Just completed my first ever build of 2 HD15's with 3 piece curves, got 2 more half built but will finish them over the next week or so. 

I know a lot of people previously asked about plans for the 3 peice and i found my self spending hour after hour sifting through the forum to find all the info i needed. So alongside my build pics i thought ide put up all my plans, CAD and cutlist etc. for anyone who would like them. 

I would also love some feedback as it is my first build 

so... I got all my wood cut at B&Q from my cutlist as it turned out really well. I think at most a couple of pieces were missing a mm but nothing drastic. Yes i went for MDF, but as a first build i thought it a cheaper/safer option and also its nice and easy to work with as i have no tradeskills atall. 

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Next i had all the angles cut by my friend who is a carpenter as i dont own a bench saw, jigsaw or router. It did cost me a few pennies but the results were really good. hopefully i will get round to investing in some kit soon for any future builds. 

I also had the baffles cut, access panels, holes for speakons etc. 

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Next i went about sticking the base, side and back panels together, i used titebond pva wood glue, and drilled pilot holes through the sides and counterrsunk them for the screws. i used 4x40mm crosshead zinc woodscrews

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Next i stuck the 3 pieces together by hand and and measured drew my guideholes where my tnuts where going to go. Its just a case of drilling a hole a little bigger than the t nuts thread/chamber and hammering the spikes into the wood. 3 pronged t tuts are better as you are less likely to split the wood close to the edge of the baffle hole. I used zinc roofing bolts 1/4" x 1 1/2" for fixing the drivers. these did stick out of the baffle into the chamber slightly but shudnt cause problems. 

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A small hole big enough for my wiring was drilled onto the baffle nearest the access panel so my wiring could be run through from the driver to speakons. Next i stuck the baffle in, followed by the curve, again i marked these on first in pencil so i could drill pilot holes and countersink so they could be screwed in from the side. 

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Next i wired them up. I tried soldering to start with but just ended up making a mess, im going to blame it on lead free solder and an ancient soldering iron but im probably just rubbish! In the end i settled for spade terminals and clips but they held pretty tight. 

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I was given numerous diagrams for wiring but just ended up using +1 -1 from driver to left speakon and +1 -1 on the left speakon across in parallel to the right speakon. Ive seen diagrams with +2 -2 linked between the two speakons but im not sure this is necessary. 

Next the top and corner piece went on. 

Then using some offcuts from my cutlist i managed to make a decent three side lip for the access panel to sit on. I tried for four sides but found it was going to be a little tight to get the driver in and out. 

Then i sealed the whole thing with silicon waterproof sealant before popping the side on and screwing in the access panel. 

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A few coats of tuffcab. 

Tested them and were a few rattles from the acces panel, but i added some of that rubber draught  excluder stuff along the edges and tighten them some more and they sound brilliant. 

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^^ no comments on the crappy topbox, im working on it.... 

Here are links to the sketchup file, and cutlist, plan etc. hopefully they work and somebody finds this usefull in their build. If you are building them though still read through all the forums and do loads of research as you'll learn so much.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eucofmzh77ycxpl/gsu%2015.skp

https://www.dropbox.com/s/usmc7nzd06dbspu/hd15.docx

Ide love some feedback as am hopefully building some X1's to sit underneath next. 

Cheers

Ben  

I have said a thousand time the ONLY way to do Speakons is solder and Hellerman sleeves, small Heat shrink if you must, but never crimps.

It also looks like you haven't flushed down the speakons, which IMHO is a very bad idea, either buy a disk (shoddy, costs money and requires recessing) or just blow 100mm hole and mount your connectors on a plate so they are recessed.

If you must use crimps (and really don't ever) at least wack and bit od PVC tape around them in case they come adrift/something shorts them....

+1 for a blow over with a 6mm radius cutter, really makes the cabs look smarter and save the edges in transit.

Also +1 for avoid silicone on builds at all costs.....

But as I said, Nice job!