loading 1850
Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: 1850 and 186 horns
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the 1850 and 186 horns
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=63927
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 3:01am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: loading 1850
Posted By: lukehaze1
Subject: loading 1850
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 12:33pm
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When loading the driver to the 1850 is what is the best method? I heard t nuts and bolts were the best but how would bolts work? as you would need to take the top of the cab to gain access to the other side of the driver to hold the bolts while you screw them in. basic question but i wanted to hear from people that have loaded the befor how they done theres thanks.
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Replies:
Posted By: hmaudio
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 12:45pm
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m8 tnuts for the 1850 and id use them instead of bolts.. its easier to tip the cab upside down when loading so you dont have the weight of the driver against you ------------- Nottingham based cab builder. https://www.facebook.com/HMAudio-154352667920145/?ref=bookmarks This account is used by 2 people. |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 1:21pm
| ok so it would hold better if i simple used t-nuts and screws? |
Posted By: hmaudio
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 1:22pm
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tnuts and bolts yes ------------- Nottingham based cab builder. https://www.facebook.com/HMAudio-154352667920145/?ref=bookmarks This account is used by 2 people. |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 1:31pm
| sorry im confused. i thort u said use t-nuts instead of bolts? |
Posted By: Dub Specialist
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 1:53pm
yes as hmaudio has said (turn cab upside down) you got to use t-nut and bolts is the only way to go, what i do is i use the metal speaker/grill clamp upside down so it spread's the force/load over the metal clamp so the bolt doenst damage the mounting front baffle board and i use not the bolt itself only for final finish, i use the same size thread bolt just in case you slip and damage the head of the bolt..and i drive then all the way so the claws are tottaly flat unside of baffle board with a nice big handled screw driver for better leverage.... hope i make sense
 ------------- treat all creation with respect. For music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion! MUSIC IS LIFE 
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Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 2:27pm
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thanks. so all i need is the t-nut bolt in the photo above and that will hold it well enough once put into place? . what is a speaker clamp? what do you mean by this . i use not the bolt itself only for final finish |
Posted By: Dub Specialist
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 2:56pm
speaker/grill clamp
 ------------- treat all creation with respect. For music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion! MUSIC IS LIFE
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Posted By: Dub Specialist
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 3:09pm
 ------------- treat all creation with respect. For music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion! MUSIC IS LIFE
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lukehaze1 wrote:Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 3:26pm
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ok thanks mate that helps alot. much appreciated, what size are the t-nuts like 4 mm? |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 4:03pm
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Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 4:16pm
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A step by step on how to fit these? |
Posted By: hmaudio
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 4:52pm
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mark out where you want the t nut to and then drill a 6mm hole, put the t-nut on the other side and hammer it into the wood untill it is flush with the wood. if you really need it il do a picture guide for you but it really is simple ------------- Nottingham based cab builder. https://www.facebook.com/HMAudio-154352667920145/?ref=bookmarks This account is used by 2 people. |
Posted By: AM55
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 5:12pm
Ideally you want to install the Tnuts after you have cut the hole in the baffle for the driver but before you have assembled the cab. Put the driver over the hole, centre it and mark out the bolt pattern. Drill the appropriate size hole install the Tnuts as follows. ------------- https://diy-disco.co" rel="nofollow - Audio Visual Equipment Hire Service |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 6:27pm
| where would the speaker clamp go ? |
Posted By: wires
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 7:31pm
| Use allen socket bolts with the t-nuts, so much better than screw type bolts. |
Posted By: AUDIO HABIT
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 7:57pm
yep was going to say this ..defo Allen bolts,you would never get the tightness with Philips heads,let alone have the room to get to them
and i'm quite sure you don't use them clamps,you just fix the driver to the baffle using the holes in the driver and a washer maybe ------------- https://www.facebook.com/fxstageproductions |
Posted By: Twirl
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 10:16pm
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I'll also advise using allen bolts, torx would be even better! - I've recently switched to using torx screws and bolts, they are brilliant. I would also recommend that instead of knocking the tnut in with a hammer, you use a large washer and tighten the bolt until the tnut is fixed in position (without the driver in place). This helps to ensure it goes in straight, without taking chunks out of the side of the hole. A wonky tnut will have you in tears when you cross-thread it and the prongs rip out of the wood. Also, put a bit of grease on the bolt. If you feel resistance when screwing it in, stop and double-check you are not cross-threading it.
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Posted By: wires
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 10:18pm
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I'm sure you can get the tightness and a stubby screwdriver in there, it's just easier with Allen sockets. If the driver is in fairly brutal sub cab i would even go as far as putting a spring washer in, but not absolutely needed. Use stainless steel ones as well, i refurbed a few old cabs the other week and the old bolts had rusted on to the t-nuts and had to cut them out in the end; which took an age.
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Posted By: AM55
Date Posted: 25 February 2012 at 10:45pm
If you are bolting straight through the bolt holes in the basket you don't need clamps. ------------- https://diy-disco.co" rel="nofollow - Audio Visual Equipment Hire Service |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 26 February 2012 at 1:52pm
| also when connecting the driver to the speakon sockets is there a dominant type of red&white speaker wire you can use? jw . |
Posted By: infrasound
Date Posted: 26 February 2012 at 4:19pm
I just use old pieces of 2.5mm^2 speaker cable.
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