1850 and 186 horns - Clear a few things up for me

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Clear a few things up for me

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: Plans
Forum Name: 1850 and 186 horns
Forum Description: Discussion / Questions about the 1850 and 186 horns
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=90700
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 10:13pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.08 - https://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Clear a few things up for me

Posted By: GwanStefani
Subject: Clear a few things up for me
Date Posted: 09 February 2015 at 11:08pm

Hi, planning to build a pair of 186 horns fairly soon, was hoping people could clear a few things up for me.

Firstly, looking at the plans and at a few builds on here and around the internet, are people screwing their drivers in from underneath ? This seems like it would be the easiest way to do it if you have your door on the back panel.

I was considering, rather than having the door on the back panel, to make the top panel removable. Or at least part of it. Is this a viable option ? I can't see that it would affect the sound too much, anyone done this before ?

Also wondering how people have gone about cutting the bevels ? I showed the plans to a joiner friend who said a miter saw would work, though looking at a miter saw I'm not so sure. Would a table saw be better ?

Replies:

Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 09 February 2015 at 11:14pm

The cut is called a mitre... it doesnt mean a "mitre saw" dont confuse them.
A table saw will do the mitre cuts for you with ease.
Or with a rail guide and a plunge saw the same thing.

Table saw= saw stays still you move the wood.

Plunge saw= wood stays still you move the saw.

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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.

Posted By: Dub Specialist Sound
Date Posted: 10 February 2015 at 4:57pm

Might be wrong cus havent had one,

plunge and table saw i use, but you can only cut mitre's with it? not bevels cuts...bcus its in a fixed ie bolted down? fixed postion

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Musical Roots Reggae Vibration is Life! for music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion!...MUSIC IS LIFE...

Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 10 February 2015 at 9:53pm

Both will do mitres AND bevels.

(Providing you can change the angle on the table saw and its not some stupidly cheap fixed table saw.... to which iv never seen one that wont)

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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.

Posted By: ape3435
Date Posted: 11 February 2015 at 12:01am

the angled cuts are called mitre and you can have the access panel.ontop, just take into consideration space used up by the panel support/baton

Posted By: Dub Specialist Sound
Date Posted: 11 February 2015 at 12:18pm

To clear it up, Miter cut (on the face on the wood) , Rip cut, Cross cut and Bevel cut which both can be Cross and Rip...

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Musical Roots Reggae Vibration is Life! for music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion!...MUSIC IS LIFE...

Posted By: Badger74
Date Posted: 21 February 2015 at 9:08am

I looked into having a top access and it's entirely viable, but you should look at how to do it differently to a standard screwing into a baton idea.

I created rear access panels with a 45 degree router cut out and the same on the panel itself, this allows pressure to put onto the access door without worrying about a baton frame inside.

However fixing it was hit and miss as you only have a small area to fix through and t nuts aren't viable in this way really

I then looked at a recess catch idea, similar to a flight case, but it doesn't create the pressure to fix the panel in place and hold it whilst your driver is trying it's very best to blow it off!

The other option was to have the whole top panel to the edges removable with longer reach catches going down the side of the unit and clipping to the top panel, this would work but you're a little limited when using plywood as it's weakest points are the edges...

Another idea is to have the access panel bolted down on top of the unit, if you're looking to stack them then fix an extra panel to the bottom of each stack with a cutout to compensate the top panel of the unit your stacked on top of...this will also allow the stacked units to be a little more secure in any sideways or front to back movement.

Overall though, do u need to worry about removing the drivers often? I do as I have limited drivers atm but different units for different scenarios...

Posted By: GwanStefani
Date Posted: 10 March 2015 at 11:15pm

Sorry, didn't realise people had gotten back to me, cheers.

"The other option was to have the whole top panel to the edges removable with longer reach catches going down the side of the unit and clipping to the top panel, this would work but you're a little limited when using plywood as it's weakest points are the edges"

This is kind of what I was considering, though was just planning to have the panel screwed in rather than attached with catches, though I'm not sure how great an idea that is. I really like the cutout idea though, will definitely give it some serious consideration.

It's unlikely we'll be removing the drivers too often, though it will definitely happen from time to time and probably more so as time goes on so I'd like to make it as practical as possible.

On a side note, speaking to a friend at the weekend he was under the impression that cutting the bevels in to the panels once they were already cut would result in us losing some of the wood. I imagine this would be the case if you were to make the cut too far in to the wood but maybe there's something missing, can anyone enlighten me ? Cheers

Posted By: GwanStefani
Date Posted: 11 March 2015 at 2:15am

Also wondering, what's the smallest space you could comfortably use a pair of 186 horns in ?