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Better x12 plans?

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: X10, X12, X15 and XM15
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the X10, X12, X15 and XM15
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=18802
Printed Date: 29 March 2024 at 12:51am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Better x12 plans?
Posted By: wafflesomd
Subject: Better x12 plans?
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 1:08am
So from looking at the x12 plans on the homepage, how is anyone supposed to build these? 
 
Anyone have better plans.  Possibly with some actual measurements.



Replies:
Posted By: Deadbeat
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 7:50am
Rog very helpfully gives us guidelines, it's like the MT122 - you have to draw it out to figure out the cutsheet and everything. Google sketchup or an easy CAD like Turbo would work well here.

I would also suggest putting the woofers at the top and bottom and fitting the horn in between to get an MTM arrangement, the ports can be moved anywhere. Try to get the woofers as close together without making the front baffle structurally unsound.


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Away on extended leave.


Posted By: darkmatter
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 11:27am
As above, plus you'll need your SOH CAH TOA trigonometry rules.

I based the 12+1 monitors I'm building on Rog's X12, worked out the internal volume, removed a 12" driver. Changed the trap angle simply cos my saw goes in per degree increments rather than having a 10.5. Changed to slot ports to make it easier and they add natural bracing etc. etc. They're a good starting point but you're free to experiment a bit to get exactly what you want.


Posted By: Static Age
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 11:58am
its pretty straight forward. I built a pair a couple of years ago, just drew the cut list by hand on paper in a few minutes.
 
sorry, i dont have the list anymore.


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Posted By: Risc_Terilia
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 12:55pm
I don't think you need trig, he gives you one angle, the one on the other side is obviously the same so you have enough to work out the other angles just subtracting them from 360.


Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 1:41pm
Quote I don't think you need trig, he gives you one angle, the one on the other side is obviously the same so you have enough to work out the other angles just subtracting them from 360.
 
Apart from the fact you're using 2 triangles, is that not in fact trig?
 
In the top view, if you draw a line down from the 10.5deg angle you create a right angle at the baffle.  the angle to the right of this will be 79.5deg.
 
We know that the internal length of this line is 372 (438 - [18+18+30])
 
you can then plug these into something like this to get the rest of the dimensions/angles
 
http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm - http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm


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My laser stuff: http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems" rel="nofollow - Frikkin Lasers


Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 07 August 2008 at 5:01pm
I can't imagine building the mt122 off the plans on the site :/

The part that gets me is that it gives the total depth of the cabinet, but the pieces heading back, are at an angle.


Posted By: Deadbeat
Date Posted: 08 August 2008 at 5:02am
That's where trig comes in my friend. or CAD, if you are confused.

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Away on extended leave.


Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 08 August 2008 at 5:54am
I'm just going to see if there are any other designs to accommodate my drivers.

Seriously, those plans suck compared to most.


Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 08 August 2008 at 9:03am

Seriously, if you can't work out how to build them with the information provided then maybe you're better off with Lego or something.  Saying the plans suck because you can't be bothered to calculate or work out the dimensions is a bit strong to be honest.

I posted the numbers that you needed to plug into the calculator to give the internal length of those side pieces. Then just add the width of 2 pieces of ply (36mm) and how much it extends in front of baffle (30mm).  Or as someone else has said, mark it out on the piece of wood that you use for the base and measure that actual dimensions.
 
Your other option is to work out the total volume of the cab and just make it square without the angles, but with the same volume.  Then you know the exact sizes.


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Posted By: breakdabeat pete
Date Posted: 08 August 2008 at 4:57pm
get a calculator, pen and pencil out my friend

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٩(̾●̮̮̃̾•̃̾)۶


Posted By: Grinner
Date Posted: 09 August 2008 at 2:11am
Originally posted by norty303 norty303 wrote:

Seriously, if you can't work out how to build them with the information provided then maybe you're better off with Lego or something.  Saying the plans suck because you can't be bothered to calculate or work out the dimensions is a bit strong to be honest.

I posted the numbers that you needed to plug into the calculator to give the internal length of those side pieces. Then just add the width of 2 pieces of ply (36mm) and how much it extends in front of baffle (30mm).  Or as someone else has said, mark it out on the piece of wood that you use for the base and measure that actual dimensions.
 
Your other option is to work out the total volume of the cab and just make it square without the angles, but with the same volume.  Then you know the exact sizes.
 
have you got the lego plans if its easier LOL
a brick by brick no.


Posted By: Risc_Terilia
Date Posted: 09 August 2008 at 2:23am
Originally posted by norty303 norty303 wrote:

Quote I don't think you need trig, he gives you one angle, the one on the other side is obviously the same so you have enough to work out the other angles just subtracting them from 360.
 
Apart from the fact you're using 2 triangles, is that not in fact trig?
 
In the top view, if you draw a line down from the 10.5deg angle you create a right angle at the baffle.  the angle to the right of this will be 79.5deg.
 
We know that the internal length of this line is 372 (438 - [18+18+30])
 
you can then plug these into something like this to get the rest of the dimensions/angles
 
http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm - http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm
 
Nah you honestly don't need to use any trig, the angle of the inside of the back of the box to the sides will be the same as the angle of the outside of the baffle to the sides.


Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 09 August 2008 at 9:32am
Ok, but that only gives the angles, and you will need the length of the sides if you want to do it without drawing it out.

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Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 09 August 2008 at 9:33am
Quote have you got the lego plans if its easier
 
I'm not sureof either the acoustic properties or air selaing qualities of the Lego construct....


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My laser stuff: http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems" rel="nofollow - Frikkin Lasers


Posted By: ceharden
Date Posted: 10 August 2008 at 9:23pm
You get your bit of wood, you draw out the cab on it and start cutting!  Doesn't matter if you end up drifting off the plans a bit!


Posted By: Dom
Date Posted: 14 August 2008 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by ceharden ceharden wrote:

You get your bit of wood, you draw out the cab on it and start cutting!  Doesn't matter if you end up drifting off the plans a bit!
 
+1
 
I've managed for years with plans drawn on the back of envelopes.  Possibly in crayon.


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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."


Posted By: mullet
Date Posted: 04 January 2011 at 12:59pm
To achieve something you got to put in some effort


Posted By: Bitkrusha
Date Posted: 13 April 2011 at 9:14am
Polyester car body filler is my best friend!

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11 is one louder!!



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