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Small,Light Sub?

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Topic: Small,Light Sub?
Posted By: rbarone
Subject: Small,Light Sub?
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 3:54pm
Hello & Thanks -  I'm trying to design / build a light (35# or so) compact sub to add under some line array tops.  Currently, we mic just voc & sax - the goal here, is to add some drums, bass & fill out the overall sound.

Nothing earth-shaking... small cub gigs with 100 ppl.  ..retro soul, funk music - guitar, bass, drums, sax, vox.

Since I know nothing about evaluating real-world performance derived purely from spec's, I was hoping to run my concept passed the crowd & get some feedback / insight.

The sub is based around an Eminence kappalite 3012LF 4, & Eminence's own suggested enclosure size /porting - it's "medium vented cabinet".

Here is my take on it -  built from 1/2" baltic birch, the finished cabinet would weigh 23#.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Kappa%2012%20Sub%202.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Kappa%2012%20Sub.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I've also included the links for the spec's from Eminence for both the speaker & enclosure.

http://www.eminence.com/speakers/speaker-detail/?model=Kappalite_3012LF_4

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012LF_4_cab.pdf


Thanks Again for any thoughts 



Replies:
Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 4:34pm
Would you not be better off with the 3015LF?.. its only an 11# driver which leaves you with 25# of timber to make the box from and get a much better bass responce and not have to over work the drivers wen you want to 'turn it up a little'.


Lovely design though....



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 5:09pm
MM -  That's a good thought...  I checked it out..

 I don't know if there's a smaller enclosure size that would work with the 3015, but the Eminence recommendations are 6.467 cu. ft. for the "subwoofer".  

They do show a smaller "woofer" scheme at just under 4 cu. ft.

I'm just a woodworker, so I don't know enough about interpreting the spec's to make even an educated guess...

So, the subwoofer, with bracing etc., works out to roughly 22.5" cubed & 42# (vs. the 23# of the 3012 cab).

Still small & light in the sub world..  too bad I can't decide if the trade is worth it, unless I build them both...

I'd consider basing the concept around a different driver, but the spec's on the kappalites work well with this line of thinking...  & I can buy Eminence wholesale, so it's pretty cost effective.

..and thanks for the kind words.  

- Rob




Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 5:31pm
also... the cubo15 design is a 24.5" cube. i have 4 of them with kappa LF pro's in them and without the driver a fairly easy 1man move... with a neo driver should be pretty easy to move around. iv also seen info on people slimming the width of the cab to 22.5" and it not affecting the output by more then a decibel and a half.

the cubo15 cab can out perform a 18" reflex from 40-100hz but wont play higher up with any clarity, hence them being a sub hybrid box. unlike reflex wont sound any good above say... 120hz ish.

so it also depends how high you wanna play your bass boxes.



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 5:36pm
...it also works out to an 8 cubic foot box.


sorry, i kinda doubled your "small" sub




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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 5:58pm
MM - I appreciate the feedback...  if I knew exactly what I was doing, I wouldn't be out here seeking advice.

I did check out the cubo, & thought to try to go smaller & lighter..

As in most things, experience is a great teacher, so I'll probably build out one of these proposed designs & see what shakes out.  

The fabrication part is quick & easy, because I have the luxury of a shop...   worst case, I can re-use the speaker in the next cabinet.  Wouldn't be the 1st time...

Anyone out there able to interpret & compare the spec's on The kappalite 3015LF4 small vented woofer enclosure vs. the 3012LF4 medium vented cabinet?

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3015LF_4_cab.pdf

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012LF_4_cab.pdf

thanks


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:11pm
...ok keeping with the cubo theme there is ALSO a cubo12! again being the same hybrid design it will have a better output then a vent box between 40-100 and SHOULD be more what your looking for.

why not build one of your boxes AND a cubo12 and see how you feel.
i believe the cubo12 is a 18" cube. THAT should make for a nice small lightweight sub for ya!




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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:21pm
MM -  That's a good idea.. most definitely, if the cubo 12 spec's allow for use of the 3012...  build one of each, A/B 'em, & build a 2nd of the preferred enclosure.

Can you lead me to the cubo 12 plan /spec's?

- Rob


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:27pm


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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:28pm
and works well with the 3012 to boot!!
save the image before i get shouted at for the link!




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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:29pm
*


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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:30pm
MM -  done..  many thanks, I will let you know how it all goes


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 May 2015 at 6:40pm
please do... AND we do love a good build log on here. everyone seems to be giving up on them as of late so it would be nice to see you knock together a few boxes with some picture AND your thoughts on the 2 boxes side by side.

Cheers !!


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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 17 May 2015 at 2:08pm
Originally posted by rbarone rbarone wrote:

Anyone out there able to interpret & compare the spec's on The kappalite 3015LF4 small vented woofer enclosure vs. the 3012LF4 medium vented cabinet?

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3015LF_4_cab.pdf

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012LF_4_cab.pdf


Well, if tuned to cover the same frequency range, the 15 will require almost exactly twice the box size, but will be very nearly as loud as two of the 12's (only one dB less, when driven to full excursion), so it comes down to a choice of fewer, bigger boxes vs more smaller ones to achieve a given output. 

Below are the output curves for one of each, sized and tuned to get -3dB at 40Hz, which takes 160l net internal for the 15 and 80l for the 12. (I've used the 8Ω versions as that's what I already had loaded in WinISD, from the pdf's you linked to they seem close enough to the 4Ω versions for the purposes of this comparison.) 
I suspect the 15 is rather less than twice the price of the 12 so that may be cheaper. However it would require an amp with higher output capability - 55V rather than 45V in the case of these box sizes/tunings (roughly equivalent to nominal power ratings of 375W @ 8Ω vs 250W @ 8Ω), so that may partially offset any cost savings from using the larger driver.

So, you need to decide for yourself exactly where your priorities lie - if that weight target from your first post is rigid, I don't think you'll achieve that at all with the 15 unless you really compromise how deep you take it. That's because sacrificing LF extension allows you to use a smaller cabinet. On the other hand, if you need more output than a couple of the 12's can give, then you're doubling the total bulk of the rig by adding more boxes to make them keep up with fewer of the 15's anyway, and probably increasing cost as well.

HTH,
David.



Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 17 May 2015 at 2:56pm
Thank you very much David for such a thorough & understandable reply.

That's a substantial difference...   I expected more out of the 3015, but wouldn't have imagined x2.

The cost to build 1 pair of either size is pretty close...  The 3012 is $135 & the 3015 is $155 USD  ..similarly, with power & lumber.

I guess if the goal becomes realizing the output of the 3015 from 2 pair of 3012, all in the name of weight savings, then the 3015's become a good bargain.  (half the build time, as well)

If it was only performance-based, the 3015's are the ticket -  I'll have to confer with the group to see where they'd prefer to compromise. 

Thanks Again

- Rob




Posted By: amlu
Date Posted: 17 May 2015 at 10:44pm
i have kind of small light subs on my system. 500x500x500 boxes made from 15mm ply.
92liters each.
front panels come off held with 12  bolts and insert nuts.
2x 12 inch beyma 12br70
and two used to be 10inch eminence but upgraded for 15 inch beyma sm115/n
vents done from 40mm compression drain pipe fittings, can replace them with other lenghts if needed.
used winISD for port dimensions.



Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 18 May 2015 at 2:30pm
Amlu - Thanks.. that's about the size I'm looking to work with.  What tops do you run with them?  Do you use them to DJ or for a band - & how do you feel they perform?  - Rob


Posted By: amlu
Date Posted: 18 May 2015 at 6:15pm
above got some 10 inch beymas for mids (simple reflex boxes too), got my old mid-tops (6.5+beyma cp22) but they may go for monitor duty, got some 1 inch compression drivers.... working to make some boxes for them recently. using for electronic music mainly. how they perform i cant compare much, too loud to test in my garden, and presumably loud enough when i take them out :-)


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 18 May 2015 at 7:23pm
thanks amlu - I'm prepping a build now for 2 pair of tops, but hope to get on to this sub build soon afterward.  I appreciate the input.  

I'm leaning toward a Cubo12 & a simple ported cabinet, both with a Kappalite 3012LF4 - then an A/B comparison.

My reservations come with the info provided by DMorison... seems a good 15 will double a 12.  The trade-off, being bigger & heavier.

Do you know the volume & porting spec's for the Beyma SM115 N?  It's about 5# heavier than the 3015, but if I could bring the cabinet in around the mid 4's cu. ft. (I think that's 120 liter area), it may provide the best balance.

Cheers - Rob


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 18 May 2015 at 10:23pm
Hi again Rob,

If you’re willing to spend a little more on processing and power (and accept a couple of other slight compromises), you can push the box size down a bit for the 15, if that helps (technically you could do it with the 12s too, but that doesn’t take away from the underlying relationship between the two in terms of output).

This relies on the fact that the driver is reaching its maximum linear excursion on rather less than the maximum power it can actually handle. So, that means there may be some headroom available (which you could “access” via a parametric EQ in a digital speaker processor combined with a larger amp) to boost what would otherwise be lower bass levels. This has to be done in conjunction with a high pass filter to prevent massive over-excursion if any lower frequencies are present however.

Below are the Output, Excursion and Processor response curves for the 3015LF in a 110l (net) box, or approx. 3.9ft3 tuned to 41Hz. Because of the boost put in to flatten the response, this would need an amp capable of 76V output or 720W @ 8Ω nominal rating – over the continuous rating of the driver but less than the commonly accepted “program” rating that is often used for matching amplifiers to speakers. As the actual impedance is a little less than 8Ω right around the frequency where the boost is applied, this would translate to almost exactly 900W (= the program rating for this 8Ω version of the driver) being applied to the driver any time a full strength signal at that frequency came along in your music. Note the max SPL (below 100Hz) is just as high as the bigger version I posted above, and it still gets to 40Hz.

The actual processor setting used to achieve this would be:

High Pass: 12dB Butterworth 45Hz

Low Pass: 24dB Butterworth 100Hz (this one can pretty much be varied to suit your tops without much effect on the driver at lower frequencies, so is just an example for the time being)

Parametric EQ: 40Hz +6.3dB, Q=3.

Although 6dB (and change) of boost looks like a lot, the fact that the high pass frequency overlaps it keeps the net result to a perfectly manageable amount.

Allowing for decent sized vent and bracing etc, this could be built into a total cabinet size of 500W x 600H x 580D (or 19.68” x 23.62” x 22.83” for the metrically challenged Wink ) for 15mm (5/8”) timber; I’m not 100% sure I’d trust thinner timber to be good for 120+dB @ 40Hz, at least not without a lot more bracing.

HTH,

David.



Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 18 May 2015 at 10:51pm
Thanks Again David.  Those are some creative numbers.  

The band has a dbx driverack, so I guess that would serve, but that's a lot of juice for a 1x15...  

Let me ask you this -  based on amlu's use of a Beyma SM115 N, I checked out the spec's & ran it through a basic enclosure calculator...  it spit out a sealed box of 3.789 cu. ft. (107.29 Liters).

My initial interest was in a sealed enclosure, because I was told they would be the easiest to EQ - they'd just need more power.  Do you agree with that sentiment?

Thanks, once again, & Enjoy the evening    ...if you're in Aberdeen, Scotland it must be near 11.

-Rob




Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 19 May 2015 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by rbarone rbarone wrote:

The band has a dbx driverack, so I guess that would serve, but that's a lot of juice for a 1x15...  
 
The DBX should have the capability to do the processing if you went down this route. The increased power is indeed one of the compromises I alluded to, yes, but it would normally be tempered by the fact that music (especially live stuff) tends to be very dynamic. That means ie the average level is much less than the peaks, due to the player's phrasing, gaps between notes etc, so unless you have unusually heavy bass for the type of band, you'd probably be fine.

Quote Let me ask you this -  based on amlu's use of a Beyma SM115 N, I checked out the spec's & ran it through a basic enclosure calculator...  it spit out a sealed box of 3.789 cu. ft. (107.29 Liters).
 
My initial interest was in a sealed enclosure, because I was told they would be the easiest to EQ - they'd just need more power. Do you agree with that sentiment?
 
The Beyma has less Xmax than the Eminence, so all else being equal, it will never put out as much bass. While different T/S paprameters affect how the driver interacts with the box to give its final frequency response, the bottom line for low frequency output (in a given cabinet type) is simply how much air it can shove around (think Caroll Shelby - "no replacement for displacement"). So, unless there's a very compelling reason (Cost/Availability/Weight etc) to use it, it would always be lower down my list of preferred drivers for your needs.
On sealed vs vented cabs, I don't wholly disagree per se, however I do think that the description you were given is maybe a little oversimplified, therefore less useful than it might initially appear.
 
If a driver has the right parameters to be flat to 40Hz in a sealed cab of a given size, then yes it will be less efficient than another driver with the right parameters to be flat to 40Hz in a vented cabinet of the same size. You would then need to hit the sealed box with more power to get it up to the same volume as the vented box. That's the part I can agree with easily enough. The flip side is that if you take the same driver and put it in both box types (of the same size), it will go lower in the vented box.
 
However, they're both going to be limited by displacement, so the one that starts out more efficient could go on to be pushed harder and have a higher max volume if they had the same Xmax. The Sealed box will (almost certainly) have a more gradual roll off below 40Hz, so if you need to tweak its response with tricks like I illustrated above, that is potentially a little easier, and it will also have a lower "group delay". Group Delay (roughly) describes how the output is delayed (as a result of the various mechanisms that cause the frequency response to be anything other than flat) compared to the input of the system, so a box with higher group delay risks sounding less "fast" or "tight" in subjective terms. Tricks like using EQ to boost the response to sharpen up the corner at the low end of a small box do add to the group delay, so that is one of the other compromises I referred to before.
 
Quote Thanks, once again, & Enjoy the evening    ...if you're in Aberdeen, Scotland it must be near 11.
 
You're welcome. Yes, was pottering about playing with the modelling and composing the response while half-watching a bit of TV so it ended up being a tad late by the time it was done.

Cheers,
David.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 19 May 2015 at 6:15pm
David - I certainly owe you a couple of pints for all the time & info...  

Given all the facts you've provided, it's really hard to argue against a 15" sub.  I suppose the task is to build the "best" of the lightest versions.

If I could possibly trouble you further (because I really don't know how to interpret the data, with regard to performance), what is your opinion of the 3 models here?

My speaker vendor quotes bassbox for optimum sizes for the 3015LF 4 -

- a sealed cabinet of 2.2 cu. ft. / 62.3 liters with F3 of 80 Hz  (about 400 mm cube)

- a vented box of 3.3 cu. ft. / 93.45 liters with F3 of 52 Hz - but they do not provide any info about the porting.  (about 460 mm cube)

Eminence's model calls for a vented cabinet of 3.89 cu. ft. / 110 liters with F3 of 49 Hz.  They spec 4 4"dia ports, 11.11" long / 10 cm x 28.2 cm  (about 455mm x 455mm x 530mm)

Cheers

- Rob


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 19 May 2015 at 10:30pm
No worries, you’re welcome.

I’d agree with the 15 over the 12, unless your logistical requirements really justify more smaller boxes – there are perhaps a few situations which would do that (if your band is a retirement project for a collection of slightly more senior types who want to save what’s left of their backs and don’t mind spending the extra bucks, for example, or if you play in some venues with particularly tight access arrangements, but I think all but the largest of the 15’s mentioned in this thread will be manageable enough in that regard).

Of the options to which you’re narrowing it down, I’d scrap the sealed box straight away. In your similar thread on PSW you did say you favoured LF extension over absolute output, so starting with something with such a high F3 would almost certainly disappoint you.

Of the two vented ones, they’re actually very similar in size – Eminence gives the net box volume as 3.5ft3 or 99l, I presume the 3.89ft3 comes from adding in the volume occupied by the backside of the driver and the ports. That means the biggest difference would be in what tuning frequency might be used to achieve the 52Hz F3 of the first one. There are two ways to achieve it however given that we know Vb: tune high to create a peak above the tuning frequency with a steeper, higher roll-off or tune lower to allow that part of the frequency range above the tuning frequency to sit a little lower – this results in a more gradual roll-off. Of these two options, the latter is the one I’d choose as group delay is lower and the more gradual roll-off should sound more natural to the ear. It will also be more conducive to manipulating the final response with EQ if you wanted to try that later, as you can’t safely apply any boosts much below the tuning frequency without drastically increasing excursion, which would in turn increase distortion and risk damaging the driver.

So, here are the output curves for all three, I’ve bothered to load the parameters for the 4Ω version as I see they are a little different from the 8Ω I was using before. Blue is Sealed, Red is the Eminence 3.5ft3/49Hz and Green is 3.3ft3/40Hz, all driven to 550W. All of the options keep Excursion below the nominal Xmax at this power level until you’re below 40Hz so that shouldn’t be a worry, whichever option you choose. The 40Hz vented box gives up just under 2dB of maximum output to the 49Hz vented, but I think that’s a small enough difference not to worry about it. It is still 4-6dB louder than the sealed box towards the bottom end of its useable range. The shallower roll-off from 80Hz down into the mid 30’s will be more amenable to EQ if needed, and if not EQ’d will definitely be tighter/faster. The second set of curves is the Group Delay (in milliseconds), sealed wins here FWIW, but of the two vented options the lower tuning keeps it lower through all of the useable bandwidth of the speaker, only getting worse below 36Hz.

There is one slight downside to the lower tuned vented option, it will require longer vents which will offset some of the difference in box size and depending on the exact size and shape of vents you use may even require you to fit a bend in them to avoid hitting the back wall of the box. This can be where using a shelf vent built in along the base of the box can help, as the sides of the box create a virtual extension beyond the apparent end of the port, allowing you to use a shorter vent to get the same tuning frequency. Unfortunately the exact amount you can shorten the vent by is the subject of much debate, so there would inevitably be a bit of trial and error involved – the good news is that building to the formulae from any website or modelling program will give you a lower tuning frequency than expected, allowing you to shorten the vent progressively until tuning comes up to the target frequency. If you use “standard” vent length calculations such as on the Eminence designs, you need to make sure that the vent is at least one diameter away from any of the walls or the back of the box to avoid these complications.

Regards,

David.



Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 20 May 2015 at 4:06pm
Thanks David - I had to read your reply 4x to understand it...  but I get it now.  I'll go with the 40Hz box.

I can't thank you enough for illuminating the differences each design presented, & putting in all the time to plot it out.

I hope the good karma comes back to you ten fold.

Cheers

- Rob


Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 20 May 2015 at 7:26pm
Originally posted by rbarone rbarone wrote:

Thanks David - I had to read your reply 4x to understand it...  but I get it now.  I'll go with the 40Hz box.

Yeah, sorry about that. I'd never want to talk down to anyone, and am too lazy to really explain things thoroughly at an entry level anyway, so sometimes I don't quite manage to pitch things right, or ramble on a bit. If you do want any more clarification, feel free to shout.

Quote I can't thank you enough for illuminating the differences each design presented, & putting in all the time to plot it out.

Well, everyone loves a bit of armchair quarterbacking, and I'm enough of a nerd to enjoy this stuff, plus having to explain it to others can help refine one's own understanding as well, so it's not like I don't get anything out of it myself.

All the best,
David.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 04 June 2015 at 3:59pm
Many Thanks to all who took the time to add something to my sub project - especially DMorison & mini-mad, whose expertise made all the difference.

Just to follow up, I haven't had the time to test out the subs, but the cabinets are built.  I'll post it all here for anyone interested -

First, my goal was to build something for a small group / small venue situation..  something as light as possible, small & pack-able..  a sub that the 110# female singer would have no trouble handling on her own.

I chose to build around the Kappalite 3015LF 4, using 1/2" ply.  The finished cabinet weighs in @ 22#/10kg.  I guess that'll be about 33# all said & done.

Since it was sort of a proof of concept build, I used what I had around the shop...  1/2" cabinet grade maple ply. 

Lastly, if anyone is interested in trying this for themselves, I can send you a sketchup file with all the individual parts & a cut sheet.

Forgive me if some descriptions appear obvious...  I'm including for any novice builder to follow.


http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/1x15%203015LF.png.html" rel="nofollow">

I pre-cut all the parts... with a table saw it's a matter minutes, but there are lots of straight lines & shared dimensions, so a hand held saw with a clamped straight edge would be pretty fast too.

Locate the ports on the back.  They're 4" x 10" total, so I cut 9.5" sections of pvc & glued them in place with PL.  Once dry, I used a hole saw to remove most of the material, then routed flush with bottom bearing bit using pipe as guide.

I then fastened the back to the bottom.  All joints get a line of PL, which is very strong & expands as it cures.  I'll pin the joints with an 18g nailer - for some that's plenty.  others get a few screws.

Since this is 1/2" ply, all screw holes are pre-drilled for #6 screws & countersunk.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%201.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%202.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

The bottom brace has to be trimmed to allow the ports to pass by.  Just trace & trim with a jig saw.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%205.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

The brace is locate about halfway & kept uniform with a pair of scrap wood spacers.  A small clamp across the width keeps the pieces aligned while I fasten with brads.

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http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%204.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I go through similar steps to attach the brace across the middle of the back

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%206.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

So far - the bottom, back & a pair of braces.  I add the sides -

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%208.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

use just enough adhesive to squeeze out when the joint is pulled tight.  too little starves the joint, too much is not any better... & it's messy.  

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%209.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2010.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I piece together the bracing.  It's clamped & plenty strong using PL, but I would do it differently next time - 

I would cut the vertical frame out as one piece & move to 3/4" material for the horizontal C-shaped brace, & use pocket holes to join the arms to the back.

The two frames are joined together with half laps - this would remain the same.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2010.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2012.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

The arms of the brace are angled back to clear the speaker.  Again, marking all the center lines makes assembly easy.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2013.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Add the baffle & the top, same fashion -

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2015.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I mark out, cut, drill route etc for the speakons, top hat etc.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2017.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I located the top hat toward the back to avoid the brace, but set the front pair of mounting screws over the center of that brace.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2019.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

The baffle is set back 1" from the front - it's trimmed out with some 1" strips of 1/2" ply to thicken the edge.  The trim is glued in with PL for added support of the baffle.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/B%2022.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

I use a 1/4" rounder over bit on all the edges, including the port exits & use some Duratex to finish.

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/IMG_1933.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

The subs were built to pair with these tops -

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/RBar1/media/Mini%201x15%20Sub/IMG_1930.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Once again, thanks to the folks here who made this build happen.  I wish I had some sort of performance news for you, but that will have to wait for now.

- Rob



Posted By: DMorison
Date Posted: 06 June 2015 at 12:57pm
Nice looking woodwork - even if you didn't know all the theory when you started this, you've certainly got the construction side sorted!
I wouldn't normally have imagined 1/2" would be rigid enough for a sub, but I think with the small size of all the panels plus your bracing you'll probably get by ok.
Are you relying on the small overall size to make them easy to pick up without handles?

Hope they sound as good as they look  Thumbs Up.

Cheers,
David.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 06 June 2015 at 4:19pm
Thanks David - Without reservation, I'll say that you did all the heavy lifting.  

I did put a surface mount handle on the back, & it feels pretty balanced.  If needed, I think I will add a pair on the sides...  I just didn't have any more laying around.

I am curious to hear how they perform.  If it's anywhere close to projections, they will be more than enough.  If it's an absolute debacle, I will try my hand at a little Cubo.  Either way, I learned a lot...

The woodwork is quick & easy because I have a fairly complete shop - I design & build custom furniture for a living.  

Thanks again

- Rob


Posted By: all bass
Date Posted: 06 June 2015 at 5:59pm
Looking good.

Now make some full grills for your SLA's to give it all a nice robust and uniform look.

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https://www.instagram.com/my_modular_journey/


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 06 June 2015 at 6:17pm
...just looking at the bass boxes, i would reinforce with a good thick chunk of wood where the tophats go in to the box from the inside. if its 1/2ich wood and you have recessed the tophats into it there isnt gonna be much for the screws to grip to and once those big tall mid-tops go up and the smallest of swaying will see the tophats ripped out and it come crashing down and hurt some one... or worse.. BREAK YOUR SPEAKERS!!!! ShockedShockedShockedShockedShocked

non-the-less, great build!! i would invest in side handles too as a single handle on the back isnt good on YOUR back, if you know what i mean.




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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: rbarone
Date Posted: 06 June 2015 at 6:52pm
Thanks...  

MM-yeah, I was thinking the top hats may be a little weak.  I located 2 of the holes over the middle brace & ran in some long screws, but you are right.  Same for the handles... 

also agree on the grilles...  



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