routed sides
Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: 1850 and 186 horns
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the 1850 and 186 horns
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=64218
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 11:31pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: routed sides
Posted By: lukehaze1
Subject: routed sides
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 8:10am
| i always thought routed out sides were the strongest way to build the cab but my carpenter seems to think that if he used buiscets and screws it will hold just aswell. However he is not a cab builder. i dont know any cab builders so was wondering if any could let me know |
Replies:
Posted By: Father-Francis
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 8:34am
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do you mean rabbeting , if so both ways are good if done correctly
------------- Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk |
Posted By: hmaudio
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 9:58am
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alot of people will argue a fully rebated cab is alot stronger but IMO a butt jointed cab is just as strong i not stronger ------------- Nottingham based cab builder. https://www.facebook.com/HMAudio-154352667920145/?ref=bookmarks This account is used by 2 people. |
Posted By: mykey-
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 10:17am
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basically the more surface glue area the better so take a rebate joint........18mm at the end, plus say.....7mm deep? so now we have 18+7+7= 32mm glue area instead of 18mm glue area some people rebate 5mm, but that's still 28mm glue area ------------- BbbBBRAAAAPppBBBBbgushhhhhhhhssshhhhhGrAbRAAAAAAPPPPPp = Dubstep |
Posted By: mykey-
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 10:21am
size 8 inch and a half pozi screw  ------------- BbbBBRAAAAPppBBBBbgushhhhhhhhssshhhhhGrAbRAAAAAAPPPPPp = Dubstep |
lukehaze1 wrote:Posted By: Tony Wilkes
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 10:24am
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Regardless of glue area the joint cannot be any stronger than the parent material, when the joint fails which gives? I have never found a glued joint to fail regardless of joint type it has always been the material away from the joint. Rebated joints are probably more resistant to axial loading but you should not have any of those in cabs that have been braced correctly. Tony ------------- www.forteaudio.eu - BMS - db-Mark Processors - Lexon (SAE) |
Posted By: mykey-
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 10:43am
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....even more glue area http://www.uploadhouse.com/viewfile.php?id=15695790&showlnk=0" rel="nofollow">  ------------- BbbBBRAAAAPppBBBBbgushhhhhhhhssshhhhhGrAbRAAAAAAPPPPPp = Dubstep |
Posted By: Wrek0ne
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 10:58am
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You can also make the joints much more air tight with rebates smothered in glue.
------------- Poll this! |
Posted By: Wrek0ne
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 11:00am
What kind of router bit do you need for the second one... That looks like an extreme ball ache!! ------------- Poll this! |
Posted By: hmaudio
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 11:21am
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got some old cerwinvega cabs with rebates just like that there mad strong! ------------- Nottingham based cab builder. https://www.facebook.com/HMAudio-154352667920145/?ref=bookmarks This account is used by 2 people. |
Posted By: mykey-
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 11:23am
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mitres
------------- BbbBBRAAAAPppBBBBbgushhhhhhhhssshhhhhGrAbRAAAAAAPPPPPp = Dubstep |
Posted By: lukehaze1
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 12:21pm
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yeh i want him to router the sides out because if he used buiscet joints i could see the cab just vibrateing to much and fall apart
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Posted By: Twirl
Date Posted: 02 March 2012 at 2:29pm
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A well built butt-jointed cab properly screwed and glued should not fall apart through vibration! However, as Mike pointed out, the more glue-able surface area the better... I also find rebating speeds up construction and produces a more accurate build.
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Posted By: shagnasty
Date Posted: 03 March 2012 at 9:50pm
I rebate folded horns using a 30mm follower and laser cut steel jig, the jig means I don't have to mark out my panels, I just axe up the sheets on a wall saw and them blast out the horn profile, assemble is a peach and it reall makes a nice job.
A cheat is to use a rail mounted festool router and CAD out you sides 1:1 and use the paper as a template, either spray mount it onto the board or make cuts through it with a stanley knife join the dots with a pencil...
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Posted By: ceharden
Date Posted: 04 March 2012 at 1:17am
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Both methods are valid. The key thing whether you're using rebates or biscuits, or even just butt joints is to make sure they're tight. Wood glue (PVA based) works best when you have the maximum surface area touching each other and cures with them held tightly together. An accurately cut and assembled butt jointed cab is probably stronger than one with loose fitting rebates and poorly cut panels. |
Posted By: Tony Wilkes
Date Posted: 04 March 2012 at 3:59am
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Chris's comments above probably cover the whole question. Tony ------------- www.forteaudio.eu - BMS - db-Mark Processors - Lexon (SAE) |
Posted By: Wrek0ne
Date Posted: 04 March 2012 at 11:10am
Good job my house mate has a Festool 1400 router then!!  ------------- Poll this! |