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TDA MT121 vs Original MT121

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: MT122
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the MT122
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=59419
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 2:16am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: TDA MT121 vs Original MT121
Posted By: levyte357
Subject: TDA MT121 vs Original MT121
Date Posted: 18 November 2011 at 11:18am
Has anyone compared these yet ?

EDIT:Just checked plans again, looks like both are same horn length, so what's expected the difference ?


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".



Replies:
Posted By: phildat
Date Posted: 18 November 2011 at 1:51pm
whats the TDA MT Lev?Never heard of up here??


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Its just a ride.


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 18 November 2011 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by phildat phildat wrote:

whats the TDA MT Lev?Never heard of up here??


http://forum.speakerplans.com/simplified-mt121-plans_topic16270.html" rel="nofollow - http://forum.speakerplans.com/simplified-mt121-plans_topic16270.html

Originally posted by levyte357 levyte357 wrote:

For those of us who weren't aware they were here.

Originally posted by Three-Bee Three-Bee wrote:




img218/8403/tdamt121gk5.jpg


Originally posted by TDA-Audio TDA-Audio wrote:

mt121 my version











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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: ermita
Date Posted: 18 November 2011 at 8:14pm
might consider this TDA version...looks easier to build than the original versionThumbs Up
will Fane Studio12L be any good on this?


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 21 November 2011 at 5:57pm
Originally posted by ermita ermita wrote:

might consider this TDA version...looks easier to build than the original versionThumbs Up
will Fane Studio12L be any good on this?


With correct LMS settings and amplifier, Studio 12L might even hurt people in this cab. LOL
Be careful think 12L is only 200W.

Safer bet might be PD123ER, Fane 12MB, PD121 or few others..

Hint:Buy driver before building cab, work out driver hatch, so is easy drop in for your driver, or you'll be butchering hatch later.


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: ermita
Date Posted: 21 November 2011 at 6:38pm
Originally posted by levyte357 levyte357 wrote:

Originally posted by ermita ermita wrote:

might consider this TDA version...looks easier to build than the original versionThumbs Up
will Fane Studio12L be any good on this?


With correct LMS settings and amplifier, Studio 12L might even hurt people in this cab. LOL
Be careful think 12L is only 200W.

Safer bet might be PD123ER, Fane 12MB, PD121 or few others..

Hint:Buy driver before building cab, work out driver hatch, so is easy drop in for your driver, or you'll be butchering hatch later.

Thanks Lev, only reason I ask about the 12L is because I already have this driver...and I'ved been told that the driver is suitable to a hornloading cabs.Confused


Posted By: luton_soundman
Date Posted: 21 November 2011 at 7:01pm
fane studio drivers sound nice in hornloaded boxes, a fellow sp member has studio 12's in a.s.s hornloaded boxes and they sound great Thumbs Up

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Sound Hire/Sales new/used equipment.


Posted By: ermita
Date Posted: 21 November 2011 at 7:15pm
Originally posted by luton_soundman luton_soundman wrote:

fane studio drivers sound nice in hornloaded boxes, a fellow sp member has studio 12's in a.s.s hornloaded boxes and they sound great Thumbs Up
cheers mateThumbs Up


Posted By: TDA-Audio
Date Posted: 22 November 2011 at 5:36am
my version  angle  50x30
and horn 40x20
for good work in radial steck


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horns plans http://photofile.ru/users/tda-audio/


Posted By: tweeter box
Date Posted: 22 November 2011 at 5:44am
12L is a very good driver, nearly deafened a few people with them LOL

Lev that cab looks jus as good as MT121, but with easier flares to build, size wise looks same aswell

Couldve shown me this before i got mine! mightve got my prices down a bit Embarrassed


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PRECISION SOUND SYSTEM.

Feeding the peoples needs for Roots Music.

Strictly premium grade reggae and dub steppers from the early 70's to present day.


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 22 November 2011 at 9:36am
Originally posted by tweeter box tweeter box wrote:

12L is a very good driver, nearly deafened a few people with them LOL

Lev that cab looks jus as good as MT121, but with easier flares to build, size wise looks same aswell

Couldve shown me this before i got mine! mightve got my prices down a bit Embarrassed


Geezer, sure my original post on this was from 3x years ago. LOL

Have a builder who can make these for £350 per pair, 15mm standard ply, finished, wired, speakon'd,with internal grill over driver cone. Wink


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: skyhighatrist
Date Posted: 07 December 2011 at 3:29pm
what compresion drivers and piezo would be good for this design ? the same ones recomended for the mt122 or similar ?

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another e vicar


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 20 December 2011 at 10:56pm
the higher end cut off is 0.3khz less on the tda version...... than the original one..... and 3db down at the same point...

i.e. the original flare is 111.75db at 1.48khz
      the tda version is   109.8db   at  1.48khz

when u add and minus eq on the original to get a flat responce you can get it fairly flat at 110db before it drops off at 1.75khz

when u add and minus eq on the tda version you get a flat response up to 1.48khz......

hope this helps guys.....


Posted By: SBC
Date Posted: 20 December 2011 at 11:17pm
Originally posted by bee bee wrote:

 

when u add and minus eq on the original to get a flat responce you can get it fairly flat at 110db before it drops off at 1.75khz

shhhhhhhhhhhhh


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F.T.S.S.


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 20 December 2011 at 11:20pm
lol.... ok....

i say just buy a better comp......




Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 20 December 2011 at 11:53pm
Originally posted by SBC SBC wrote:

Originally posted by bee bee wrote:

 

when u add and minus eq on the original to get a flat responce you can get it fairly flat at 110db before it drops off at 1.75khz

shhhhhhhhhhhhh


OK, another one for the "Confidential file"  eh Saul..

LOL


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 7:51am
1.4 and 1.7Khz?????? What the f**ck are you doing. That box should be cut at 1KHz at most.

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Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: SBC
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 8:22am
Originally posted by levyte357 levyte357 wrote:

Originally posted by SBC SBC wrote:

Originally posted by bee bee wrote:

 

when u add and minus eq on the original to get a flat responce you can get it fairly flat at 110db before it drops off at 1.75khz

shhhhhhhhhhhhh


OK, another one for the "Confidential file"  eh Saul..

LOL




i had made it clear, injunctions and sanctions had been issued. 

LOL



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F.T.S.S.


Posted By: SBC
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 8:25am
Originally posted by MarjanM MarjanM wrote:

1.4 and 1.7Khz?????? What the f**ck are you doing. That box should be cut at 1KHz at most.

chill out matey 

there's no reason people can't at least experiment with playing paper higher. 


e.g. i know people who have crossed their MX450 and 600s at 3.2khz quite successfully and it gives full and clear response, with no ridiculous beaming. 




edit: typo


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F.T.S.S.


Posted By: paulus
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 8:37am
I also had my x over point around that area when I had mts loaded with fane 12ls
Same as when I had my mx 600s and indeed the cabs I have.now,i.reg run near on 400 per driver without issues cut around 160-180 ish

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TRENDSETTER SOUND SYSTEM


Posted By: Joe Grime
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 9:28am
Originally posted by SBC SBC wrote:

Originally posted by bee bee wrote:

 

when u add and minus eq on the original to get a flat responce you can get it fairly flat at 110db before it drops off at 1.75khz

shhhhhhhhhhhhh
 
Can you enlighten me on the +/- eq values and at what frequencies to get this flat response.
 
Thanks Steve


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 21 December 2011 at 9:31am
Originally posted by SBC SBC wrote:

Originally posted by MarjanM MarjanM wrote:

1.4 and 1.7Khz?????? What the f**ck are you doing. That box should be cut at 1KHz at most.

chill out matey 

there's no reason people can't at least experiment with playing paper higher.


+1

Especially with the multitude of drivers, and differing eq/processing people have.




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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 22 December 2011 at 11:52pm
ok the driver being used was the b&c 12ndl76, this driver does play higher than the pd123.......  

i was not running test with the 2" the test were purely on the 12" run as low as it could with no higher cross over. 

Marjan, may be you did not no, but using 1 12" causes a massive dip just over 1khz with the original driver set out by roger Mogal, when you use the 12" horn in the original cab i.e. 2 12" horns this gap is alot higher up, hence why it is not noticed with a 2" comp.....

If you plan to use the 12" horn and a 1" comp you could run into issues with the original driver choice, i.e. a dip in the sound just over 1khz. This dip is even worse with the tda version.....

this info is nothing new its been talked about before.... there is some sims done with differant drivers by a forum member.........

the question asked was is there any differance in sound between the original and tda version

in my view yes..... in my tests yes....... 

but with the right 12" driver and comp set with very carfull cross over settings, you should be fine.....

all i have done is built 1 normal mt12 horn and a tda version and run a few tests....... because its fun to play with speakers...............


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 22 December 2011 at 11:57pm
should of said ideally you want to cross over the mt121 at about 1.2khz.......

at the last fsp speaker meet, a few people said are u sure....... but agreed they sounded better crossed this low, any higher and that dip becomes apparent.......  even after alot of eq....


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 23 December 2011 at 1:53pm
So basically recommended crossover of 800-1000Hz is about right, isnt it? So i was right saying that going higher will just make it worse.
it might not sound bad to the ears having a small dip at 1.5KHz but still we aim for a flat response, aren't we?


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Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 23 December 2011 at 2:47pm
this is true marjan, the highest you would want to cross them is 1.2khz with a bit of eq....  I ran 1 a side last week crossed at 1.2khz with the 2 inch comp from 1khz.. sounded very nice...... in real terms of use ability there is no differance in sound from the 2 versions..... only in the higher region which you will not be using......... In my view they are the best diy 12 inch horn there is, and ive build a few of the other diy plans for 12 inch horns....


Posted By: SebP
Date Posted: 24 December 2011 at 2:14am
Have compared MT121 and MT-130 with same driver (RCF L12P110K), I think they sound similar in term of levels and quality (perhaps MT-130 is more sensitive by a little) but for sure, MT-130 goes higher.


Posted By: TDA-Audio
Date Posted: 16 January 2012 at 5:04am

\\\\\\recommended crossover of 800-1000Hz\\\\


650-800hz ,  4" VC driver   -))) 




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horns plans http://photofile.ru/users/tda-audio/


Posted By: levyte357
Date Posted: 01 July 2012 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by bee bee wrote:

in real terms of use ability there is no differance in sound from the 2 versions..... only in the higher region which you will not be using..........


So with "small" amount of eq, same drivers, the 2x could be made to play the same, yes ?


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"Who am I? I'm the guy who does his job.. You must be the other guy".


Posted By: MarjanM
Date Posted: 01 July 2012 at 10:28pm
Lev i dont think there will be much difference between this and the classic MT box.

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Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 01 July 2012 at 11:19pm
yes lev...... there is only a differance above 1.2k, but in most cases you will be crossing over before you would notice the differance between the 2......

from 150 to 1k they sound the same....


Posted By: Tweeter_Box
Date Posted: 16 July 2012 at 9:42pm
offtopic: what happens to the freq response and spl if you enlarge the driver chamber in the standard MT121 by say 40% ? keeping the horn the same


Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 16 July 2012 at 10:17pm
may help to smooth it out a bit, but at the cost of spl.....


Posted By: Tweeter_Box
Date Posted: 16 July 2012 at 10:35pm
cheers for that bee Thumbs Up


Posted By: benergy
Date Posted: 30 September 2013 at 4:43pm
Can Someone please send me a link to the original mt121 with curved flare. I cant find them anywhere and have been looking non stop. I can only find plans for simplified version.



Posted By: cravings
Date Posted: 30 September 2013 at 6:21pm
there was never one with a curved flare.

http://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=mt122" rel="nofollow - http://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=mt122

that's the mt122, an mt121 is when you only use a single 12" section, and whatever horn / driver combo above.`


Posted By: benergy
Date Posted: 30 September 2013 at 8:26pm
Ah thanks cravings, that makes sense. Just remove top 12'. Im planning to cnc cut moulds for doing the flare in fiberglass so figured the double angle flare was a better way to go. Superduper!



Posted By: bee
Date Posted: 30 September 2013 at 8:31pm
just a quick question Benergy, if your going to the trouble of making fiberglass mould, why not redesign it and make an even better horn. The mt is by far the best diy horn cab available, but could be so much better by using a round throat, and a few tweeks, this makes the mt less diy friendly. But as you are going to the trouble of fiberglass why not make a better horn, add a phase plug too....

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https://www.elements-audio.com



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