I would really like to try a pair, but not sure who could build them properly for me / how much it's going to cost.

Currently using 4 stacks of EV MT2, but want to cut the weight and size down a bit.

but not sure who could build them properly for me

Try loophole on SJ.  He's done some very nice ones for other people first and now he knows what it'll take, could prob give you an accurate quote

Hello,

That Punisher looks really good!

Nice to hear they did well compared to the 18" reflex. Remember the more Punishers you add the more impressive they become. Compared with a stack of two a single Punisher really is less effective. Also that 800W is a bit shy, the Punisher likes about 1500W of clean signal. In thay case it really starts to move the air.

Keep up the good work, your system with 8 Punishers should offer some serious bass.

Best regards,

Walt

Hello,

Using a 15" driver in the Punisher would not give good results. The compression ratio would be too large. This would mean some serious forces acting on the cone.

Also the horn is designed around the Ciare 12.00SW and based on that T/S parameters. Using a 15" would mean you would have to redesign the whole box and it will not be a Punisher anymore. I have not seen many 15" horn designs with a long horn, it seems most long basshorns either use 12" or 18" drivers. The 15" is very popular in short (midbass) horns. But of course with the correct T/S parameters a longer horn design should well be possible.

As for the 12" Ciare driver, too bad in some countries they are hard to get or expensive. Here in the netherlands they are cheaper than most 18" drivers while offering about the same magnet/voicecoil size. That means lot of power to drive the small strong cone for maximum output.

Best regards,

Walt

Hello,

I think you have to A/B your Punisher loaded with P-Audio against one loaded with the Ciare. My concerns with the P-Audio are its small lineair x-max which mean the BL factor will drop when the coil leaves the airgap when driven hard. But I agree the P-Audio T/S look good. Too bad with P-audio you never know what specs will be on the actual box in which the drivers arrive. These specs always seem to differ from what can be found on the P-audio website...

Best regards,

Walt

I've often thought about designing a horn similar to the Punisher, based around the Ciare 15.00 SW.

Walt, do you think this is an option?

I did mean in a bigger enclosure, would be nice if it could go a bit lower than the Punisher.

On a different note, I've found that Ciare do an in car equivalent of the 12.00 SW with two 2ohm voice coils, I'm toying with the idea of building a system into a car with two reworked Punishers in the boot, reckon it could do some serious SPL. I'm thinking about using to rear screen as one side for the final section/mouth of the horn.

Any thoughts?

sounds like a plan. would have a very large mouth

btw

whats the sensitivity of the punisher?

Punisher is only 102dB sensitivity, but with two and the huge mouth of the horn, combined with the enclosed environment of the car, I think it would be pretty loud. I've found an amp that will put out 1500w RMS @ 1ohm, so a pair of them should power the system nicely!

Only an idea at the moment, but it could be fum to upset a few people in the world of in car SPL with some interesting horn designs.

little bit off topic. but does any one know the sense of an 186 bin? and max SPL.

planning of having 16 in my rig

will it hit 150db?

iain

kev, if you make your removable battens as one piece, in a ring, and make it precisely, you wont have a problem with leaks etc. i make mine like this, and then bolt them in tight on all sides while the box is gluing, so the panels making up the rear chamber have a good tight fit with the battens.

unless you want to use woodscrews as you mentioned above, the only other way would be to recess the hatch to half depth right beyond the rear chamber panels, so the nuts have a clear space to sit in.

however if you did this the hatch would have very extended thin flimsy edges - i would probably opt for an aluminium plate instead if i was going to do it this way...

We just routed 7.5mm deep from both the access panel and the side panel.  We chose 20mm as the width of route.

We used screws to hold the access panel on.  It's unlikely you'll need to get in them again, the drivers seem so solid.

One inside edge of the side panel will need an additional piece of scrap wood screwed inside.  This is because the screw wouldn't grip onto much.  All the other screws can go into the edges.

I don't know if that makes much sense, perhaps a diagram would be better?!!!!