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HD 15 hole size? PD158

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: HD 15 horn
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the HD 15 horn
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=828
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 12:38am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: HD 15 hole size? PD158
Posted By: philip banyer
Subject: HD 15 hole size? PD158
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 9:26pm

HD 15 hole size.

Does any one know what size hole I should cut out for the PD 158.

The cabs will be made next week and then speakers to fit come later.

This means I would like to cut the hole for the driver but not sure of the size.

Does any one know where is the best place to postion the speaker plug in the cabnet?

regards to you all PBanyer




Replies:
Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 9:56pm
look at the PD website, you should be able to get the dimensions there

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Posted By: philip banyer
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 10:00pm
Yes I just double checked for the size on web site cant seem to find it


Posted By: Lasse Lukkari
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 10:05pm

http://www.papl.co.uk/asps/uploads/super/48.pdf - http://www.papl.co.uk/asps/uploads/super/48.pdf

found from the website



Posted By: davey t
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 1:33pm

WARNING

I used PD158's, they're great, but be careful where you drill your hole for your t-nuts! remember that the PD driver has a hexagonal surround, not round. Therefore, they only fit in one way. You probably want to wait til they come. I didn't, and now i have to hold them in with screws which keep on comming loose.

goodluck.



Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 2:50pm
Dom uses speaker clamps on his, although when he removed his PD154's he found one had slipped and torn the surround where it had been hitting the edge of the hole in the baffle.  I still think it's a good way of fixing them, I'm just going to add a couple of locating pins to sit the driver on to stop any slippage should the same thing occur to me.

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Posted By: loophole
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 3:02pm
i always roundover or chamfer the inner edge of the baffle hole with a router, that way you can use a small enough hole to have plenty of room for the t-nuts without the surround rubbing against the edge


Posted By: philip banyer
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 9:46pm

Thanks for the replies

The router idea with a smaller hole is good so the tee nuts have place.

+ More question

 

Do I need to cut the frequencies less than 40 Hz is there any frequencies I need to cut out?

Due to dips or peaks with HD 15 with PD158 to help the sound.

 

Also should I put a piece of Fiberglas’s in the back of the cabinet for the speaker


Posted By: Andrew
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 10:03pm

Yes, cut LF as the horn gets unloaded at low frequencies.

The peak will vary on the driver.  My P Audio units show a negligible peak, nothing as severe as the Eminence plot, I only measured about 2dB peak.  Anyone measured PD158?  Anyone else built PD158 HD15 in UK?

Put fibreglass behind the curved section.



Posted By: Dom
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 10:16pm

Still not sure how that driver worked loose, never happened in 2 1/2 years of caning them every weekend...

I'd definately wait until you get the driver.  Space is dead tight in the back of an HD15, and there really is no way to put the t nuts in once you've built the cab.

Locating pins and clamps sounds like a great idea...  The downside with clamps in any front loaded horn is making sure the driver lines up with baffle spot on...  Drop it over the pins and clamp it down - no problems...



Posted By: philip banyer
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 10:43pm

Does any one know if the Europower EP2500 amp would be any good to power 4 HD 15

The amp would be used 1or 2 times a year not often.

4 ohm bridge mode for the 4 Pd 158

 Amp rated at 2.4kw

Very low cost amp is rubbish or ok.

Thanks for all your help



Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 11:11pm

How are you going to get a 4ohm load out of it bridged tho? The best you could do would be running 750w a side @ 4ohms into each pair which isn't really enough.  or you could bridge the amp and run the pairs serial then parallel the pairs for 8ohm but thats only about the same power.  The EP2500 won't bridge to 2ohms.  Get 2 EP2500 and bridge them, that'll give the sort of power you're after.  What's your reason for going for the 158 over the 154, it seems like you're going to struggle to power them?

I've had the same problem and am going with the t.amp TA2400 which gives 1200w a side into 4 ohms andis the same price as the EP2500. I'm running the 154



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Posted By: philip banyer
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 11:27pm

I will use 2 systems normaly 2 cabs 4 and 4 will make 8 and then run on my DAP amp in bridge mode 1200rms

2nd system 4 cabs

parallel pairs 4+4 = 2 and another 4+4 = 2 and then serial them both of these I think this 4ohms and then use the EP2500 on this.

Does sound right or have a made mistake, if this is wrong then I will have to get another DAP amp (they way about 26kg)

EP 2500 not so heavy may be small power supply



Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 03 November 2004 at 12:01am

Do they do a 4ohm 158?  I was taking it that they'd be 8 ohm.

So 2 x 158 paralleled is 4ohms and you want to be putting at least 1200w into them.  Wiring 2 sets in series will go back to 8 I believe and the EP2500 will only give around 1300-1400w bridged into 8ohms running bass, and that would be for all 4 so seriously underpowered.  As I said, the t.amp may well be your best bet if you're on a budget, they come from germany, or try the Warrior xs2500



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Posted By: norty303
Date Posted: 03 November 2004 at 12:03am
Oh yeah and the PD154 has a higher sensitivity so you won't need to drive it so hard as the 158

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