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re drilling 1850 baffle, help..

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: 1850 and 186 horns
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the 1850 and 186 horns
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=29095
Printed Date: 03 February 2023 at 12:18am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.05 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: re drilling 1850 baffle, help..
Posted By: AJ
Subject: re drilling 1850 baffle, help..
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 6:33am
Hi

Does any1 have any pointers to make re drilling a baffle on 1850 cab from pd1850 to v18 as stress free as possible and any advise on the best filler to use??


thanks in advance

adam



Replies:
Posted By: stitchy
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 8:43am
hi mate i would use car body filler sets nice and hard P38 from halfords £6-7 others may use other fillers see what they also recommend
 
                    cheers stitchy


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:09am
Adam open the cab from the top, sand down remove screws , carefully .
thats what i´d do


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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk


Posted By: luke_0301
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:30am
Originally posted by Father-Francis Father-Francis wrote:

Adam open the cab from the top, sand down remove screws , carefully .
thats what i´d do
 
only do this if it is marine ply! a friend tried this with his cabs made from 18mm wbp,and you will end up splitting the top as it comes off! if it was glued well enough that is! 


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more bass please


Posted By: nickyburnell
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 9:47am
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/87121/Power-Tools/Angled-Drills/Ryobi-One-CAP-1801M-18V-Angled-Drill-Driver-Bare?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Power%20Tools-_-Ryobi%20One%2B%20CAP-1801M%2018V%20Angled%20Drill%20Driver%20-%20Bare - http://www.screwfix.com/prods/87121/Power-Tools/Angled-Drills/Ryobi-One-CAP-1801M-18V-Angled-Drill-Driver-Bare?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Power%20Tools-_-Ryobi%20One%2B%20CAP-1801M%2018V%20Angled%20Drill%20Driver%20-%20Bare


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It's everything, not everythink!


Posted By: biotec
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:08am
drilling the holes at the back of the chamber will be extremly difficult as you probably don't have a enough room to get a drill chuck in. Perhaps you could use one of those flexible drill shafts? I have never used one but they look useful if they work properly.
 
Francis's suggestion is best if you can do it without mullering the cab. Taking a crowbar to your pride and joy is always painfull. If the top doesn't come off without a fight when you have removed all the screws (including the brace), I would carefully cut along the joint using a plunge saw. Make sure that the saw blade thickness is in the end panel so that you can just replace the whole panel once it is off.


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me so horny, me love you long throw.


Posted By: ceharden
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:27am
Consider using clamps rather than bolting through the chassis perhaps.  Means you don't have to be quite so accurate with the hole positions.


Posted By: Dom
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 10:57am
Or just use 1850 drivers...  A lot less hassle...

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"It sounded like a million fire engines chasing ten million ambulances through a war zone and it was played at a volume that made the empty chair beside me bleed."


Posted By: shagnasty
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 12:54pm
Whip the screws out the top and use a festool saw on a guide to slice the top off the cab, you loose 3.2mm of material which if you are good can be 0.2mm of cab and 3mm of lid, screw lid back on upside down and make good with P38....
 
Smile


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 1:55pm
Originally posted by Dom Dom wrote:

Or just use 1850 drivers...  A lot less hassle...


Yes...

I have 2x of them for sale... LOL


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 24 July 2009 at 2:28pm
Thanks for all of your suggestions, I don't really feel confident enough to start hacking the cabs apart my self. The clamp idea sounds like the best bet, does anyone know where i can get suitable ones from at all?   


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 3:45pm
any1 please? bluearan seem to stock them but would this be ok to hold an 18inch driver in place?


Posted By: jimbo..
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:27pm
I think there are only two different sizes of clamp. Small one's which will hold up to 12" and the bigger ones for everything above.

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Posted By: jimbo..
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:28pm
Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...

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Add "Harmonize soundz" on facebook....


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 4:56pm
Originally posted by jimbo.. jimbo.. wrote:

Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...



hummzzz  thats what i thought, check ur sj messages please mate Smile


Posted By: shagnasty
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:01pm
In particular THAT 18"....... I haven't used the drivers but have you put them on top of each other? if even 2 holes lined up I would be tempted to bolt through those to stop slipping and then use 4 clamps as well for the space inbetween..... that is a hell of a lot of driver to have held with just clamps, if nothing lines up spinning a bit of 12mm ply as an end stop for the rear of the cab so the driver butts up against that would at least stop sliding on 3 of the 4 axis.....
 
Tricky job, I think I would weld a cut off drill bit into a a 1/4" socket and stuff it in an air rachet to re-drill the baffle............


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by jimbo.. jimbo.. wrote:

Although some say that its not advisable to hold 18's with just clamps...


Best Tell Tony Rossells what he's been doing wrong all these years then... LOL

http://imageshack.us/">

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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: shagnasty
Date Posted: 25 July 2009 at 5:27pm
In fairness the pics shown are front loaded so the cut-out (which I bet it pretty bloody acurrate) stops any "slippage" concerns..... But I get your point.....
 
Embarrassed


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 26 July 2009 at 10:47am
dint think this wanna guna be as tricky as this... pulling the top off the cab is not really an option tbh, may i could use a combination of screws and clamps??  


Posted By: ceharden
Date Posted: 26 July 2009 at 11:32am
I only meant use clamps where you can't get in to accurately drill holes to bolt through.  For a heavy driver like that, I would use more than four clamps if I had to do it with them alone.


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 26 July 2009 at 12:42pm
ahhh i see now, Il take your advise and use both screws and clamps..  thanks for every1s input Smile


Posted By: East End Radio
Date Posted: 19 September 2009 at 1:00am
I am new here and have only just read this post. I know this is an old post, and you have probably sorted this by now, but this info might be useful to others. I had the same problem on some horns a few years back, the answer was key hole surgery. First I made up a cardboard template of the new hole layout. Next get hold of a peice of round wooden broom handle to use as  plugs, so you know what size hole to drill, this is about 25mm, or more. Look through the driver access hole put your template where your new driver is going to go as a guide. You then drill a hole though the top of the cab, use a hole saw, just under the the size of the broom handle, right over the position of your new fixing holes. I done this by eye and it wooked out O/K, but you can measure from the inside of the cab and then mark the outside up before drilling. Once you have access from the top of the cabinet, you can easilly drill your new fixing holes from the top. I had a big chuck on my drill and it would not go though the the 25mm holes I drilled, so I used a long (SHARP) masonary drill to reach the baffle. Once I had made the new holes, I pressed in the new "T" nuts using a mole grip though the speaker cut out, a bit fiddly for the ones nearest the front, (2 of), but the rest were easy. FIT YOUR NEW DRIVER NOW, before you plug the holes, you can fit all the bolts and tighten them easily. Now cover your new driver with a towel and use short pieces of your broom handle to plug the 25mm holes you drilled. Shave them down for a tight fit and use wood glue and tap them in nearly flush with the top of the cab, sand down flush, fill and repaint, job done.  

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EER - At The Centre Of Everything



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