SMT 212 w/ Build pics.
Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: New Projects Forum
Forum Description: Forum for new speakerplans projects, in memory of Tony Wilkes, 1953 - 2014
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=19306
Printed Date: 01 December 2023 at 7:45pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: SMT 212 w/ Build pics.
Posted By: wafflesomd
Subject: SMT 212 w/ Build pics.
Date Posted: 28 August 2008 at 7:33pm
Well, the pics will be on later :P
Managed to get 11 ply birch for $35 (U.S.) :)
Will these be the only SMT212's in the U.S.?
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Replies:
Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 28 August 2008 at 8:31pm
Oh yah.
I as gonna go buy a bit to round the corners. What size should I get if I'm using 18mm ply.
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Posted By: sKs01
Date Posted: 28 August 2008 at 9:50pm
18mm the bit for rounding (or at least ones i use) have a roller on the end total depth of the cutting section is around 20mm mebe, and the actual cutter will have a ciruclar ish flat bit on top so actual cut you make is about 8mm just find one thats got a 90 degree curve (if you get that) hope that helped a bit, if at all.
nice price on the ply btw.
------------- You're a big man, but you're in bad shape. With me it's a full time job. Now behave yourself.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 28 August 2008 at 9:55pm
Well, yah, I know what the bit is. There are different sizes though.
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Posted By: login4
Date Posted: 28 August 2008 at 11:02pm
for my SMT212 build i used the smaller of the the two that came in my router bit pack
------------- CELTIC SUBSONIC SOUND SYSTEMS
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Posted By: eltron
Date Posted: 29 August 2008 at 9:11am
Now you are ready to go round the whole cab with your router with a round over
bit installed. You don't have to make a big round over, around 6 mm (1/4") is
good. Any more than this and you will be hitting the screws. Rounding over gives
a very professional finish to a cabinet and is easy to do. If you don't own a
router make it the next thing you buy. |
Quoted from the Speakerplans.com build guide by rog. In that case the example build was 18mm MDF.
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Posted By: doober
Date Posted: 29 August 2008 at 4:29pm
I prefer a 9mm radius on large cabs, 6mm can look a bit insignificant on anyting bigger than a 12"+horn cab. To avoid hitting the screws just countersink them a bit deeper, and always fill and sand before rounding over.
Is the SMT a trapezoid cab? if so use a smaller radius around the front, and do these edges first before doing the top and bottom with a 9mm.
Kieran
------------- Blahblahblah
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Posted By: Static Age
Date Posted: 29 August 2008 at 4:50pm
I like to do as much routing as i can while the cab is still a flat pack. That way i cant possibly hit a screw.
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Posted By: hektik
Date Posted: 03 September 2008 at 6:26pm
Static Age wrote:
I like to do as much routing as i can while the cab is still a flat pack. That way i cant possibly hit a screw. |
if ur good enuff you can do it with a soft pad on a grinder .and you wont hit screws..practice with a piece of scrap first...its really quik and quite easy wen uv had a bit of practice took me about 5 mins per cab ill put sum piks up of mine tmoro ....look in new projects ...then 18" mini scoops theres sum piks up now but thats before id rounded the corners..
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Posted By: hektik
Date Posted: 04 September 2008 at 5:57pm
Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 04 September 2008 at 7:17pm
I've got one built, minus the top and bottom. The rear of the cab ended up being around 200mm, not 195. So, I'm going to have to cut new ones specific to each cabinet.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 3:10pm

I tried some Eminence compression drivers, sounded OK, but couldn't keep up with both twelves. Cabinet likes to resonate at around 150 hrtz, so I just EQ that out and they sound great.
A little issue with the tweeter baffle. Baffle ended up not being long enough to reach the side walls. Cutting it down and just mounting it on top of that separating sheet worked.
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Posted By: Static Age
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 3:31pm
regarding the tweeter baffle, I had the same problem when i built a pair of SMT212's.
Everything was cut & fitted perfectly as per the plan, until i got to the last panel which was the tweeter baffle.
Just like you i had to fit it above the deviding baffle & trim a small ammount of the top of the baffle to alow it to fit.
As soon as i descovered this i checked my baffle against the plans, to me everything was ok, dont know why it didnt fit.
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Posted By: login4
Date Posted: 19 September 2008 at 5:02pm
oh ye sorry i forgot to add that in my build, its the dividing section between the 12's and the compression driver, its 15mm to long in the depth, we should ask staipe to edit the plan realy before more peeps make the mistake..
looking good so far btw
p.s. what "Q" did you use on the 150hz EQ cut? and how many DB? i still haven't got round to running an RTA through mine...
------------- CELTIC SUBSONIC SOUND SYSTEMS
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 21 September 2008 at 2:10am
Got the tops and bottoms cut. Get to put it all together tomorrow :)
I put a -6dB drop at 170hrtz.
Also, I was using the wrong horn for my compression driver. Ordered new horns, so we'll see how they sound.
Er, canceled that order. Horns were fine. Crossover is just, crappy.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=269-830
Can't really complain, since they came with speak-on plugs, dish, and xover. Just going to replace the tweeter network, as I want the dish and speak-on plugs.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 23 September 2008 at 7:48pm
Here it is!
All that's left to do is get them painted. Trying to decide between black, and turbosound blue.



This one came alive.

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Posted By: Mark James
Date Posted: 23 September 2008 at 9:56pm
2muchdrugslol
------------- me so horny me love you long throw horn loaded for her pleasure
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Posted By: Preacher
Date Posted: 23 September 2008 at 10:10pm
I thought the baffle for the 12's on the SMT was meant to have a couple of triangular 'ports' cut into it?
------------- Stone Lion Sound System, The Garden City Rockers. It's all about the music & the vibe.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 23 September 2008 at 10:14pm
It seems to sound better without ports with the drivers I'm using, so I did not make any ports.
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Posted By: Preacher
Date Posted: 23 September 2008 at 10:17pm
Cool.
------------- Stone Lion Sound System, The Garden City Rockers. It's all about the music & the vibe.
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Posted By: djstefanos
Date Posted: 24 September 2008 at 12:42am
i would have cut a bigger rectangle and stuck an animal horn in there. That horn looks pussyish. Make use of the space in that cabinet.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 24 September 2008 at 1:51am
I would use a 2" CD, but they're just way to expensive.
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Posted By: djstefanos
Date Posted: 24 September 2008 at 3:04am
you can get a 1 - 1.5" big horn and stick a small compression driver to it, like an RCF N 450, not alot of money
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 03 October 2008 at 7:34pm
I took these things outside today. Had them atop four scoops. There's a freq. gap there, but overall everything sounded fine.
I feel really sorry for anyone who walks in front of these things. They are pretty damn loud.
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Posted By: breakdabeat pete
Date Posted: 03 October 2008 at 8:15pm
can one smt really keep up with 4 scoops? thats pretty impressive for such a simple design
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Posted By: breakdabeat pete
Date Posted: 03 October 2008 at 8:18pm
ahh you had 2 ontop of four scoops misread
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Posted By: Preacher
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 9:42pm
wafflesomd wrote:
There's a freq. gap there
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In the 'Kick' region I take it, or between the 12s & horn?
------------- Stone Lion Sound System, The Garden City Rockers. It's all about the music & the vibe.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 10:02pm
Yah.
I usually play my scoops up to 175 though. Since they're not really scoops, they can do it.
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Posted By: Deadbeat
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 10:20pm
wafflesomd wrote:
Yah.
I usually play my scoops up to 175 though. Since they're not really scoops, they can do it.
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------------- Away on extended leave.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 10:22pm
Lol.
You know deadbeat. Negative expansion scoops.
Don't worry, they'll be replaced soon with 186's.
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Posted By: Deadbeat
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 10:24pm
wafflesomd wrote:
Lol.
You know deadbeat. Negative expansion scoops.
Don't worry, they'll be replaced soon with 186's.
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Even if they do negatively expand, that don't mean that they do 175...
Anyways, good luck with 186s - loaded properly they will live up to your expectations (and judging by your 'competition', you will get business.
------------- Away on extended leave.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 04 October 2008 at 10:29pm
Deadbeat wrote:
wafflesomd wrote:
Lol.
You know deadbeat. Negative expansion scoops.
Don't worry, they'll be replaced soon with 186's.
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Even if they do negatively expand, that don't mean that they do 175...
Anyways, good luck with 186s - loaded properly they will live up to your expectations (and judging by your 'competition', you will get business.
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Hopefully :)
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 30 October 2008 at 8:08pm
So does anyone know of a cheaper alternative woofer for these cabinets. I'm about ready to get rid of whats in them now. The suggested woofer is far too expensive for me to afford.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 02 November 2008 at 8:04pm
So yah, I had some drivers in these cabinets as placeholders until I could afford the proper ones. I couldn't quite figure out why they sounded so terrible.
The drivers were pulled out of a half stack. I figured they would sound bad, but not as bad as they did. My friend had gotten some eminence instrument speakers and they worked very well in his monitors.
Turns out these things have a qts of 1.3! and an FS of 83hrtz.

I'm currently saving up to get some proper drivers.
I'm glad I didn't get these out yet and kill some peoples ears.
So I'm under the impression that I want a driver with high BL and low QTS. Am I right?
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Posted By: djtecthreat
Date Posted: 02 November 2008 at 10:17pm
I just ordered some of these...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-414&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=8862812#reviews
To try in mine. $80/ea free ship cant go wrong if they don't work you can always build a reflex for the bedroom or something.
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 02 November 2008 at 10:31pm
Do let me know how they perform. They do have parameters near what I want.
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Posted By: djtecthreat
Date Posted: 02 November 2008 at 11:01pm
Will do waffles..
Where did you get your ply from? I cant find a good source for the 15MM ply? I can get good ply in 1/2" and 3/4" but not 5/8".
-Jim
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 03 November 2008 at 12:00am
Just use 3/4" ply. The thickness won't affect the build.
Also, there's an error in the plans. Piece F should not be 388mm in depth. IDK how long it should be. I would suggest cutting it to 388, then cut it down accordingly when you start to assemble the cabinet.
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Posted By: djtecthreat
Date Posted: 03 November 2008 at 12:56am
I was planning on using 3/4" Mostly because it's a bit stronger, just wasn't sure if it would throw the plans out too much.
Did you build yours with 3/4"?
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Posted By: wafflesomd
Date Posted: 03 November 2008 at 1:13am
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