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1850 2 screws hard to reach at the back

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: 1850 and 186 horns
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the 1850 and 186 horns
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=50745
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 9:30am
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Topic: 1850 2 screws hard to reach at the back
Posted By: Powie4321
Subject: 1850 2 screws hard to reach at the back
Date Posted: 06 April 2011 at 1:15am
Does it matter that i have not been able to fix in 2 of the screws at the back of the driver as i havnt got the correct tool to do the job, will this cause me any big issues? ive had the bins playin a few times and it doesnt seem to of made a difference with sound quality but it would be nice to know frm someone with exsperiance, that if i have the bins playin over 12 hours or so etc could it cause any damage? any help appreciated. cheers



Replies:
Posted By: jbinks
Date Posted: 11 April 2011 at 1:41pm
It's not going to cause issues with the sound, but it could be an issue with the holding strength.

If the cab gets a knock, you might find that the bolts strip the t-nuts and the driver breaks free. It's also possible for the basket to be deformed (and I would say quite likely as you've got two missing bolts right beside each other).

You don't need any special tool. Just a normal hex key. It's a tedious and slow job, but not hard.

I found a small 3/8inch ratchet driver and a hex bit *just* fits into the space. You'll need to guide the bit into the bolt carefully, but once it's in, you're in business.

Also, I might be stating the obvious, but I've known people not to know this: Put the cab upside down when bolting the driver in!!
I've seen people trying to hold the driver in one hand, whilst trying to get the bolts in with the other!!

Cheers,
John



Posted By: Powie4321
Date Posted: 12 April 2011 at 4:12pm
hex keys dont you mean allan keys? weve put pozzy drive screws in to bolt it in, so i dnt know how that wud work, can we change the screw type, oh and dont worry we put the cab upside down i thort it wud be impossible to do it the other way round, so what you have just said about the driver becoming loose because of it missing 2 screws is this in extreme cases when they have been used for 100's of hours or would happen quite quickly?


Posted By: jbinks
Date Posted: 12 April 2011 at 5:28pm
Get some hex ("allen") drive bolts. Do they job properly.

And when you say "weve put pozzy drive screws in" I assume you mean BOLTS... not screws...
If you did mean "screws" then you need to think seriously about mounting the driver properly (BOLTS, T-NUTS!).

It's nothing to do with the amount of time the driver is in use. The load placed on the mounting by the driver operating is nothing.

It's the 25KG WEIGHT of the driver that's the issue! As soon as the cab bumps into anything, the load on the basket and it's mountings will be very high and can easily pull mountings out or bend the basket.


Posted By: Powie4321
Date Posted: 12 April 2011 at 8:22pm
no weve used pozzy drive screws m8, we brought 3 of them loaded already and theyve all got screws in aswell, its just the 4th that were havin to load ourselves, surely most people who load these bins use screws, i kno the drivers are 25kg but i kno that screws do tend to grip in to wood pretty goodl seein as people use screws to bond things to wood all the time. i wood like to do a proper job its just having the time!


Posted By: The Builder
Date Posted: 12 April 2011 at 8:35pm
Take them out and do it properly.
T Nuts and hex bolts.
You run the risk of distorting the basket, having air leaks and even if you do get wood screws in, one day you will have to get them out, not easy in that space.
Mind you, drilling the holes will now require a small right angled chuck.
If you are going with wood screws,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-X-25-ZINC-PLATED-HEXAGON-HEAD-WOODSCREWS-X-20-/150311527022 - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-X-25-ZINC-PLATED-HEXAGON-HEAD-WOODSCREWS-X-20-/150311527022
use some washers to take up the shank then do up with a spanner.
(for the two last ones, but I repeat, do it properly)


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It just is.


Posted By: Spesh
Date Posted: 12 April 2011 at 8:53pm
All the cabs should be re-done with T-nuts and hex bolts for the reasons stated above. Also when you remove the drivers a couple of times the original holes will become stripped if using would screws, so when you go to reload them the screws won't be able to get any purchase.

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Symmetry Soundsystem


Posted By: jbinks
Date Posted: 13 April 2011 at 8:18am
If you need to drill for t-nuts, I've found that on all the 1850s I've ever had to do this on, the top of the cab is usually quite easy to get off. If its just screwed on it should be easy enough to remove. You can then get easy access to the baffle to drill and t-nut (personally I prefer threaded inserts).

Trust me, opening the cabs up in a few months to investigate why the driver has stopped working or is making a nasty noise to find that the basket is bent and you've lost £200+ of driver for the sake of a few hours and a box of bolts is not going to make you happy at all!

Not to mention that you (hopefully) don't want to be using kit that you know might fail randomly at a gig and let the show down.

Cheers,
John


Posted By: Powie4321
Date Posted: 14 April 2011 at 12:07am
well today we have brought some 2 inch hex headed bolts/screws no nuts, this seems to have done the job properly and we hav managed to get all of the screws/bolts in the holes so its properly fastened basicaly we used a mini electric screw driver and a socket ratchet, all bolts seem to be tight fit there is no movement, and we have brought enough of them to do all four cabs, so hopefuly fingers crossed this does the job.


Posted By: jbinks
Date Posted: 14 April 2011 at 6:43am
I'm confused. Did you buy screws or bolts? If you bought bolts, how did you use them without (t-)nuts? Did the cabs already have the t-nuts fitted?


Posted By: Powie4321
Date Posted: 15 April 2011 at 12:18am
we brought sum hex screws they havnt got nuts, but they are alot easier to screw in and alot stronger aswell they are quite chunky fit just rite, and have managed to get all 8 in aswell so tbh m8 problem solved!!!!


Posted By: Spesh
Date Posted: 15 April 2011 at 1:04am
Originally posted by Powie4321 Powie4321 wrote:

we brought sum hex screws they havnt got nuts, but they are alot easier to screw in and alot stronger aswell they are quite chunky fit just rite, and have managed to get all 8 in aswell so tbh m8 problem solved!!!!


Yeh but the problem will arise if you ever have to remove/replace them. The thread in the wood that has been created by the screw will become weak or non existent. This is why using T-nuts is particularly important for heavy drivers like the 1850.


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Symmetry Soundsystem


Posted By: RUS
Date Posted: 15 April 2011 at 1:16am
idearly you need some of these with allen bolt heads. reason being is if you slip with a screwdriver you could go through the cone but a allen key wont.







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