Mid/Tops to compliment 1850s
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Topic: Mid/Tops to compliment 1850s
Posted By: tendril
Subject: Mid/Tops to compliment 1850s
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 5:51pm
Which mid/top cabs do you guys recommend to compliment the 1850s?
I'm off to the wood shop next saturday to get my materials for the
horns. I intend to build 4 and have them in 1 mono stack. Musically I
intend to play house, breaks, dub etc (no Techno or similar music with
a sharp kick).
If I have them in 1 stack I should get down to 40(ish)hz right? What
power will I need to put in if I load them with the void 1000s with the
5" coil? May be looking at a valve amp as one of the guys has a few
quid and is biased towards valve.
Many thanks
------------- Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.
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Replies:
Posted By: tendril
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 5:57pm
ps. being a bit lazy here and can't handle the maths atm:
how many sheets of 8by4 18mm 13layer will I need for 4 horns?
------------- Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.
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Posted By: whitehousejamie
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 5:58pm
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2 x MT122s would probrably be best.
An infinite 8 would power 4 x 1850 horns nicely. For the Mid/Hi cabs, you could use 2 of the smaller Infinite amps, or the Kinetic range.
Jamie
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Posted By: loophole
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 6:13pm
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8 sheets of 8'x4', might need a few extra scraps for small braces inside and the battons on the hatch
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Posted By: tendril
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 6:35pm
Cheers fellas.
Any build photos of the mt122s coming up in the near future? (@rog)
Cheers
------------- Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.
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Posted By: Fushion Julz
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 9:27pm
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I built some MT122s just under a year ago...loaded with P Audio SN12MB mids and Beyma CP800Ti tops...
Some photos of the build here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/julz_angell/speakers.htm - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/julz_angell/speakers.htm
They sound fanatstic, but be prepared for the fact that they are heavy...Dom has built the mids as seperate 12" cabs and the tops seperate from those again...
------------- FUSHION SOUNDSYSTEM
http://www.fushion.org.uk - www.fushion.org.uk
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Posted By: tendril
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 10:29pm
Nice pics julz.
Did you cut access holes in the rear panel or did you make the whole of the rear panel removable?
------------- Tendril
A mistake is a mistake only if one learns nothing from it.
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Posted By: Andrew
Date Posted: 18 September 2004 at 10:41pm
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Great pictures. Would you recommend starting from the inside bits, or build the outer carcase first?
Also, would it be possible to take a pair of scales to the MT122 and give us an indication of how much they weigh?
TIA Fushion.
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Posted By: jerre
Date Posted: 19 September 2004 at 4:34am
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@Julz
I see you 've used the sn12mb instead of the sn12b, nice to know they sounds good in that design. The reson I find this interresting is that I'm first willing to build the x12's and lateron move foreward the mt122's (the 122's are just to big at this moment to compliment my subs).
What subs do u use below them and how much power do you put on them (since a single 12mb is for about an 200Wrms)
greets J
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Posted By: Fushion Julz
Date Posted: 20 September 2004 at 1:46pm
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tendril wrote:
Nice pics julz.
Did you cut access holes in the rear panel or did you make the whole of the rear panel removable?
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The whole back panel is removeable....
------------- FUSHION SOUNDSYSTEM
http://www.fushion.org.uk - www.fushion.org.uk
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Posted By: Fushion Julz
Date Posted: 20 September 2004 at 1:58pm
Andrew wrote:
Great pictures. Would you recommend starting from the inside bits, or build the outer carcase first?
Also, would it be possible to take a pair of scales to the MT122 and give us an indication of how much they weigh?
TIA Fushion.
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I cut up all the bits first...inside in 12mm ply and carcass in 18mm...
Then assembled each horn section onto one side panel starting with the baffle panel and the small ledge/divider beneath it. Then the next bits were the base (inside) lower and upper panels (although the upper one was not glued at that point) of the horn..the one in a single bit..and then assembled the 4 small sides of the horn followed by the top of the horn being glued and then the top and bottom of the carcass. Finally the last side panel was fitted.
As for weighing them, I haven't any scales to take the weight! My kitchen scales wouldn't cope, methinks! I would estimate that each weighs around 50-60 Kg fully loaded...More to the point, though, is they are just marginally too big to handle for one person....
------------- FUSHION SOUNDSYSTEM
http://www.fushion.org.uk - www.fushion.org.uk
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Posted By: Fushion Julz
Date Posted: 20 September 2004 at 2:20pm
jerre wrote:
@Julz
I see you 've used the sn12mb instead of the sn12b, nice to know they sounds good in that design. The reson I find this interresting is that I'm first willing to build the x12's and lateron move foreward the mt122's (the 122's are just to big at this moment to compliment my subs).
What subs do u use below them and how much power do you put on them (since a single 12mb is for about an 200Wrms)
greets J
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***Warning*** Mistype/misprint
Sorry, chap, got that wrong...should have said SN12B (not MB) for the 12" drivers...
They are 8ohm versions, so the cab is 4ohm in total. Each driver is rated at 300w (so 600w for the cab) and the usually get 1000w each from a C-audio RA4001. However, they have had 1250w into each with no adverse effects. The Beyma CP800Ti are also 8ohm but as there is only one, that means 8ohm per cab...They are rated at 150w and I usually power them with a QSC RMX2450 (about 500w/ch into 8ohm) although the gains are reduced, somewhat, as the drivers are very efficient!
------------- FUSHION SOUNDSYSTEM
http://www.fushion.org.uk - www.fushion.org.uk
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Posted By: SpeccyTwat
Date Posted: 23 September 2004 at 9:04pm
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We was gunna build some MTs but after the 1850s we thought f**k that!!! 9Anyway, we didn't want to be just like Julz!
If you've got the cash, Stasys3 - as loud as FK1 res 4, and clearer IMHO - but not as good looking.
Oh and they're 75kgs each
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Posted By: Andrew
Date Posted: 24 September 2004 at 8:57am
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Yeah the Stasys 3 are very nice. Just wondering SpeccyTwat, how do you load test the ice for all the 1850s?
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Posted By: Fushion Julz
Date Posted: 24 September 2004 at 11:54am
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Have to say, building the MT122s was harder and more time consuming than building the 1850 Horns...
I already had a pair of OHM TRS212 mid-tops (2 12" Mids and a 1.5" Comp driver) and these are almost exactly the same height and width as the MT122. Partly, that was the reason I decided to build those, rather than the MT102 design...
Since completing the build of the MT122, I have purchased another pair (S/H) of the TRS212s and so no have 3 pairs of mid-tops...
The reason I purchased the second pair of TRS cabs (cos I was going to build a second pair of MT122s) was that the price offered for the TRS (£500 each) with new drivers was almost exactly the cost of building the MT122s, but no building required!
------------- FUSHION SOUNDSYSTEM
http://www.fushion.org.uk - www.fushion.org.uk
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Posted By: PASC
Date Posted: 15 November 2004 at 6:35pm
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Easy cooling system for the 12" loudspeakers in the MT-122 or similars.
To avoid the "THERMOS FLASK" effect in back chamber and consequently compression due overheat I've used a simple system. I always cut out a 50 mm hole at the back removable panel just alined with the back vent of the loudspeaker and put between them a ring(s) with 100 mm diameter also with a 50 mm hole and the height necessary to make them fit yhem just between panel and loudspeaker, and after I see it fits toghether well line between the three parts a circle of strip of mass that never dry, as well as between the back panel and the back chamber horn so sealing all except the hole which communicates the bobin with the outside of the horn.
Also note that this approach will problably work with horns like Labhorn - necessary change folding putting back chamber to the back side of the horn, and with the new 15 Labhorn(could use a long 90 degrees curve can connecting back vent of the speaker to back side of the horn). No failure of the loudspeakers due to overheat I think justify trying it and certainly would be cheaper.
Paulo Duto
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Posted By: Timber_MG
Date Posted: 15 November 2004 at 7:45pm
I have been thinking about this a fair bit, but If the horn isn't
almost perfectly terminated (i.e. CIR>=1) there must be a compromize
somewhere. Then again, if the helhmolz frequency of that configuration
is significantly below fc, it might work. I just recon that the best
way is to mount the magnet facing outwards into the horn and still have
all the benefits of a good "pure" horn.
New 15" Labhorn? Care to elaborate?
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Posted By: tb_mike
Date Posted: 16 November 2004 at 1:13am
Martin- im keen to design a 15" labhorn replacement. Vd would have to be equal or more than labhorn though-TCsounds?
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Posted By: loophole
Date Posted: 16 November 2004 at 1:33am
if we're going to design a new sub horn theres no point making our kick horn fit the lab perfectly. if you're serious about this then maybe the first project should be put on hold until we get some rough dimensions for the sub
in what ways would you plan to improve on the labhorn anyway?
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Posted By: JD01
Date Posted: 16 November 2004 at 10:09am
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I don't think that 15" is the right way if you want to go down to 30Hz and below. Yeah, it will model with a 15" and it will look good, but the real world output (max SPL) will be below the modelled output.
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Posted By: Timber_MG
Date Posted: 16 November 2004 at 6:50pm
I think you wil have a tough time to come up with something for that
application. With very big mouths there are also other factors that
come into play other than what McBean predicts and you need a very
strong driver and something with a deep, stiff conical cone (preferebly
treated, and I don't mean waterproofed or dammar)
I agree with JD01. The driver if used properly isn't that bad for the
intended application (4+ groundstack) and to make a design really worth
the while, you'd have to come up with something quite out of the
ordinary. Given the cost and shlep of s big horn, one has IMHO (others
differ on exactly this point) a suitable driver. 15" -> Adire
Tumult. 18" Void/PD are good options and proven alternatives.
I myself am working on a sub horn, but intendd bandwidth is 43Hz to
160Hz, so a different target than the LAB (and due to cost a single
15/18")
Bigger drivers and other foldings will add significantly to the
dimentions of the cab if you desire equivalent bandwidth. IMHO, a horn
which is useable in a stack of 2+(with some eq) and in a stack of 4+
gets down -3dB to 40Hz might be a more practical proposition.
Doable, but it'd have to be really good.
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Posted By: tb_mike
Date Posted: 17 November 2004 at 9:38am
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JD01 - Theres no reason why a single 15" wont acheive desired output. Consider the RMS rating of a typical 15" being 600-800w rms,if it had the same power compression figure as lab12 at its 800w rms rating,it will acheive the same SPL.
I think that since the psycho sub dissapeared(?) that people might like something WSX extension type,that will reach lower than 1850 horns.
-Im not really bothered,since i cant build it myself,ive already got my 34hz home horn plans.
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