do anything DIY. I have to order ALL DRIVERS from the eastern states(CannonSound ) and wind my own inductors(can only get puny cheap crap) as well as hunt for timber! Kosmic sound can 'order' eminence-takes a month- and rockforce have selenium,both are minimum 60km drives! I'm trapped in a world of mackie srm450s and bose 802s!! AAAAARGHH!!



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Speaker addict



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