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Djyves Projects CB(X)-18's, TH-SPUD, Duran, CNC

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Topic: Djyves Projects CB(X)-18's, TH-SPUD, Duran, CNC
Posted By: djyves
Subject: Djyves Projects CB(X)-18's, TH-SPUD, Duran, CNC
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 11:15am
Index:
- Build of CB-18's starts at this page
- Build of the modded X10 starts at Page 11
- Duran tops start on page 12
- Build of TH-Spud start on page 17
- Build of CBX's start at page 19
- Build of CNC machine starts at page 29
 
 
First a little introduction I am Yves am 15 Years old and I live in the netherlands (may be a bit late introduction 166post) I already have a pair of hd15s and I cut the wood for another 2, now I am going to build a CB-18 and a X1 and I am going to decide what to use: CB-18 or the X1 and hd15 combo.

Edit: I am not going to build an X1 anymore
 

More info on the Cb-18  http://forum.speakerplans.com/beware-the-one-eyed-monster_topic39393.html" rel="nofollow - here  and  http://www.freespeakerplans.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=64&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=7&t=1132&time=1278497070" rel="nofollow - here

Yesterday I started sawing the wood for one CB-18:
wood sawed:

sanded:

the other 3 planels for a x1 and an another project:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"



Replies:
Posted By: king david
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 11:30am
is that birch or poplar wood?
 
have a nice time building the cabs!


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http://www.warriorcharge.noblogs.org


Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 11:34am
i'm 33 and i still don't have a workshop like that. great stuff man.


Posted By: Edward James
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 12:17pm
i'm 32 and i still here.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 4:50pm
My dad has a construction company, so that explains the workshop.
nothing glued yet, only biscuits
Just did some work, some pics:
drawing:

again build with lamello/biscuits:

construction:

some more:

for all pics: http://s593.photobucket.com/albums/tt14/djyves/Cb-18%20build/ - click here




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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 5:01pm
http://rs861.rapidshare.com/files/393339533/kast_zonder_laatste_paneel.skp - here is a 3d drawing in .skp (sketchup)
and a cutsheet:



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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 7:02pm
Yves  excellent work! 15 years old but serious woodworking skills Thumbs Up





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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 7:45pm
I gave my prototype to a free special brew type.
He left it in the rain!


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It just is.


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by The Builder The Builder wrote:

I gave my prototype to a free special brew type.
He left it in the rain!


Damnnnn Cry   ,first one ..ruined totally or?

for PD186 tryout?


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 9:29pm
I haven't bought a speaker yet, will a PD186 do as good as a void v18-1000?

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 10:00pm
Yesterday I have ordered: blue wheels+tnuts and bolts to assemble the wheels, and a few connector panels. they should be delivered tomorrow.


I am going to router handles in the top and bottom with a small box behind, will this have much effect on the sound?


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 10:44pm
Originally posted by staiper staiper wrote:

Originally posted by The Builder The Builder wrote:

I gave my prototype to a free special brew type.
He left it in the rain!


Damnnnn Cry   ,first one ..ruined totally or?

for PD186 tryout?
I had to move lock-ups, sharpish. Just after I finished our horse decided it didn't want me on it's back! Straight out of side door, 17 stone (me) landing on my kidneysCry
In the middle of this he said he'd have it for now. Later I find it wouldn't go through the door of his caravan......
It's MDF...
I'm only just properly mobile now, found out when I couldn't move....
The control of driver was as such that I would say any driver will be cool...
Bit like a T18, chuck anything inWink (not suggesting the sound was like a t18)..


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It just is.


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 07 July 2010 at 10:46pm
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

I haven't bought a speaker yet, will a PD186 do as good as a void v18-1000?
Well, at least you'll be able to get a reconeWink
 
I recon 186 will be fine, try to get the Fane 1000 though, it's a winner in that cab, I know first hand.


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It just is.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 8:34am
I can get v18-1000 for the money of 186, so I will take the V18-1000, I think that will be fine from 40 upto 140hz.

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 8:06pm
I was gluing caps for behind my handles:

but I think it will interrupt the airflow to much:
and:

So I am thinking of buying steel bar handles:  http://www.licht-geluid.nl/flightcase-onderdelen/grote-speakergreep.aspx - click here

What do you guys think.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 8:39pm
You also have to think of the braces, they may well be where handles want to be.
Have you worked out assembley sequence with braces yet?


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It just is.


Posted By: Louder than loud
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 8:52pm
Very nice build :)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 9:28pm
I have biscuited the braces, so if I put It together for gluing I put the braces in too.

But can I place these boxes, without interrupting the sound? is no will the steel bar handles be good at thesame place.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by Louder than loud Louder than loud wrote:

Very nice build :)

Thanks.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 11:17pm
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

I have biscuited the braces, so if I put It together for gluing I put the braces in too.

But can I place these boxes, without interrupting the sound? is no will the steel bar handles be good at thesame place.
Thats a good idea.
Bar handles or how about the spring ones, like for flight cases.
http://www.terralec.co.uk/handles/sprung_handle_black/20211_p.html - http://www.terralec.co.uk/handles/sprung_handle_black/20211_p.html
No protrusion


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It just is.


Posted By: djeddie
Date Posted: 08 July 2010 at 11:34pm
Originally posted by The Builder The Builder wrote:

Thats a good idea.
Bar handles or how about the spring ones, like for flight cases.
http://www.terralec.co.uk/handles/sprung_handle_black/20211_p.html - http://www.terralec.co.uk/handles/sprung_handle_black/20211_p.html
No protrusion


That's the ones I always use, as said, no protrusion.


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Chas n Dave : it's like Drum and Bass but with beards.             E=mc² ±3dB


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 7:43am
Aren't sprung handles going to rattle, or is that negligible.

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 10:22am
just  idea .. how I would place handles if doing them for myself.



Two "slot" handles are by front edge o the cabinet.
Version "A" may look funny but in fact rear handle is here just to help a bit while horizontally stacking cabinets. .. (yes I know that while doing this front handles will be in vertical position so not most comfortable , but we all are tough boys and will not complain for that second or two :) )
For for moving around front "slot" handles may be enough. Cabinet is not too deep (618mm) so will not make problems.

For more holding flexibility option "B" may be good idea..

I would use ready made 4-ways handle like http://www.terralec.co.uk/handles/four_directional_insert_handle/16480_p.html - THIS because it will not obstruct horn area much as 18mm panel wooden box.

If you plan to use wooden box + handmade cutout 4--way handle ..may be good idea to use a bit thinner wood (10mm is more than enough rigid for such small handle box) .. make them shallow (25mm for fingers is OK - 35 mm total internal protrusion) and place them in rear corners like option "B" so you can use cabinet panels as part of "handle-box" - easy
 (I hope that is understandable from my not so great english writing - if necesarry I can make scatch)  :)



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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 11:19am
I already made a jig for the slot handles, the other handles I can router is afterwards if I already glued the box, next week or something I can buy handles. would it be a good idea to use http://www.thomann.de/nl/adam_hall_3405_schalengriff.htm" rel="nofollow - these on the back

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 11:20am
Where in the Netherlands can I get the four way plastic handles?

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 11:22am
found http://www.thomann.de/nl/adam_hall_3403_griffschale.htm - them  but a bit pricey here

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

I alerdy made a jig for the slot handles, the other handles I can router is afterwards if I already glued the box, next week or something I can buy handles. would it be a good idea to use http://www.thomann.de/nl/adam_hall_3405_schalengriff.htm - these on the back


I have also thought about that ones as elegant solution:



-handles on sketch are on scale

If you like it (may be not necessary but.. will be a bit easier to hold while holding horizontally)  you can also move front slot handles a bit closer to front edge like on sketch and open them on front side to (like on your SketchUp 3D model)


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 July 2010 at 10:47pm
Didn't do much work on the CB-18 today, but I sawed the last two panels, and finished my stolpcase.
If I have time tomorrow I will router in the front handles

last 2 panels putted in:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: keyvin
Date Posted: 10 July 2010 at 1:16pm
These are just a bit cheaper:
http://www2.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=300590

Staiper's 2nd idea for handles is nice too...


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I'd rather be lost in Bass than lost in Space!


Posted By: kiriiz
Date Posted: 10 July 2010 at 2:52pm
Very interesting to compare X1 and CB-18 sound!


Posted By: t.geessounds
Date Posted: 10 July 2010 at 3:25pm
might be a stupid queastion but where is the speaker hole????


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 10 July 2010 at 3:47pm
hehe... forgot it,
 
no ofcourse not, nothing is glued yet only biscuits, will router the hole in if i have bought a speaker.
I think I am going to buy v18-1000's, but if I don't I must router the hole bigger or smaller.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 12 July 2010 at 4:21pm
now I can choose between the:
Void V18-1000
B&C 18tbx 100
PD 186

what would you do?


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 13 July 2010 at 10:45am
anyone?

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 13 July 2010 at 3:31pm
Hi,

I would go with 18TBX100 .. sims smooth as PD186 and have a bit more sensitivity from 70Hz up.. also a bit less cone excursion at same power than PD186 (but just a bit) .. both are specified xmax = 9mm.
+18tbx100 have higher power rating wich is always good when bass is in question. :)

Void V18-1000 sims peaky in this cabinet (~45Hz and 110Hz) .. but pretty same happens with simulation of original Danley TH115 which in real world appears to be flat (rally flat as line in cluster of four) .. so V18-1000 may be excellent if planing to use in stacks (4+)


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 13 July 2010 at 3:37pm
how much power will the 18tbx100 need and how much the v18-1000 before reaching/exeeding xmax. Also what program do you use to sim?

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 13 July 2010 at 6:12pm
staiper, can you put up or email both sims so I can compare? thanks in advance.

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 16 July 2010 at 3:13pm
glued some things:





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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: t.geessounds
Date Posted: 16 July 2010 at 3:20pm
now i see the speaker hole lol nice job


Posted By: colint
Date Posted: 17 July 2010 at 4:34pm
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

I alerdy made a jig for the slot handles, the other handles I can router is afterwards if I already glued the box, next week or something I can buy handles. would it be a good idea to use http://www.thomann.de/nl/adam_hall_3405_schalengriff.htm - these on the back

Thank's for that link been looking for those handle's for a couple of week's now!

By the way nice to see someone of your age being so competent at woodwork! Well done! Big smile


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Never criticise another man until you've walked a mile in his shoes. Once you have, call him what you like, you're a mile away and you've got his shoes!


Posted By: scottylaroq
Date Posted: 19 July 2010 at 5:13am
holy craftsmanship! compared to any(and theres very few) young speaker builders in my area, the woodwork on those is second to none.(better than mine to boot! hahaha)

also very commendable for building 2 designs! i wasted weeks waffling between a few designs, and ended up building a long folded horn, which i ten converted to a long rear loaded horn. And to this day i still have nightmares about "what if i had gone for x1s?" as i can fit 2 x1s and change in the volume of one of my bass horns!.

in fact this may have inspired me to bust out the table saw and try building an x1!


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 19 July 2010 at 9:43am
I don't think I am going to build the X1 anymore, because the 18tbx100 isn't good in the X1, and the V18-1000 not such as good an the tbx in the CB-18.
Or will the 18tbx100 be good in the X1?


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 19 July 2010 at 9:58pm
Today putted it completely together, can't find my mobile phone cable so pics tomorrow.

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 20 July 2010 at 4:52pm
Found my mobile phone cable so here are some more pics:

last pic before I closed it:

front:

back:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 20 July 2010 at 4:54pm
no handles in yet, when I wanted to buy them they weren't in stock.
it are going to be 4 metal bar handles I think.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: JDCutta
Date Posted: 21 July 2010 at 11:58am
Cool stuff will be watching this closely, cant wait to hear the review!

Great work btw.


Posted By: t.geessounds
Date Posted: 21 July 2010 at 3:28pm

that thing look so sweet nice job!!!!!!!!!!



Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 21 July 2010 at 3:56pm
Don't know what it is about the site you store you images on by 9 times out of 10 they don't load for me.

I have similar problem with Music store and Thomann. odd.


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 21 July 2010 at 3:57pm
Ah Ha

They just loaded.

Good job Thumbs Up

Let us know how they sound.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 27 July 2010 at 2:39pm
I can get 2 v18-1000 for 440 euro now, or 2x 18tbx100 for 475.
What would you do?


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: bitzo
Date Posted: 27 July 2010 at 3:43pm
make me a gift Tongue

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http://www.unitedroots.it - United Roots SoundSystem site


Posted By: jonny4288
Date Posted: 04 August 2010 at 11:46pm
i would go with the designers suggestion... :P

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mt122's usb2's


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 6:51pm
Another question: is a grill of 1mm thick enough?

and btw, it is going to be the Void v18-1000.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: _djk_
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 10:12pm
"Another question: is a grill of 1mm thick enough?"

No, 1.5mm is about the minimum.

EV used some 1mm stock, but they had a special texture rolled into the sheet to make it stiffer.


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djk


Posted By: kevinmcdonough
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 10:53pm
hey

great build, i'm just in the middle of cutting wood for 4 of these at the moment (which'll also be V18-1000 loaded), as well as 4 tops based on a single SMT but adjusted slightly for stacking and also some flightcases.

Got a pile done today, another day should get all the cutting done, another for routing and then i'll be ready to start assembling Smile   problem has just been getting days i'm off which are also dry!  Once its all cut assembly will be fairly quick can do that inside whatever the weather, and hopefully get to give them a blast at a gig a week on wednesday.

will get picks up soon.


k



Posted By: kevinmcdonough
Date Posted: 07 August 2010 at 11:04pm
ps.

yeah go for 1.5mm grills.  Markie on here is great for grills as i'm sure you know, i got my grills couple of weeks ago from him for my CB-18's, and the tops ones earlier this week.

Don't know what delivery to you would be but may be worth contacting him, service and quality are second to none :)

k


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 08 August 2010 at 10:21pm
So, just bought 2 Void V18-1000s, and tested it a bit,
but it was already a bit late so no good testing.

Think I go on tomorrow, will post test report.



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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 08 August 2010 at 10:36pm
Stand back, the energy is amazingWink

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It just is.


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 09 August 2010 at 2:10am
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

So, just bought 2 Void V18-1000s, and tested it a bit,
but it was already a bit late so no good testing.

Think I go on tomorrow, will post test report.



Before serious test give em at least few (5-6 .. preferably more) hours at moderate or high power (LF sine wave sweep tones or similar LF music material)  so driver "sing in" in cabinet (especially if speakers units are factory new).

Some drivers really need that (some more ...some less.. but..)  to show its real potential and  character (experienced that many times especially on rear loaded horns.. so same may be case with tappeds). .. always may expect more pleasant , natural sound once driver is "singed in" (+15-20 hours of work at high power)





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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 09 August 2010 at 2:23am
ehh.. if you have some DSP unit do not forget HPF(lowcut) at 35-38Hz - Butterworth 18db/oct (or 24db/oct if you plan to punish em with monster amplifier)

LPF(highcut) 110-140 .. use you ear to find what sounds best to you (still I have never heard them at all so this is best I can suggest now :)  ) Big smile


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 August 2010 at 8:56am
The speakers are factory new, I have a dcx 2496 ultradrive.

Yesterday my highpass was 38hz 24db/oct running to 140, but still need to test and measure them, think I am going to do that today.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 09 August 2010 at 9:51pm
The only thing I can say now is Impressive, still not measured but I have a few pics:
Cb-18 is powered by a crest v1500 in bridge, no eq'ing, highpass 38hz 24db/oct lowpass 120hz 24db/oct. hd in the pic is not loaded and just for the height of the top.

One of the 2 V18-1000s and some objects to compare the size, magnet is almost 12''.


today small test next to a rcf sub from a friend:

The rcf goes a bit lower but the Cb-18 louder.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 09 August 2010 at 11:10pm
Thumbs Up

Great stuff, gotta love those V1000s

When you take your measurements make sure you measure the RCF at the same time (just so we have something to compare it against.  

Looking forward to it. Smile


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 10 August 2010 at 9:52am
If I ran the cb-18 at full power you can see vibrate the board in front of the speaker a little bit, so it needs some bracing there, I mean this:
the red parts vibrate a bit:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 10 August 2010 at 9:55am
Ran Fane 1000 flat out with no vibration. Cabs were MDF and my building skils were no where near as good as yours..
With respect to you, that ply is not very good, not sound cab material at all. It will vibrate.


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It just is.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 10 August 2010 at 10:02am
Yes, I know it is not good ply, but the vibration is just a little, I need to attatch the grill to somthing so, I am going to do this: 

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 10 August 2010 at 5:35pm
I'ts ply for flooring/roofing, but It doesn't vibrate anymore.

Just cut and sanded the wood for the second CB-18.
I hope to put some together tomorrow.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 11 August 2010 at 6:20pm
all panels biscuited,
tomorrow I hope to put&glue it together.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 12 August 2010 at 2:12pm
Thumbs Up   Yves

That will be nice little stack.
You can expect full potential and a bit more LF extension and a bit more "warmth" and details (do not know what is your first impression) after few parties of work.

Also try them without wheel board under CB-18. Such gap under box affects ground coupling and may affect LF spl.

Once more big up for your cabinet building skills! ..

Impatiently waiting for first test results and impressions of 2 x CB-18.




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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 12 August 2010 at 5:18pm
Second one is completely putted together, tomorrow installing driver.

After I made that photo I removed the wheelboard, and it was noticable.
Does anyone know If a chameleon 3750dp/2 will do 4r bridge on sub 38-121hz.
It will do 3700w @4r bridge 1850w per driver, so enough headroom.
Datasheet: http://www.gbaudio.co.uk/data/2750dp2.htm - Here


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 12 August 2010 at 10:06pm
Just measured the amp at a friend no thd measured, 8r about 600w 4r about 900w.
If I bridge it and turn channel 2 up it goes directly into protect, so it won't do anything in bridge does anyone know why?


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 13 August 2010 at 12:38pm
Originally posted by djyves djyves wrote:

Just measured the amp by a friend no thd measured, 8r about 600w 4r about 900w.
If I bridge it and turn channel 2 up it goes directly into protect, so it won't do anything in bridge does anyone know why?

The amp shouldn't go into protect mode when channel 2 control is moved. 
Normally when an amp is bridged channel two level control should not be active. 

Going out a bit of a limb. Possibly the amp is not properly bridged (maybe broken switch or the like) and that is why protection is turning on?


Posted By: jonny4288
Date Posted: 13 August 2010 at 5:18pm
http://forum.speakerplans.com/smartlight-chameleon-3750dp-how-good-is-it_topic14741_page1.html

apparently not the case with this amp speaker sol, looks to be rather strange :P


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mt122's usb2's


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 13 August 2010 at 5:18pm
Yea the switch is not that good anymore, but I tried already without the switch so out of phase on my dcx2496, both channels full open then It seems to work, the only thing is that one of the channels is much louder. and btw the second CB-18 is ready to load.

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 13 August 2010 at 5:27pm
Interesting. 


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 14 August 2010 at 5:03pm
At this time my highpass is set to 38hz and my lowpass to 121hz, and with a bit of eq'ing I got the line flat. pictures will be on later. One thing is for sure it delivers a big pressure!

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 10:48am
some measuring data (not calibrated):
 
no highpass/lowpass and no eq:
 
highpass 38hz lowpass 121hz:
 
highpass 38hz lowpass 121hz with eq:
 
highpass 38hz lowpass 121hz with a bit more of eq'ing:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 11:08am
In pic 2, 3 and 4 ignore the noise in the room

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 11:53am
Looks like it can be flat from 3Hz up. Hows the excursion control in the box?

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Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: daywalk3r
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 3:07pm
Either is the 64Hz peak a nasty room resonance (+ 96Hz & 128Hz harmonics), or all the sims are off by about 15Hz. The former seems to be most likely the correct case, though.

After substracting the 64Hz mode (+resonances), it quite surprisingly fits with the simmed peak/fall-off @ about 48Hz (for Void V18-1000). Akabak sims with a "stepped" horn (instead of a conical one, as used in Hornresp) suggest a shifted response by about +3Hz and 1 to 1.5dB lower efficiency on average (as compared to HR sims), but that should still be within the measurement error tollerance.

One thing I would really like to know is, how does it sound @ about 46-50Hz?
Because the sims suggest a rather "gargantuan" group delay peak (up to 35ms) at these frequencies for the aforementioned driver (V18-1000).
Try to run a 50Hz sine through it and listen wether it's not too "boomy".

Thanks for the report  & keep us posted. Thumbs up from me! ;-)

Cheers.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 4:37pm
The measurement is taken in the workshop, soon I have an outside party.
then I will measure them again.

about the group delay peak:
I will try the sinewaves.

I'll keep you updated


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: Pirlo
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 6:11pm
NL-outside-party!? Wich style(s)!? Big smile


Posted By: antonio
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 7:37pm
Cryhello I need a project for a subwoofer or even 1x18 to 2x18 menza trumpet or even a project that comes to 140 db please help me thanks in advanceCryCry


Posted By: Speaker Sol
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 7:39pm
Originally posted by antonio antonio wrote:

Cryhello I need a project for a subwoofer or even 1x18 to 2x18 menza trumpet or even a project that comes to 140 db please help me thanks in advanceCryCry

Pull yourself together man!


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 16 August 2010 at 7:58pm
Originally posted by Pirlo Pirlo wrote:

NL-outside-party!? Wich style(s)!? Big smile

not a free party or something, just some music and lights on a party for +/- 50 persons.
But the person who rents it likes big speakers, so I take both with me and will measure it there.
I'ts a birthday or something. so all styles.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: bass traffic
Date Posted: 20 August 2010 at 3:32pm
So how many sheets of ply do you need for each cabinet? Assuming a 1.2m x 2.4m sheet?
 
Very interested in building some of these as I have 3 pairs of rcf 15" cones sitting doing nothing at the moment and this seems like it would make a good sub for a smallish band system or small club pa.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 20 August 2010 at 3:48pm
On the first page I posted a cutsheet, indeed 2 panels of 1.2m x 2.4m, what drivers do you have?

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: bass traffic
Date Posted: 20 August 2010 at 3:59pm
I haven't got them with me or written down, I did write it down but I'm a bit messy!
As far as I remember it was L15 P or S 800, L15 542K or 554K or something and Oh I can't remember the other one!
Some of them need reconing but I got them pretty cheap with that in mind, I mean they are like £150 each so £50/60 a recone odd is still gonna be a fair bargain.


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 20 August 2010 at 10:45pm
CB-18 is made for an 18'' driver but you could sim your 15'' drivers.

Hornresp input parameters:
S1= 800
L1(L12)= Con 21
S2= 756
L2(L23)=Con 189
S3= 2050
L3(L34)=Con 19
S4= 3670


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 5:17pm
Here is a picture of the two and as you see its a bad place to measure your speakers:


and when I had nothing to do, I build an mth-30 in less than one hour, to test some different 12'' drivers. picture:


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 5:36pm
the car in the background mmmmmh 403 from the 60´s no? nice set of wheels that

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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk


Posted By: jonny4288
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 5:39pm
nice quick build on the mth30 :P did you biscuit it in that time too ? lol

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mt122's usb2's


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 6:08pm
I just screwed the mth30, didn't use lamello

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 6:53pm
wooowow .. first impressions of two CB-18s working together (most likely still not fully "singed-in" .. but ..however :) )
???? Big smile


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 7:40pm
First impression was (wow!!) very loud, and sounds very good, one bose 802 with 220w is not enough (think I got to use my s1200)

The photo was made on the same day as the measurements 15 august,
didn't pushed them hard for a long time, neighbours...

But after the party on 4 september I will post more info on how it sounds.
Still need to order handles and paint.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 7:47pm
One sounds good, but if you use 2 you'll go slightly lower and louderWink

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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"


Posted By: staiper
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 11:24pm
..just BTW (not directly related to CB-18 but..) I have thought and rough sketched dedicated top cabinet for CB-18 with closely similar sized cabinet (only depth of cabinet will be reduced)

Thought about it to form relatively compact but slick looking, good sounding and powerfull ground stack system (maybe 3 CB-18 + two dedicated tops on them all stacked horizontally) Geek

If idea ever become live in form of usable plans I will inform interested test DIY builders. 


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Just do it! ..or do not.. ;)


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 25 August 2010 at 11:29pm
To add, the energy out of this cab with a Fane 1000 was brilliant.
Single driver solution for dance, proper hard build to a non chippy, but I managed it.
The attack from bass to kick was amazing.


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It just is.


Posted By: streetsounds
Date Posted: 28 August 2010 at 1:38pm
Putting two together side by side, how low does it goes?

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Bass matters...


Posted By: djyves
Date Posted: 02 September 2010 at 8:44pm
Originally posted by streetsounds streetsounds wrote:

Putting two together side by side, how low does it goes?

When I measured them, i set my highpass at 38hz, but then I tried to go lower, you'll reach about 35 hz, will measure again, outside. and then see how low it goes.


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"If brute force doesn't work, you're just not using enough!"



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